Like I said at the outset, the outcome from my end would incorporate Nathan's aesthetic preferences and manufacturing techniques. Many small changes were made the result is what you saw in my last photo.
Before I sent the scaled model and original sketch to Nathan, he asked me to explain what I was thinking wrt handle design, primarily. Below is my answer.
I know, tl;dr
But still, it might provide additional insight into this project if you care
*****
there are a number of handholds; choked up, forward grip with thumb on spine, chopping grip, and two reach enhancing grips.
behind the guard, the grip flares out toward the platform in the middle of the grip where the grip is the widest. It is swelled at this point and then tapers until it reaches the pommel, which is bulbous and aids retention is the rearward, reach enhancing grips. The handle dimensions are slightly oversized. In my experience, a grip that is a little fatter decreases the chances of cramping and is more comfortable during heavy use.
the scallop at the jimping is a hook for the web of skin between thumb and fore finger. In the choked up position, with the index finger in the choil, (which is chamfered), this scallop pulls at the web of skin there, providing no slip grip. The jimping should be semi aggressive, in that it will be a little deep, but with the chamfered spine shouldn't cause much in the way of a hotspot for this grip position which if for fine cuts, not chopping. The front of the handle also features one scallop per side, which gives more comfort and control in the choked up grip.
the forward grip, with forefinger immediately behind the guard, places the pad of the thumb over the jimping for controlled chops. The ring finger sits at the platform in the palm swell, providing massive grip strength, keeping the knife from sliding forward in hand during repeated chops. The ring finger is the 'judo' finger and provides a very strong grip
the chopping grip places the pinky right at the beak of the handle to lock the hand in. The curvature of that area bunches the pinky and ring finger together, creating an awesomely strong judo grip, while the middle finger rests on the platform, which has some flat planes, to keep the knife from twisting laterally under heavy loads. The kick at the top of the butt interfaces with the heel of the hand, providing a platform to control swing-through and arrest forward motion of the knife quickly. Both the beak and the heel kick are rounded so as to avoid hotspots. The web of skin between thumb and forefinger wraps over the palm swell, providing an elastic interface for snap cuts.
as the hand moves back on the handle, middle and ring fingers move into the pinky well and the forefinger rests at the palm swell platform to aid in lateral control. The pinky wraps behind the pommel. This grip increases tip speed, leverage, reach and power at the expense of control. Only to be used with a stable target.
the other rearward grip places the pommel in the palm, with fore and middle fingers in the pinky well. This is only a reach enhancing grip and wouldn't provide enough control for safe chopping.
the lanyard hole is at the front of the handle, below the scallop. It would be a flared tube. I didn't drill my model out because it's cedar and delicate. For a chopper, a forward lanyard is superior in the sense that, used correctly, it can be a power multiplier and slingshots the blade. It is also more effective at arresting the knife mid swing.
the handle is designed with two stabbing grips; one with the thumb over the pommel, and the other choked up with the handle completely gripped
the blade would have a fuller, in order to increase surface area, decrease overall weight and because you can do it and it will look cool. The grind is designed to get steeper out toward the tip in order to have a slightly fatter edge up there which would handle abuse better.
I haven't designed the handle skeletonizing, as I thought I'd leave that to you, but I certainly can draw it in if you like.
