Can anyone here make this knife for me?

I would say at the very least one inch. If anyone has a Spyderco SPOT, or La Griffe or other finger hole knife, we could go from there. I think if you get the holes down, everything else will fall into place.
I also had B Finnigan make it a Wharncliffe. I think it is a more useful knife for SD and utility than the skinner type blade. Also, in my opinion, more aesthetically pleasing to the eye. I am just hoping the Wharncliffe is more like the blade style of a HAK rather than a sheepsfoot. I forgot to specify that with B Finnigan.
 
I just printed out the picture you posted and then scaled it according to a credit card. The finger holes are 3/4" and crowned to roll the edge a bit. The blade style is exactly like the one in the picture.

I did find a 1 1/2 piece of 1/8" 1084 that is just big enough to do one knife.
 
The blade is fine. I still like the original look as well.
How is the fit? I am concerned about the holes being to small.
Any pics?
 
The one I made has to be about the right size. I know I wouldn't want anything bigger on my key ring personally. Anyway the final of what the one I did looked like this. Sitting here by a Canadian penny to give you a size compare. I went ahead and anodized it for my nephew. Ended up having to run to Lowes to get a 1/2" drill bit. It was the biggest one they had here at ours. Believe it or not drilling these two holes in this .090 titanium may have ruined that bit. I resharpened it but the jury is still out on whether it will still cut good or not. It got pretty hot.

I think its safe to say this is the last ti I'll be making a cutting tool out of for a while. :D

STR
 
i thought this would help, i did it as close as i could to what i beleve are the messurments.

valor sizes..jpg


this is all based on a finger hole size of 1 in.
 
That's a great diagram. I could also try contacting the ownerof the knife about further details on it. He is at another forum and I am not sure if he is a member here. He will be quite surprised, I'm sure, to see his knife being well analyzed and duplicated here.
 
it looks like its made from 1/8". if your inersited i will order some 2" O1 and see if i can make some. have other people posted pictures of there progress on this knife because i cant see any pictures
 
I'm interested for at least one. Could you make it with a HAK style wharncliffe? Also, what's your price estimate?
 
Based on your measurement there JT the original is significantly longer than the one I did. Mine is 1 and 3/8" on the measurement you have as 2" and its 2" where you have 3 and 3/4". I made mine with a tanto type tip that is thicker on the tip edge. I modified it on purpose though. I had some trouble copying it exactly. I figure its patented or patent applied for anyway.

I couldn't imagine it was that big though if its something that will go on a key ring. Maybe its not for a key chain or ring and I just figured it was?? Does the original come with a sheath of some kind maybe? I guess it could be a neck knife now that I think about it.

STR
 
im not familer with "HAK style wharncliffe" could you explane thi style or show some photos. what do you think would be a fair price.
 
What I am calling a HAK style wharncliffe would be a wharncliffe where the spine of the blade initially is parallel with the edge then the spine tapers to meet the edge at a 45 degree angle so the tip stays sharp, but you still have thatstraight edge. Difficult to explain, but you can get a better idea of the blade shape at hideawayknife.com.
Steve, I'll ask the owner of the knife if there was a sheath. I'll take a look at his EDC to see if there was a sheath there as well. Also, Steve, it's just an assumption, but even though the knife is called a wallet knife, I am guessing it originally wasn't the size of a credit card. The 2 fingerholes just won't fit on something as small as a credit card. Just my opinion though.
Price point would depend on how difficult this is too make. Since we are shootingfor quality steel like O-1. I would say between $50 and $75 to keep in line with knives like the Spyderco SPOT and Swick.
 
i was also thinking around 50-75. this is going to be a very fun project. i can order the steel and get started. i would love to get one to. i dont think its panteted because its not to popular. also if is patented there will be a paten mark on the blade. i got ya, i know know what you want in a edge style, let me see what i can come up with. but im gessilg you want to go with the same type of shape. because its going to be made from O1 i think i should put an rust resistent etch on the handle section so it would not get rusted. or i could dip the handle in rubber so that it has more grip. o ya and one more thing, i think the wood its on is oak and it has and average ring size of some where around 1/8 of an inch so you can see that my gess with the size of the knife is corect
 
here are some other ways we could do the blade.

1.
valor1.JPG


2.
valor2.JPG


3.
valor3.JPG


4.
valor4.JPG



let me know if any one of these are the style your looking for.
 
I'll take your word for it when it comes to the dimensions. Just going by the hole sizes and the length and width, it sounds about right. I am not concerned if it doesn't fit in a wallet because I was going to keep it on a belt/neck sheath. The O-1 will be good for neck carry to help prevent rust from sweat.
I'll take one with the #2 blade style. My favorite, especially for knives like these. I think many will like the #1. I think etching will be a better option. I am not fond of rubberized handles. For me it cheapens the knife. Holes for paracord wrapping is another option.
There were some members at another forum that I am active in showing some interest in this knife as well.
Do you want me to make an interest thread over there to see if anyone wants to order? I can link them to this thread and have them contact you.
 
ya, let me know. i can order some steel monday. what kind of grind do you want. i think a full convex grind would be killer on this blade
 
I'll just post the thread. It'll be up to my fellow members at that forum to get in touch with you. You know how it can be. Some may say they are interested, but not jump on it when the oppurtunity arises. Full convex will will a nice.
I'm 100% in on this one.
 
because i dont have a mill i will need to round up a 1" bit. also i might not do the slot that runs down the side, but i was thinking about putting a hole at the bottom so you can tye some para cord to it if you want. the sheith would be the hard kydex with a belt loop.
 
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