CBM's - Customized Benchmade's

I know its not technically custom knife stuff, but its close. You guys should check out this stuff called "Plastidip." I can see a lof of custom blade colors coming forth, and its pretty cheap. When you're tired of the color you just peel it off and apply a new one. Plus it'd probably be great for LT storage of higher carbon, more rust prone blades without having to keep them in oiled paper. Plus would probably work well at keeping finger print stain off of the blades too. I'm going to do my whole car, and all of my ka-bars in it. Ha!
 
that's actually really cool and your right about storage . don't see it working in the field as it would peel off but for light duty / self defense blades it would be cool. I can imagine my spyderco szabo with a bright red blade
 
I can see myself dressing a deer, and then just peeling the bloody stuff right off. Kind of like rubber gloves for your knife. I think it would be worth a shot. same idea with rustoleum neverwet, although that stuff takes around an hour to cure before use and doesn't come off as easily (the base coat is like a thin rubber skin and has to be scraped off, or taken off with harsh chems like xylol.) My BK9 is already coated in neverwet and is in the sheath. that stuff is amazing in what it does, but is very lacking in its resillience against even light abrasion. The top coat comes right off. Oh, and it turned my BK9 baby blue. Ha!
 
I need some advice guys. what if I took this knife, and this wood burl for scales with polished stainless hardware, liners, and backspacer? What about adding a nice shield inlay like you see on good traditional folders to make this guy a cool crossover looking pocket knife? I'm torn between the wood and black-blue G10. Any ideas?View attachment 366162View attachment 366163
 
Last edited:
I have my mini Grip here with custom scales from Cuscadi with aero carbon fiber with an aramid layer on top. The clip is from STRs Backyard knives. I love the knife so much more now that it doesn't have the cheesy plastic body.
nQb0CnXl.jpg
p7qtFJHl.jpg

UVdYVlol.jpg


AHO7LYdl.jpg
AWNQsZCl.jpg

MtX7FjDl.jpg
E2KBxQ0l.jpg
 
Last edited:
Spacers are .140 wide and threaded for 2-56 screws. I made those out of a 1/4 rod of stainless steel. If you don't have a lathe, Knifekits sells spacers that will work, but they are not threaded. They're really hard to thread for some reason though, taps really bind and stick. They must be made out of something weird, just be really careful not to break your tap.

Screws are from knife kits. 2-56 .170 long T6 head.
 
Spacers are .140 wide and threaded for 2-56 screws. I made those out of a 1/4 rod of stainless steel. If you don't have a lathe, Knifekits sells spacers that will work, but they are not threaded. They're really hard to thread for some reason though, taps really bind and stick. They must be made out of something weird, just be really careful not to break your tap.

Screws are from knife kits. 2-56 .170 long T6 head.

Hey. Thanks for the info. Really helps a lot. I found some on knife kits that are already threaded. Hopefully the threaded ones are the size I need. I guess I'll have to micrometer the stock spacer to be certain, but from the pictures .140 seems like it might be just what I need. Thanks again.
 
Okay. I Mic'ed my 523's backspacer and came up with .172. Does that sound about right. I found some stand off kits on knifekits.com that are .175. Anyone willing to offer advice? I'm still going to place an order with Keyman, but am just piddling around till payday. Ha!
 
Back
Top