Can anyone recommend a really good survival knife and a tactical knife that are both highly resistant to corrosion?

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I'm a big fan of 14C28N. As others have said, it is one of the toughest stainless blade steels. It has excellent corrosion resistance. Edge retention is decent. While the total edge life is closer to AUS-8, I feel that the quality of the edge is better over the course of that life. It is also one of the friendlier steels to sharpen.

Price is another benefit. I haven't tried the Joker knives mentioned above but I've seen them in the ballpark of $100. If you want to spend more than $150, you might just skip production knives altogether. I'd recommend checking out the fixed blade section of the KnifeMaker's Market here on the Knife Exchange. You might also reach out to @David Mary .

BTW, one of my favorite budget fixed blades in 14C28N is the Ruike Jager. The beautifully stonewashed blade is just shy of 4.5" and the handle is more comfortable than it looks. The sheath is only okay but it comes with an excellent belt attachment that lets you quickly change orientation with a locking tab. You can find these at dealers for like $70-80. Here is a picture of mine. (LMK if you'd like to see pics of stuff I've picked up from makers on the exchange, including David.)

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Ive got this Ruike Jager also and money for money this is the best value and quality knife I have out of all my brands. Including some big name brands!

Agreed. Great knife regardless of price. The fact that it’s inexpensive is icing on the cake.
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Good info. Isn't 2017 around when the Elite model showed up? I almost think they just kept the Taiwan plants operational, labeled them "Elite" and made a lower-tier Chinese version that was given the regular name. Just speculating, but it "feels" true.

So many great knives being suggested that I hadn't seen before, I wonder how OP feels about the options.
The Elite versions were introduced earlier than that. I know I had mine in 2014. It gained some popularity because it was offered in both a serrated and plain edge version.
For quite some time both the standard Pup and Elite Pup were being made in Taiwan.
The change to China manufacture for the Pup was rather surprising, and clearly a cost reductuon move, and unfortunately a drop in quality as well.
 
Since the OP wanted high corrosion resistance, the recommendations for AUS-8 have been puzzling. While AUS-8 is stainless and its resistance isn't terrible, it is mediocre and I've seen it rust.

AUS-10 is just AUS-8 with more carbon. While that helps it to hold a better edge, it hurts a little on corrosion resistance. My experience with AUS-10 is limited and while it at least seems more stainless than D2, I wouldn't recommend it here.

I know everyone has different circumstances and preventative maintenance can go a long way, but spending time in high humidity and having corrosive sweat makes resistance important to me. The way I see it, corrosion resistance is a hedge. As the hedge gets higher, the need for care or the chance of spotting gets lower. At S35VN levels, I can carry a fixed blade with satin finish IWB during the worst parts of summer without issue. Although I generally don't, I can largely neglect steels like 9Cr18Mov, 14C28N, and BD1N without consequence.
The term "high corrosion resistance" is relative.
I think the OP is simply refering to stainless steels as opposed to carbon steels.
There are few if any stainless steels that I have seen that didn't show "some" rust.
While some steels like H1 ad others do excel, for the most part to me "corrosion resistance" is not an absolute.
 
The term "high corrosion resistance" is relative.
I think the OP is simply refering to stainless steels as opposed to carbon steels.
There are few if any stainless steels that I have seen that didn't show "some" rust.
While some steels like H1 ad others do excel, for the most part to me "corrosion resistance" is not an absolute.

Like I said, we all have different circumstances and different hedges will work better for those circumstances. I listed some of the favorites on my general neglect list. Having more hedge than you need isn't necessarily bad. For instance, M390/20CV and S110V are a tier up from my general neglect list and there is at least some novelty in that. MagnaCut is higher still, hedges high enough that nobody can see my house. 😜

In case that's not enough, I do have a custom in LC200N. Again, I probably don't need that level of corrosion resistance but I look at this way. If I were to say, fall into a sink hole or something during a woodland excursion, archeologists could find my decrepit skeleton thousands of years in the future with that blade still intact. 💀
 
Why AUS-8 specifically as opposed to the modern AUS10? Was thinking about getting an SRK-C in the 10.
Didn’t realize they were offering it in AUS10. Thought it was only 3V and SK5 these days. Haven’t really been paying as close attention to CS as I used to.
 
Haven’t read it all, have you decided what you will carry? I think any Buck fixed blade in 420 HC would be a good all around knife for chores, the Buck 105 Pathfinder seems a good size, or a Buck Vanguard. I have to Be honest I couldn’t say which would be a good survival knife for chopping, so the BUCK 124 would be a compromise. One reader on BF used it for everything. Good luck in your search, and have fun on your trip.
 
Sorry, I had to go back to work, but I did say earlier that I decided upon the Cold Steel SRK and SOG pup. I like those options, and I think they will work out fine for me. Thanks.
Sorry I messed this reply, glad you found something, let us know your experiences on this trip. Do you have time to do some experimenting before your trip? I have been looking at the Buck 105 lately, like I need another knife. :) Just curious, take a stainless Mora too, I would love to see if just by it’s size would it be a good for small tasks. Have fun.
 
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Not sure about the current batches of super steels, but traditionally when corrosion resistance was the main concern, then either 420 or 440a were the "go to" steels so I would look for something with one of those. 440a has a Chromium content of 16-18%, and is going to have good corrosion resistance for a knife steel as well as being fairly tough.

