Recommendation? Cmp m4, 3v, 4v and their relatives

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Bosker

Joined
Jan 17, 2018
Messages
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Hey! I know cmp 3v is one of the toughest steels for knives, paired with having a good edge retention and not being so bad with rust. But when it comes to sharpening, it may be a bit hard (not as much like D2 for example) with water stones atleast...

And I know that m4 isn't as tough like 3v or 4v but it's still pretty damn tough. With having a better edge retention than 3v and 4v, makes it a lovely steel. But does that mean it's harder or takes longer to sharpen than 3v? Probably (correct me if I'm wrong). Then its the same thing for 4v or a bit better, because 4v its in the "middle" of these two.

So m4 and 4v are worse with rust than 3v (I don't really give a damn 'bout rust). Having m4 better edge retention than 4v and 4v having more than 3v. But 4v is more tougher than m4, still not as 3v. 3v is the easiest to sharpen then 4v and finally m4 if im not wrong... (sorry for being too repetitive)

So I need help with this godly steels without taking rust as a matter.

And if you know a steel tough as 3v (or almost) paired with being easier to sharpen without giving up edge retention i would really appreciate it.

Thanks yall.
 
Get the one that cost less for you. U don’t mention what knife it’s for (fixed, folder, hatchet) or intended use and you don’t care about rust. All these steels are most likely more than what you will need. I have all of these steels and they are overkill for my use but I like to have them. I don’t have any of these and think I made a poor choice, they are gtg.
 
After reading your post several times, yes, you are correct in your assessment. I’ve had the best luck with 4V as far as edge retention and ease of sharpening. 3V and M4 are not difficult to sharpen either. The blades I have in 3V,4V and M4 are fixed blades. What I’ve experienced is that the blade geometry plays an important roll in ease of sharpening. I’m able to keep the steels listed hair popping with a ceramic rod and strop. They’ve only been put on stones a couple times to keep the edge straight.
I also like 10V and Z-Wear, IMO, Z-Wear is more stain resistant than 3V. Check those two out.
 
Megawatt308 said:
Get the one that cost less for you. U don’t mention what knife it’s for (fixed, folder, hatchet) or intended use and you don’t care about rust. All these steels are most likely more than what you will need. I have all of these steels and they are overkill for my use but I like to have them. I don’t have any of these and think I made a poor choice, they are gtg.
Click to expand...

Sorry my bad, a medium fixed blade for survival and all terrain applications. We could say that my life can depend on it. And how I said before, I need it easy to sharpen so If Im lost in the woods I could sharpen it with a random stone. But still being very tough and with a good edge retention.

So then I was right and 3v its easier to sharpen than m4 and 4v. How much? Is the sacrifice worth it for more edge retention? Or should I go with different steels? Too many questions but my mind is flying right now...
 
Ajack60 said:
After reading your post several times, yes, you are correct in your assessment. I’ve had the best luck with 4V as far as edge retention and ease of sharpening. 3V and M4 are not difficult to sharpen either. The blades I have in 3V,4V and M4 are fixed blades. What I’ve experienced is that the blade geometry plays an important roll in ease of sharpening. I’m able to keep the steels listed hair popping with a ceramic rod and strop. They’ve only been put on stones a couple times to keep the edge straight.
I also like 10V and Z-Wear, IMO, Z-Wear is more stain resistant than 3V. Check those two out.
Click to expand...

Then I might go with 3v this time. For me, being more tougher than 4v and being easier to sharpen its what I just need. I dont really care about rust, but being 3v better with it, it's always a plus.

If you know any other steel very tough like 3v but more easier to sharpen without giving up edge retention i would love to hear them.

Thanks!
 
If you really foresee needing to sharpen the knife on a river rock (or similar), you might consider 1095 or 52100. 52100 is no slouch with retention but not at the level of others mentioned. I would hate to have 3v and need to sharpen it on a random rock!
 
