CBM's - Customized Benchmade's

ampstar said:
I am in need of advice. I want to convert my BM6150 Auto Rukus to assisted. Anyone know how to do that that can offer some knowledge?
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I don't think it can be done. While the spring is the same, the detent is different, and the Axis Assist uses the thumbstud (that your auto doesn't have) to get the blade started. Why would you want to convert it, anyway? It would kill the value of it if you ever decide to sell it.
 
Yeah, you're probably right. I thought about it a lot after I posted that. I think maybe I'll just find and buy either a manual, or a -1 assisted model instead of potentialy ruining this one. Thanks Loonybin!
loonybin said:
I don't think it can be done. While the spring is the same, the detent is different, and the Axis Assist uses the thumbstud (that your auto doesn't have) to get the blade started. Why would you want to convert it, anyway? It would kill the value of it if you ever decide to sell it.
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@keyman and @deathofallthings, WOW you guys are blowing this stuff up!!! Its been months since ive been on, but I am beyond impressed.
 
Quick question for Keyman. How do you work Mokume?
 
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I received my new 810 today, and prompted did what any good benchmade owner would do....i tore it apart and started drilling holes in it! :D (sorry for picture overload)

20140430_121118 by Mechatricity, on Flickr

I was too overcome with maniacal laughter to take pictures of the process, but i skeletonized the G10 and smoothed out the edges a bit. My scale says this shaved 0.20 oz. I have Ti standoffs on the way to replace the backspacer, which my scale says weighs in at 0.40 oz. So all told, i'll be down around 5.2-3 oz from a published 5.92. Not a ton, but i like the visual effect as well.

20140430_165655 by Mechatricity, on Flickr

photo by Mechatricity, on Flickrphoto by Mechatricity, on Flickrphoto by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_170852 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_170908 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_170943 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171013 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171034 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171429 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171459 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171510 by Mechatricity, on Flickr20140430_171746 by Mechatricity, on Flickr
 
I love layered scales. Yours are only the second set I've seen. They look great! Kinda thought I was the first here to do it, but I'm not sure. I used three layers. The black helps hide the black steel liners. A light grey liner would do well with polished steel liners. I don't make a set very often. I have to be really motivated since it is quite a task from start to finish by hand. I'm really proud of mine.

Ranger Ritter 5.jpeg Ranger Ritter 2.jpg

Ranger Ritter 3.jpg Ranger Ritter 1.jpg

Ranger Ritter 6.jpeg
 
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ampstar said:
Quick question for Keyman. How do you work Mokume?
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Sorry ampstar.
I missed this one.
I haven't worked with Mokume.
I have used some composite materials made out of Mokume.
But no straight Mokume.
Though, I have often thought it would be really cool to make some Mokume bolsters to go along with the scales.

Ironwood 707 with standoffs & satin hardware........


 
Keyman said:
Sorry ampstar.
I missed this one.
I haven't worked with Mokume.
I have used some composite materials made out of Mokume.
But no straight Mokume.
Though, I have often thought it would be really cool to make some Mokume bolsters to go along with the scales.

Ironwood 707 with standoffs & satin hardware........


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Yeah. I just got some in. It feels a lot like graphite, almost brittle feeling. I think it's just that its made of light (not flimsy though) materials. I have to order another slab though because I thought I was getting a set and only received one. Lol
 
It is more brittle than some.
So, I would keep it backed up and even to the liners and not over extend it beyond them.
Works good on the 710, not so much on the mini-griptilian.
 
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