But again, there may be one of the new stainless formulations that would be better, I don't know. I guess this would depend on your budget as well
 
Didn’t realize they were offering it in AUS10. Thought it was only 3V and SK5 these days. Haven’t really been paying as close attention to CS as I used to.
I don't think they ever make SKR in AUS10. If it is "10", it may be the VG-10 layered. Cold Steel mostly offer AUS-10 in small fixed blades and folders

AUS-10 is quite rust resistance. I spent a few days in heavy rain with outdoor some buddies, their carbon and D2 blades all get rust, mine is doesn't get anything.
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I wish they make medium size outdoor knives in AUS-6 again. Similar composition to AEB-L, stainless and tough, both of them get bad rep from Chinese crap production and the emphasis only on wear resistance from the early 2000s, which brought craze to fragile super steels. Also people mistook availbility for low quality, therefore made it seemed even more cheap.
 
Why AUS-8 specifically as opposed to the modern AUS10? Was thinking about getting an SRK-C in the 10.

I don't think they ever make SKR in AUS10. If it is "10", it may be the VG-10 layered. Cold Steel mostly offer AUS-10 in small fixed blades and folders

AUS-10 is quite rust resistance. I spent a few days in heavy rain with outdoor some buddies, their carbon and D2 blades all get rust, mine is doesn't get anything.
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I wish they make medium size outdoor knives in AUS-6 again. Similar composition to AEB-L, stainless and tough, both of them get bad rep from Chinese crap production and the emphasis only on wear resistance from the early 2000s, which brought craze to fragile super steels. Also people mistook availbility for low quality, therefore made it seemed even more cheap.
Yeah it seems the SRK-C is only available in SK-5, while the full size can be had in SK-5, 3V, or San Mai.
 
I don’t understand the concern over rust on a using blade. The light amount of staining That you would see over a couple of days can be easily wiped off.

n2s
I don't get it either. I live ON the coast in the Pacific Northwest. If it ain't salt water it's rainwater, you can't keep either of them out of your life (or sheath) October thru June.

I never have problems with rust. On anything. I do have Tuf Cloth from Sentry Solutions and wipe stuff down with that time to time, but usually I neglect blades.

The 420HC that Gerber uses in the Strongarm is very corrosion resistant. Admirable, really. Whatever that coating is on the blade helps too. Ceramic of sorts I think.

I'm not a Cold Steel fanboi, but I have to hand it to the San Mai stuff they kick out. The 420J2 they use for the "wrap" really doesn't corrode. It's pretty cool.

"A couple days" isn't going to do anything to your knife. A couple weeks isn't either. Trust me, I've neglected my stuff for months. I'm a horrible knife owner sometimes.

Wipe your knife off on your pants before sticking it back in the sheath. Really all it takes.
 
I don't get it either. I live ON the coast in the Pacific Northwest. If it ain't salt water it's rainwater, you can't keep either of them out of your life (or sheath) October thru June.

I never have problems with rust. On anything. I do have Tuf Cloth from Sentry Solutions and wipe stuff down with that time to time, but usually I neglect blades.

The 420HC that Gerber uses in the Strongarm is very corrosion resistant. Admirable, really. Whatever that coating is on the blade helps too. Ceramic of sorts I think.

I'm not a Cold Steel fanboi, but I have to hand it to the San Mai stuff they kick out. The 420J2 they use for the "wrap" really doesn't corrode. It's pretty cool.

"A couple days" isn't going to do anything to your knife. A couple weeks isn't either. Trust me, I've neglected my stuff for months. I'm a horrible knife owner sometimes.

Wipe your knife off on your pants before sticking it back in the sheath. Really all it takes.

I like patina, but I know it's a concern to some people.
Do you get blood and guts on your steel?

I'm in Wisconsin, and corrosion is of no concern to Me, personally. It's good to know PNW isn't so harsh eifher.
 
While writing for another post, I remembered the Steel Will brand. The Steel Will 800 is basically a SRK in AUS8, also made in Taiwan. Probably made in the same factory as the Cold Steel.
 
If you want a true salt water capable knife I’d look into something with Vanax Super Clean, Magnacut, or LC200N blade steel. I know Quiet Carry makes some knives they claim are 100% corrosion resistant and they use those steels. “Salt water approved”!
 
I like patina, but I know it's a concern to some people.
Do you get blood and guts on your steel?

I'm in Wisconsin, and corrosion is of no concern to Me, personally. It's good to know PNW isn't so harsh eifher.
Yeah, I'm a patina guy myself. Not only is it of no concern to me, I admire the unique character that it brings to a piece.

I get blood and guts on the hunting knives. One is the White River Sendero Pack in S35V and a Bucklite Max in Buck's 420HC.

Neither have blood and guts on them long enough to even stain, but if I forgot one bloodied up in the shop for a couple days I wouldn't worry a bit about them.

Even the cheap fishing knives we use never have a corrosion issue, and they're immersed in salt water and blood the whole dang time.

The PNW gives you some harsh stuff now and then, but it's absolutely nothing that threatens any of my cutlery at all.
 
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Shameless self promotion (thread needs more pics anyway). This is a custom version of the S.A.F.E. System Knife. Mid-tech versions are nearing completion as well. CPM154 stainless and GunKote, no rust allowed.

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Sam⚔️⚔️
Every time I see this knife I'm on edge of ordering. Damn. I gotta get one.
 
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