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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Cold Steel Trail Master Aficionados Thread
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Ankerson
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So i wonder why they went from the aus-8 to the vg-1 core? Better quality or what.
VG-1 holds an edge longer than AUS8 does, higher grade steel.
I think AUS8 is tougher though.
Thanks Jim, I'm thinking about getting one. But i wish they came with a kydex sheath instead of the cordura one. That cordura sheath looks kind of flimsey. I had one with my RS did'nt care for it. I guess you could always have a kydex one made though.
Ankerson
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007 when I reprofiled the edge I sacrificed the strength of the factory edge for one that has better slicing. I reground the edge from a 30 degree included angle to about twenty degrees. I have a small belt sander that I used to do this. It made an incredible difference in chopping efficency.
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I have one in SK-5. I trolled the exchange an eternity till I finally got one in black. I won't likely get rid of it. Its one of my favorite woods blades and choppers and I LOVE 5/16" blades. I use it when I don't want use my SW Chopweiler or my new Scrapyard Deregulator.
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Yes it does, its coming up on it's birthday soon and been through dozens of logs like those and more. So far only stropped the edge and its still hair shaving.
Sorry for a newb question like this, but is AUS8 a "better" steel than the SK5 on the new Trail Master?
For that matter, was the Carbon V a "better" steel than the SK5?
I'm not entirely sure what constitutes a "better" steel for a field knife... It seems like a continual trade-off between something like a super-hard (brittle) edge-keeping monster at one end of the continuum and a flexible pry-bar with an edge on the other. Somewhere in the middle is perfection?
To prempt the question, for me, the SMIII is kinda outta the running because unfortunately i beat the utter crap outta my field tools and the SMIII is a little more spendy than what i want to drop on replacement. I don't intentionally abuse things, but am a hard-core user. All my outdoor gear gets it really. I take great care with my kit (OCD), but some devices are just assigned to hard use - my packs, crampons, ice/glacier tools and knives are at the top of that list and they simply have to be tough.
All told, i'd prefer a blade less suscepible to edge chipping, but still able to maintain a tough point. I'm hoping the new Trail Master (SK5 version) can do this?
For that matter, was the Carbon V a "better" steel than the SK5?
I'm not entirely sure what constitutes a "better" steel for a field knife... It seems like a continual trade-off between something like a super-hard (brittle) edge-keeping monster at one end of the continuum and a flexible pry-bar with an edge on the other. Somewhere in the middle is perfection?
To prempt the question, for me, the SMIII is kinda outta the running because unfortunately i beat the utter crap outta my field tools and the SMIII is a little more spendy than what i want to drop on replacement. I don't intentionally abuse things, but am a hard-core user. All my outdoor gear gets it really. I take great care with my kit (OCD), but some devices are just assigned to hard use - my packs, crampons, ice/glacier tools and knives are at the top of that list and they simply have to be tough.
All told, i'd prefer a blade less suscepible to edge chipping, but still able to maintain a tough point. I'm hoping the new Trail Master (SK5 version) can do this?
Ankerson
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I would say the SM III would be the better choice as the Tip is thicker than the SK-5 vers and the price really isn't that high on them if you get on on knifecenter etc.
That is if you really want a quality hard use tool for your uses that is.
Now if you could find an old Carbon V vers that would be even better, but they really command a large premium these days.
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It is not about which steel is "best" but which qualities in the steel are most important to you. That is different for everyone.
From the CS FAQ's page:
Q: What is San Mai III® blade construction?
A simple way to think of San Mai III® blade construction is to imagine a sandwich: The meat center is hard, high carbon steel and the pieces of bread on either side are the lower-carbon, tough side panels. The edge of the blade should be hard to maximize edge holding ability, but if the entire blade was hard it could be damaged during the rigors of battle. For ultimate toughness the body of the blade must be able to withstand impact and lateral stresses. Toughness is generally associated with "softness" and "flexibility" in steel, so that, surprisingly, if a blade is made "tough" the edge won't be hard enough to offer superior edge holding. San Mai III® blades provides a blade with hard (higher carbon) steel in the middle for a keen, long lasting edge and tougher (lower-carbon) steel along the sides for flexibility.
Q: What is SK-5 High Carbon Steel?
SK-5 is the Japanese equivalent of American 1080, a high carbon steel with carbon between 0.75%-0.85% and 0.60%-0.90% manganese. As quenched, it has a hardness near Rc 65 and produces a mixture of carbon rich martensite with some small un-dissolved carbides. The excess carbide increases abrasion resistance and allows the steel to achieve an ideal balance of very good blade toughness with superior edge holding ability. Due to these characteristics, this grade of steel has been used traditionally for making a variety of hand tools, including chisels and woodcutting saws, and has stood the test of time and use over many years in many countries. Our working temper for these SK-5 steel knives are RC 57-58.
