Hey, thanks! I was wondering because I've not attempted something like that. I think it would make a fun project though. By the way nice pics of that monster--lookin good.
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- Thread starter SpyderPhreak
- Start date
Hey, thanks! I was wondering because I've not attempted something like that. I think it would make a fun project though. By the way nice pics of that monster--lookin good.
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The etch turned out awesome. Now for some hand power.
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Dang nice etch!!! :thumbup: I may have to bump up the power from one car battery to three next time I do mine.
Well, these "grinder gremlin" marks shouldn't be there.
This means they were applied after the surface grinding process that Jerry spoke of. My guess - Recall that Amy said that they had some coating issues with these, which delayed them a bit. I'm suspecting that they were having issues with the coating adhereing to such a large surface, and had to apply the grinder gremlin marks to help the coating stick to the surface. Which really, REALLY sucks!!! :thumbdn: I was hoping these would look like the BIG finish underneath the coating. I may not strip any of mine now. 
-VashHash
It looks like that after a bunch of sanding ? Or right after stripping ?
I guess the surface grinding took INFI dimples away
Yeah, there wouldn't be any INFI dimples anyway if these were surface ground. It should look like the BIG finish under the coating, but the grinder gremlin marks are a pretty big disappointment IMO. :grumpy:
Also made a temporary blade holder out of pvc pipe but i won't show that.
Looking pretty good, despite some grinder gremlin marks. :thumbup: Nice job with the strip!!!
LOL, must have been fate!
I do think the Muddy looks good on these, and I'm not sure if we've ever been offered the Muddy coating in such a large blade (discounting swords).Well, did it arrive yet???
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-VashHash
It looks like that after a bunch of sanding ? Or right after stripping ?
I guess the surface grinding took INFI dimples away
That's after a bunch of sanding. It was covered in decarb. Just pure flat black decarb. I used a polishing disc for the first pics i posted yesterday to get a good bit of the decarb off. Today i spent a good while hand sanding with 120 grit emery cloth. Still got a few spots towards the tip on both side that needs some work.
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Well, these "grinder gremlin" marks shouldn't be there.
Sorry, but in my professional opinion, this suggestuion doesn't work. I have worked for a coatings company for 38 years. A properly formulated powder coating (which I am sure the Busse is buying) will stick just fine to a properly prepared steel surface (which I am sure that Busse is doing) without any funky random scratch marks.
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I had planned to strip it whether gremlin marks were there or not from day one. It is a little disappointing though that they are there, because I had gotten my hopes up after that surface re-grind post. Don't get me wrong though, I am EXTREMELY happy with it.
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I have had plenty of experience with powder coating too (fencing, custom wind turbine parts), and I completely agree with you. However, somewhere in the past, there was mention that those marks on SR-101 were there for that exact reason.
(No, after looking, I can't come up with where that was mentioned or which Busse employee said so. May have been Dan over in the Scrapyard forum.)
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I have Big 'Ol hands too TMM and prefer longer handles on my knives, but the Res-C handles that Busse puts on the larger line of Basics work fine for me for some reason (just barely, but they do work). Give them a chance (especially when chopping) and I think you'll find you like 'em more than you thought you would.:thumbup:
Congrat's on the BB13!!!
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I used a flat file to back up strips of emory cloth to work the squiggles out of flats on my DTBM. Took a little while but it came out really good. Liberal amounts of WD40 helped a lot. Kept the emory cloth from plugging up so it could keep cutting.
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Yeah, me either. That's odd. Try washing it under warm to hot water and gently scrub it with a nylon scrub brush and some dish soap (preferably Dawn if you have it). Maybe it's just residue left over from edge grinding and it will come off?
ETA - Upon closer inspection of the photo, it defitely appears to be something on top of the current coating. I stand by my previous advice.
ETA - Upon closer inspection of the photo, it defitely appears to be something on top of the current coating. I stand by my previous advice.
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
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Do you think this dark line is marker or a previous coating?
It may be heat from sharpening, or buffing compound, or a combo of both. I have noticed it in my lighter coatings like Sage on a few. On black, itwould be invisible. My WTF BG has it a bit. It has not washed off, but I have not used it hard, orbsfrubbee it well.
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Do you think this dark line is marker or a previous coating?
That's dried blood. You got the knife Amy-0 accidentally cut herself with...
...kidding, obviously
.
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Garth Reckner
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The black line is buffing compound that can get inbedded in the coating. There is buffing compound residue on most blades but it tends to show up the most on sage blades. A combination of lighter color and heavier texture makes it stand out more.
Garth
Garth