Recommendation? Cmp m4, 3v, 4v and their relatives

hugofeynman said:
It’s pretty close, but even if the steel is similar, Infi has a proprietary heat treatment that makes it...Infi.:)
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That's pretty nice, how much less thougher is against 3v. And if its easier to sharpen im guessing its easier to lose its edge too, by how much? Thanks again!!:)
 
Goose 7279 said:
Cruwear is alot easier to sharpen imo but YMMV i feel like 4v is harder to sharpen of the ones mentioned.
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Yeah, if it wasn't because of being hard to sharpen I would have gone with v4. But for now I'm seeing v3 is perfect, it's tough, has decent edge retention and it's even rust-less. Shame isn't that easy to sharpen...
 
Bosker said:
Yeah, if it wasn't because of being hard to sharpen I would have gone with v4. But for now I'm seeing v3 is perfect, it's tough, has decent edge retention and it's even rust-less. Shame isn't that easy to sharpen...
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Buy a diamond sharpener and find a way to add it to the sheath. That way you wont have any issues sharpening in the field. Any of these steels shouldnt be too hard to sharpen as long as you maintain the edges using diamond or SiC abrasives.
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
Buy a diamond sharpener and find a way to add it to the sheath. That way you wont have any issues sharpening in the field. Any of these steels shouldnt be too hard to sharpen as long as you maintain the edges using diamond or SiC abrasives.
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Thanks Shannon, I will get a few of DMS, but I need to get an idea before I buy. So about sharpeing v3 without DMS, will I just need to spend more "time" with it or it's literally hard to almost impossible with water stones.
 
Bosker said:
Thanks Shannon, I will get a few of DMS, but I need to get an idea before I buy. So about sharpeing v3 without DMS, will I just need to spend more "time" with it or it's literally hard to almost impossible with water stones.
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It would be best to use the diamond or man made abrasive in the field. If you want to sharpen quickly while out in the woods or on a trip. Diamonds or CBN are your best bed for speed and Effectiveness. .
You will wear out most water stones faster with 3V, M4, and 4V. It's not impossible though. You should be able to sharpen them on those stones but it will take much longer.
 
Bosker said:
That's pretty nice, how much less thougher is against 3v. And if its easier to sharpen im guessing its easier to lose its edge too, by how much? Thanks again!!:)
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A8mod or Infi less tougher than 3v?!?! Never! Both A8mod and Infi are way tougher than 3v. A8mod was designed to be an alternative to S7 with more wear resistance at the expense of a little toughness. Like Fredrik Haakonsen once told me, if there where a pm steel tougher than A8mod, he would be using it in his survival knives and he is still using A8mod (he uses Vanadis 4 extra in his hunters). Jerry is still using Infi, so I think there’s nothing better than A8mod (or Infi) as a compromise between wear resistance and toughness. Want tougher? S7, K600, 4140, Aermet, Maraging... Want more wear resistant? 3v, 4v, V4e, M4,... but the best compromise will be a well heat treated A8mod blade cut parallel to the rolling direction of the steel, with the right geometry to the given task.
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
It would be best to use the diamond or man made abrasive in the field. If you want to sharpen quickly while out in the woods or on a trip. Diamonds or CBN are your best bed for speed and Effectiveness. .
You will wear out most water stones faster with 3V, M4, and 4V. It's not impossible though. You should be able to sharpen them on those stones but it will take much longer.
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Thanks a lot man!! Then I shouldnt be screwed at all
 
hugofeynman said:
A8mod or Infi less tougher than 3v?!?! Never! Both A8mod and Infi are way tougher than 3v. A8mod was designed to be an alternative to S7 with more wear resistance at the expense of a little toughness. Like Fredrik Haakonsen once told me, if there where a pm steel tougher than A8mod, he would be using it in his survival knives and he is still using A8mod (he uses Vanadis 4 extra in his hunters). Jerry is still using Infi, so I think there’s nothing better than A8mod (or Infi) as a compromise between wear resistance and toughness. Want tougher? S7, K600, 4140, Aermet, Maraging... Want more wear resistant? 3v, 4v, V4e, M4,... but the best compromise will be a well heat treated A8mod blade cut parallel to the rolling direction of the steel, with the right geometry to the given task.
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Damn shit, sorry if I'm not allowed to swear but I was f. wrong all the time! You just cleared me everything man, I knew something wasn't right at all...

So then A8mod and Infi are tougher than 3v and still easier to sharpen? And with the plus that its even more stain resistan (even if i dont care about stain/rust). Well it's seems I'm getting new steel then.

Thanks a lot everyone you all helped me a lot, I do really appreciate it!!
 
Bosker said:
Damn shit, sorry if I'm not allowed to swear but I was f. wrong all the time! You just cleared me everything man, I knew something wasn't right at all...