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ScooterG said:
If you really foresee needing to sharpen the knife on a river rock (or similar), you might consider 1095 or 52100. 52100 is no slouch with retention but not at the level of others mentioned. I would hate to have 3v and need to sharpen it on a random rock!
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Thanks my Irish friend. Yeah I will consider it, but 1095 isn't very tough and hasnt that great edge retention, but Its in my second thoughts. Ill still search more .
 
Hello Bosker. I see you lurk and read more than post. That means you learn more than talk. That is a sign of intelligence IMO. :) Anyways, I'll start here:

"So m4 and 4v are worse with rust than 3v (I don't really give a damn 'bout rust)"

All the steels listed will vary due to 1) heat treat and 2) finish. In all honesty you can get any of the mentioned steels in a particular knife that outperforms the others in corrosion resistance because of the above 2 factors making the steel difference not an issue. They aren't that far off and 1&2 mean more than the composition. None are stainless though.

Also, forget the river rock sharpening on these steels. They are too high wear. Instead invest in a super lighweight SiC or diamond stone and keep it in your wallet or in the sheath or wherever you can. They make inexpensive ones for $10 or under and less than 3 ounces weight and it's worth it. If you convex the edges just keep a piece of good garnet wet dry sandpaper ( 200-300 grit) tucked away. For the above steels I wouldn't recommend old style Arkansas stones either. These steels laugh at these things and will be time wasters.

It seems like you are on the right track though. These steels make excellent knives. Any of the three should be fine with excess capability. Get the style and size that suits you in any of the three and you should be fine.

Joe
 
The Mastiff said:
Hello Bosker. I see you lurk and read more than post. That means you learn more than talk. That is a sign of intelligence IMO. :) Anyways, I'll start here:

"So m4 and 4v are worse with rust than 3v (I don't really give a damn 'bout rust)"

All the steels listed will vary due to 1) heat treat and 2) finish. In all honesty you can get any of the mentioned steels in a particular knife that outperforms the others in corrosion resistance because of the above 2 factors making the steel difference not an issue. They aren't that far off and 1&2 mean more than the composition. None are stainless though.

Also, forget the river rock sharpening on these steels. They are too high wear. Instead invest in a super lighweight SiC or diamond stone and keep it in your wallet or in the sheath or wherever you can. They make inexpensive ones for $10 or under and less than 3 ounces weight and it's worth it. If you convex the edges just keep a piece of good garnet wet dry sandpaper ( 200-300 grit) tucked away. For the above steels I wouldn't recommend old style Arkansas stones either. These steels laugh at these things and will be time wasters.

It seems like you are on the right track though. These steels make excellent knives. Any of the three should be fine with excess capability. Get the style and size that suits you in any of the three and you should be fine.

Joe
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Good morning Joe.
I do really like to read and I'm not that great making and writing posts... Im not sure if that its a sign of intelligence, but you seem to have more than I do :).

And yes, you are totally right sir, but for what I know, being more stain resistant means it should be more hard to sharpen too. Ofcourse this can be only applied if we are talking about how the steel its composed, not how its treated...

About sharpening, well it's the only disadvantage for me... I can use DM without any problem, but if anything happens I need the versatility to sharpen it with wathever I find in the woods, I don't mind losing a bit of edge retention (just a bit ). It still needs to be tough as a rock though.

I'm still trying to find the best for me! Thanks for all friend!
 
Bosker said:
Sorry my bad, a medium fixed blade for survival and all terrain applications. We could say that my life can depend on it. And how I said before, I need it easy to sharpen so If Im lost in the woods I could sharpen it with a random stone. But still being very tough and with a good edge retention.

So then I was right and 3v its easier to sharpen than m4 and 4v. How much? Is the sacrifice worth it for more edge retention? Or should I go with different steels? Too many questions but my mind is flying right now...
Click to expand...

For your needs, I think A8mod is the best I can remember, on pair with Infi (proprietary steel).
 
Goose 7279 said:
Cruwear is very close to 3v as well
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Hi, for what i know Cruwear is in between 3v and m4, same as 4v. It may have more edge retention but it's still more harder to sharpen. So it's not for me, I need a more easier steel to sharp than 3v, but still being tough...
 
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