Can anyone here make this knife for me?

I have just a little finish grinding left to do and it will be done. Made from 6ALV4 Titanium.
(Updated photo of finished knife)
ti2002-web.png

Weighs exactly 1 oz.
titanium005-web.jpg
 
If you guys plan on making a few of these, I would be very interested in purchasing one. How much do you think you would sell them for?
 
I will be ordering some 2" 1084 and will be making a few of the other types w/o the slit. After this one I don't want to screw around with Ti anymore. Shoot me an email if you are interested.

I have a small 1 1/2" chunk of 1/8 1084 and I will crank out one before tomarrow night.

That tear jerker looks like an interesting lathe project. May have to give it a try. Kinda adds a new twist to the term "engagement" ring.:eek:
 
The holes are 13/16" and I can get my finger up to the second knuckle. I did slide it up all the way but it did not want to come off real easy. After I finish polishing the inside of the holes and work the edge a bit more it will be ready to go.
 
I'm sure this would be an intersting story if you could let us know how you made all those grinds in the Ti. That looks amazing!

I'm a little worried about the holes though. The knife should be able to fit all the up past the second knuckles, not just the first.
 
JTknives. One option would be is instead of finger holes, you can have the holes together having a shape like a capsule like the HAK. It may provide a better fit, but still keep the retention capabilities. Just throwing that out there as a possiblity.
 
I just read about the Fred Perrin Shark on a different forum. The finger-hole on the shark measures just under 1" to about 1", and according to the members at that forum, the holes are fine except for those with gloved hands or have fatter than average fingers.

Also, I am reconsidering the blade shape. Look at other knives such as this like the Spyderco SPOT, Fred Perrin Shark and La Griffe, and the HideAway Knife. There is a shallow enough angle so that the thumb can be placed at the spine of the blade comfortably allowing more stability. Do you guys think that the #2 pic will allow that? Or should #1 be more ideal.

Also, at another forum, it was asked if some file work could be placed along the edge of the spine where your thumb would go for improved grip?
 
Thats an excellent job copying it B. Looks really close to the same as the original to me. I'd still like to know the originals final measurements. I'd be interested to know what you used to cut out the long cut on that for the slot. I have a mill machine but its so new that I don't have a lot of the needed cutters or even know their names to order them.

STR
 
so if people are making these allredy should even start. i mean i would love to have this project and make them for people but it seames that a lot of people are wanting to do it.
 
Thanks! I used a small .125 high speed carbide cutter. A friend of mine is a tool grinder for Boeing so he gets me alot of end mills, HS cutters and lathe chisels. They can only re-sharpen them twice and then they have to be recycled. Sometimes they accidently fall into his pocket before they hit the recycle box;) . He does an absolutely incredible job at sharpening tool bits so these baby's are better then brand new. He gave me some cobalt steel blanks the other day to grind my own cutters.

Death's Head, I can always grind out the holes past 7/8, there is not enough beef to take it out to 1". I have fat sausage fingers and my middle finger is only 3/4" wide. I hate to have to re-polish the holes again but a good fit is important.
 
o and yes i have also done some drawing combining the 2 holes to make one big hole. it looks cool but i did not post it because i thought you wanted the 2 holes
 
B Finnigan, if you can take out as much as you can while keeping comprimising the design's integrity, that would be appreciated. Fred Perrin's Shark hasa hole just under 1inch, and I assume that fits most hands and mine are just average size.
JTknives, I still like #2 best.
 
Perhaps the slot is to run webbing through. A loop of it would make it easier to draw and give a better purchase when using it.

-LT
 
Greetings LT, nice insight. Interested in getting one?
LT is a fellow member of mine at the other forum I am part of.
 
thats great, i would love to do this. i keep thinking that the hole should be 1" because when you go to grab this knife you dont want to have to work your fingers into the holes befor you can use it. your fingers should just slip in. now did you want #1 or number 2#. ya your can pass out my email, its JT@JTcustomSPAMKnives.com. remove the word spam from my email address befor using it, i put it there so it cant be used by spam robots surfing the web. i will be ording the steel today so does O1 still sould good.
 
JTknives, I would like the blade with a #2. I agree with you with the 1" holes, but I wouldn't go any bigger. HAKs prefer the blades a perfect fit to ensure maximum retention. I understand what you are talking about when you talking about threading your fingers through the holes.
I'll pass out your email to my thread.
 
I am guessing it isn't going to be happening because JTknives expressed that it is too difficult to be worth putting in. Holes requires simple drilling, but that slot, I assume, takes so much more labor to put in.
 
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