Caly 3.5 Super Blue

Handwrecker said:
While the handle may be pinned, the pivot is still adjustable. I believe you can remove the pivot screw and slide the blade out for cleaning/patina/etc. It didn't look hard on my Caly 3.5. :thumbup:
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+1,I dont understand the big deal about it being pinned if you can remove blade.
 
have yoou ever tried to put the blade in place on a lockback with only the pivot screw removed ? exercing enough force on the blade to align the pivot hole with the spring in place ?

if this is possible i apologize but i won't try.
 
All you need to do is zip tie the lock open and it's easy to remove the blade . All the knives made by moki are pinned at the handle btw !
 
so i'd have to apologize for being a dumbass and not thinking about this before.

now i need to hunt for one. :D
 
pwet said:
have yoou ever tried to put the blade in place on a lockback with only the pivot screw removed ? exercing enough force on the blade to align the pivot hole with the spring in place ?

if this is possible i apologize but i won't try.
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That is actually what CRK recommends for the Sebenzas, which are run to much tighter tolerances than most other knives. OTOH, the Seb pivot/bushing system carries the washers back into the handles in proper alignment, which probably isn't true with the Caly. I have not tried it, but since the pivot on the Caly models is fully adjustable, I would be surprised if there weren't enough play at the pivot end to make reinserting the blade fairly easy. The 64 Euro question would be the washers, but I think I can envision getting them correctly positioned without a lot of trouble (that's not a factor with the Sebs because of the pivot design).
 
I hadn't thought about the pinned construction being an issue with maintaining the carbon steel blade. I hope it's correct that it's easy to remove and replace the blade on the Caly 3.5. I hope someone will try it and report on exactly how it went and how hard it was to get back together.

I believe my order for the Super Blue Caly is very close to shipping at KC. My plan is to put Tuff Glide on the pivot area and hidden parts of the tang. For the rest of the blade, I want to let a nice patina develop. I may try to initially force a light patina to speed up the process. If the forced patina is light, it will still continue to develop a natural patina over the forced patina and end up with plenty of "character."
 
if i get one i think my strategy would be removing the blade, forcing a deep black patina with ferric chloride on the hidden tang and reinstall to enjoy a natural patina growing.
 
JNewell said:
The 64 Euro question would be the washers, but I think I can envision getting them correctly positioned without a lot of trouble.
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The Caly series (3.5 included) do not have washers to keep everything so thin. Not an issue :thumbup:
 
pwet said:
if i get one i think my strategy would be removing the blade, forcing a deep black patina with ferric chloride on the hidden tang and reinstall to enjoy a natural patina growing.
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That sounds like a good idea. Have you ever tried ferric chloride on super blue? I was wondering if it works particularly well with super blue?
 
not with AS specificaly but it will, very short soaks are better as it's very nasty on carbon steels and will blacken it in a couple of minutes. it took a very short time to get a completely black blade on my cpm M4 bradley.

it's been a while since i checked but the patina as stopped corrosion problems on the tang as far as i can tell.
 
pwet said:
not with AS specificaly but it will, very short soaks are better as it's very nasty on carbon steels and will blacken it in a couple of minutes. it took a very short time to get a completely black blade on my cpm M4 bradley.

it's been a while since i checked but the patina as stopped corrosion problems on the tang as far as i can tell.
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Did you dilute it or use it full strength? I've got a gallon of the stuff sitting in my garage but I haven't tried using it yet.
 
pwet said:
if i get one i think my strategy would be removing the blade, forcing a deep black patina with ferric chloride on the hidden tang and reinstall to enjoy a natural patina growing.
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or you can use vinegar, super blue patina's very easily.
 
i got it dry i followed the recommendations.

iirc it's near 500g granules for 1 liter water.
 
Mine came in liquid form. Pre-mixed, I guess.

Btw, my Super Blue Caly did ship today. Looking forward to putting it on the stones.
 
JNewell said:
That is actually what CRK recommends for the Sebenzas, which are run to much tighter tolerances than most other knives. OTOH, the Seb pivot/bushing system carries the washers back into the handles in proper alignment, which probably isn't true with the Caly. I have not tried it, but since the pivot on the Caly models is fully adjustable, I would be surprised if there weren't enough play at the pivot end to make reinserting the blade fairly easy. The 64 Euro question would be the washers, but I think I can envision getting them correctly positioned without a lot of trouble (that's not a factor with the Sebs because of the pivot design).
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Tolerances aren't the problem. It's the back lock that is the problem. With that, you must hold the backspring out of the way while inserting both the blade and then the pivot because it's constantly trying to push the blade out of position. It's hard to do with less than three hands. With a Sebenza or any frame or liner lock, you just slide the blade in, then can casually put the pivot in. There's really no comparison, and tolerances don't matter :). Actually the looser tolerances of the Caly 3.5 make it harder, not easier, because it means the blade slides around easier, thus out of position easier.

That said, I've done it quite a few times with my Caly 3.5. It isn't pleasant, but it's certainly possible.
 
I wish the Caly 3/3.5 platform appealed to me more. Really like the handle color, and of course the steel. But I've always felt "meh" about this knife :(
 
I just got my Super Blue Caly3.5. I held off on trying the Caly3.5 for this version and I'm very happy with the results. I was a fan of the carbon steel folder concept when Sal mentioned the possibility last year (?) and I think it was worth the wait. The knife may not be everyone but my initial impressions are good. The factory edge is very sharp, similar to a well done ZDP-189 edge. I'm going to give the Para 2 a rest for a while and carry the Caly3.5 for a while.
 
Just got mine today. It's my first caly 3.5 and I'm wondering why I didn't pick one up sooner. I wish I could have snagged two of these as it will be hard to use this thing with
no back up! I'm thinking of trying out a grapefruit patina... you've got to love carbon steel!

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Ugh, these pictures are killing. I have to wait until next week for my Super Blue Caly. It sure does look good though. Might have to pick up a back up.
 
goodeyesniper said:
I wish the Caly 3/3.5 platform appealed to me more. Really like the handle color, and of course the steel. But I've always felt "meh" about this knife :(
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I felt the same way as you "meh" I had purchased a Caly 3.5 VG 10 right when they first came out. It sat in my Spydie Pack with the other Queens :p until 3 weeks ago. I always carried a Stretch or Para as an edc. for some reason I took a closer look at the Caly, and had an Epiphany :D Its a small package with a 3.5" blade,slices like anything,also it doesn't seem to scare the loonies as much as the others. This new Super blue will most definitely become one of my most carried knives.
 
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