So then A8mod and Infi are tougher than 3v and still easier to sharpen? And with the plus that its even more stain resistan (even if i dont care about stain/rust). Well it's seems I'm getting new steel then.

Thanks a lot everyone you all helped me a lot, I do really appreciate it!!
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They are tougher but infi has less edge holding than 3V. And less edge holding than both 4V and M4.

Infi is some impressive stuff from what I've heard. Exceptionally tough.

If you want edge holding and toughness go with 3V/4V, if you want better edge holding try M4. If you want something super tough try infi or A8mod.
All depends on what you want!
Good luck!
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
They are tougher but infi has less edge holding than 3V. And less edge holding than both 4V and M4.

Infi is some impressive stuff from what I've heard. Exceptionally tough.

If you want edge holding and toughness go with 3V/4V, if you want better edge holding try M4. If you want something super tough try infi or A8mod.
All depends on what you want!
Good luck!
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I don't mind having a bit less edge holding if I can sharpen it easier and faster, what I l do need its a very tough steel. I don't want my blade to chip or break when my life depends on it (and a few other things like water, oxygen and food) :D

Thank you!
 
For practical purposes A8(mod) won't be tougher than well treated 3V. We aren't talking about hammers, pry tools and such. 3V is more than adequate for knife chopper use and a bunch better for thinner edge slicing. Also, hugofeynman is talking about difficult to find and very expensive knives when he talks about Fredrik Haakonsen. Are you really wanting $700 knives? I have Infi, S7, 5160 and other "tough" steels and find them ok. I don't dislike them but I find myself carrying my 3V and now 4V/V4E because they do the thin cutting/slicing job better. That is what I need now. I learned that lesson with Ferhman knives compared to Busse. Both do the heavy jobs just fine and I will wear out before they will. Now both sit in a box unused for now too though.

All knives eventually need sharpening. If I am needing to sharpen any knife no matter the steel I tend towards not wanting to compromise and will use something that works well. I have freehand sharpened since the late 60's and the thought of trying to sharpen a knife on a river rock or coffee mug makes me shudder. It's just not practical nor realistic except on an already fairly sharp knife that I don't care if I accidentally dull. It's so easy to carry sharpeners if you aren't naked and limited to one item for a TV show.

If you like A8(mod) fine. It's a good steel. Is it practical or realistic? Is it better than the others for you? Is it available in something useful to you? Only you can decide. Personally I have less use for super thick knives that I pay a ton for. I have a large box of them I rarely take out because my needs tend towards wanting superior cutting and slicing knives and for chopping my axes and mauls are so much better for anything except making kindling .

I'm not big on any one knife/gun/tool for all jobs. The compromises make them not great for any job IMO.

Joe
 
The Mastiff said:
For practical purposes A8(mod) won't be tougher than well treated 3V. We aren't talking about hammers, pry tools and such. 3V is more than adequate for knife chopper use and a bunch better for thinner edge slicing. Also, hugofeynman is talking about difficult to find and very expensive knives when he talks about Fredrik Haakonsen. Are you really wanting $700 knives? I have Infi, S7, 5160 and other "tough" steels and find them ok. I don't dislike them but I find myself carrying my 3V and now 4V/V4E because they do the thin cutting/slicing job better. That is what I need now. I learned that lesson with Ferhman knives compared to Busse. Both do the heavy jobs just fine and I will wear out before they will. Now both sit in a box unused for now too though.

All knives eventually need sharpening. If I am needing to sharpen any knife no matter the steel I tend towards not wanting to compromise and will use something that works well. I have freehand sharpened since the late 60's and the thought of trying to sharpen a knife on a river rock or coffee mug makes me shudder. It's just not practical nor realistic except on an already fairly sharp knife that I don't care if I accidentally dull. It's so easy to carry sharpeners if you aren't naked and limited to one item for a TV show.

If you like A8(mod) fine. It's a good steel. Is it practical or realistic? Is it better than the others for you? Is it available in something useful to you? Only you can decide. Personally I have less use for super thick knives that I pay a ton for. I have a large box of them I rarely take out because my needs tend towards wanting superior cutting and slicing knives and for chopping my axes and mauls are so much better for anything except making kindling .

I'm not big on any one knife/gun/tool for all jobs. The compromises make them not great for any job IMO.

Joe
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See, how i said before, you have way more intelligence than me.

I just searched and all the knives with Infi, S7 etc... Go more than 500$

So I'm guessing it isn't that practical and i think the toughness of 3v is enough for the abusing, i hope...

So there's no way for sharpening with river stones like my grandad? Ok I feel depressed now, I thought I would be like Rambo lost in the woods with just a knife surviving eating snakes.
Seriously, if I i have to take a stone no matter what, then I might just get 3v and buy or make a small knife with 1095 or any other steel more easier to sharpen.

I'm seeing the Master Hunter of Cold Steel in 3v pretty good, what's your thoughts?

Best regards Joe!
 
Bosker said:
See, how i said before, you have way more intelligence than me.

I just searched and all the knives with Infi, S7 etc... Go more than 500$

So I'm guessing it isn't that practical and i think the toughness of 3v is enough for the abusing, i hope...

So there's no way for sharpening with river stones like my grandad? Ok I feel depressed now, I thought I would be like Rambo lost in the woods with just a knife surviving eating snakes.
Seriously, if I i have to take a stone no matter what, then I might just get 3v and buy or make a small knife with 1095 or any other steel more easier to sharpen.

I'm seeing the Master Hunter of Cold Steel in 3v pretty good, what's your thoughts?

Best regards Joe!
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Get the 3v knife, buy a small sharpener that's diamond based (pretty inexpensive, DMT diafold or something)

You wont regret it . Its extremely tough and holds a good edge. I've never broken any knife I've made in 3V. Neither have any of my clients. It's my favorite overall steel.
 
ShannonSteelLabs said:
Get the 3v knife, buy a small sharpener that's diamond based (pretty inexpensive, DMT diafold or something)

You wont regret it . Its extremely tough and holds a good edge. I've never broken any knife I've made in 3V. Neither have any of my clients. It's my favorite overall steel.
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I see you make knifes in 3v, and its your favourite steel, let's talk about bussiness then ;)
 
"I'm seeing the Master Hunter of Cold Steel in 3v pretty good, what's your thoughts?"

It's a nice little knife. It slices well. I don't have the 3V model though and can't talk about it's heat treat or how it performs but I have the old stainless model and it did what it was designed for. They aren't real hard user knives.

If you like smaller knives in 1095 that are easy to sharpen than some companies like Battle Horse and others I can't recall the names of that are in steels like O-1and A2 and are easy to maintain and sharpen, from 3 to 5 inches for $150 to $200. Take your time to look around. There have never been more good choices than now.

Joe
 
The Mastiff said:
"I'm seeing the Master Hunter of Cold Steel in 3v pretty good, what's your thoughts?"

It's a nice little knife. It slices well. I don't have the 3V model though and can't talk about it's heat treat or how it performs but I have the old stainless model and it did what it was designed for. They aren't real hard user knives.

If you like smaller knives in 1095 that are easy to sharpen than some companies like Battle Horse and others I can't recall the names of that are in steels like O-1and A2 and are easy to maintain and sharpen, from 3 to 5 inches for $150 to $200. Take your time to look around. There have never been more good choices than now.

Joe
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The Mastiff said:
For practical purposes A8(mod) won't be tougher than well treated 3V. We aren't talking about hammers, pry tools and such. 3V is more than adequate for knife chopper use and a bunch better for thinner edge slicing. Also, hugofeynman is talking about difficult to find and very expensive knives when he talks about Fredrik Haakonsen. Are you really wanting $700 knives? I have Infi, S7, 5160 and other "tough" steels and find them ok. I don't dislike them but I find myself carrying my 3V and now 4V/V4E because they do the thin cutting/slicing job better. That is what I need now. I learned that lesson with Ferhman knives compared to Busse. Both do the heavy jobs just fine and I will wear out before they will. Now both sit in a box unused for now too though.

All knives eventually need sharpening. If I am needing to sharpen any knife no matter the steel I tend towards not wanting to compromise and will use something that works well. I have freehand sharpened since the late 60's and the thought of trying to sharpen a knife on a river rock or coffee mug makes me shudder. It's just not practical nor realistic except on an already fairly sharp knife that I don't care if I accidentally dull. It's so easy to carry sharpeners if you aren't naked and limited to one item for a TV show.

If you like A8(mod) fine. It's a good steel. Is it practical or realistic? Is it better than the others for you? Is it available in something useful to you? Only you can decide. Personally I have less use for super thick knives that I pay a ton for. I have a large box of them I rarely take out because my needs tend towards wanting superior cutting and slicing knives and for chopping my axes and mauls are so much better for anything except making kindling .

I'm not big on any one knife/gun/tool for all jobs. The compromises make them not great for any job IMO.

Joe
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I have less expensive A8mod knives made by LKW Knives (Poland) and Dulo Knives (Bulgaria) and perform very well, I just mentioned Fredrik Haakonsen because he is my reference regarding high quality knives. Everybody is using pm steels now and they’re fine (I have lots of pm steel knives), but if primary focus is toughness, they are not my top choice. Having said that, a well built knife made by someone dedicated to his trade, like Shannon steel labs can make a knife that will make the OP really happy!
 
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If you want tough also consider 80CrV2 steel. A bunch of makers who sell on the Bladeforums exchange use it, check them out. It will rust (though not if you maintain it), but otherwise has good edge holding and is extremely tough.
 
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