The edge of a Carbon steel knife will take damage by rolling or small dents which can be repaired in a pinch when in the field much faster. A stainless knife will chip and lose material, which is much harder to repair by sharpening. Most outdoorsman will prefer a high carbon blade for rough use for this reason.
I love the San Mai steel knives for my main personal use in the woods. The Japanese SMIII knives come extremely sharp. Another thing to mention is that the edge on them is convex, which requires a certain technique to maintain. A sharpening stone will not keep this setup. I use a strop for regular maintainence and a belt grinder for serious sharpening.
On the current version SK-5, the tip is quite a bit thinner than in the past. If you are going to go carbon I would recommend trying to find an older model.
From the CS FAQ's page:
Q: What is San Mai III® blade construction?
A simple way to think of San Mai III® blade construction is to imagine a sandwich: The meat center is hard, high carbon steel and the pieces of bread on either side are the lower-carbon, tough side panels. The edge of the blade should be hard to maximize edge holding ability, but if the entire blade was hard it could be damaged during the rigors of battle. For ultimate toughness the body of the blade must be able to withstand impact and lateral stresses. Toughness is generally associated with "softness" and "flexibility" in steel, so that, surprisingly, if a blade is made "tough" the edge won't be hard enough to offer superior edge holding. San Mai III® blades provides a blade with hard (higher carbon) steel in the middle for a keen, long lasting edge and tougher (lower-carbon) steel along the sides for flexibility.
Q: What is SK-5 High Carbon Steel?
SK-5 is the Japanese equivalent of American 1080, a high carbon steel with carbon between 0.75%-0.85% and 0.60%-0.90% manganese. As quenched, it has a hardness near Rc 65 and produces a mixture of carbon rich martensite with some small un-dissolved carbides. The excess carbide increases abrasion resistance and allows the steel to achieve an ideal balance of very good blade toughness with superior edge holding ability. Due to these characteristics, this grade of steel has been used traditionally for making a variety of hand tools, including chisels and woodcutting saws, and has stood the test of time and use over many years in many countries. Our working temper for these SK-5 steel knives are RC 57-58.
The edge of a Carbon steel knife will take damage by rolling or small dents which can be repaired in a pinch when in the field much faster. A stainless knife will chip and lose material, which is much harder to repair by sharpening. Most outdoorsman will prefer a high carbon blade for rough use for this reason.
I love the San Mai steel knives for my main personal use in the woods. The Japanese SMIII knives come extremely sharp. Another thing to mention is that the edge on them is convex, which requires a certain technique to maintain. A sharpening stone will not keep this setup. I use a strop for regular maintainence and a belt grinder for serious sharpening.
On the current version SK-5, the tip is quite a bit thinner than in the past. If you are going to go carbon I would recommend trying to find an older model.
Thanks Ankerson/Grinder -
When i'm in the "woods" it's usually in the mountains here in Bosnia and a non-material-loss blade fits my logic better as well as an easier (for me) to re-sharpen edge. I've never used a strop and don't have a belt sander so the convex edge would be something challenging to maintain.
It stinks that CS made a thinner tip on the SK5's. Why would they do this? How much thinner is the new one than the older models? Would it still hold up to hard use? I know, "how hard is 'hard'?" its a pretty relative concept.
Maybe an M-Tech Trail Master wannabe will do it for me.....
When i'm in the "woods" it's usually in the mountains here in Bosnia and a non-material-loss blade fits my logic better as well as an easier (for me) to re-sharpen edge. I've never used a strop and don't have a belt sander so the convex edge would be something challenging to maintain.
It stinks that CS made a thinner tip on the SK5's. Why would they do this? How much thinner is the new one than the older models? Would it still hold up to hard use? I know, "how hard is 'hard'?" its a pretty relative concept.
Maybe an M-Tech Trail Master wannabe will do it for me.....
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I've got an older model Trailmaster in Carbon V and the only real work-out I've ever given it, is hacking at a huge alder stump in my backyard. I was pretty impressed with the results.
I'm not really a deep woods kind of guy so I've never taken it anywhere because it came with a leather sheath. Having a knife that big hanging from my belt just wouldn't go over that well in the semi-wild areas I go to, where I'm sure to run into other people. I'd love to get a kydex sheath for it so I could carry it with a Mercharness or even in a pair of deep pocket pants using a Spyderco G-clip. I saw Mike Sastre's photos of Trailmasters in Southern Comfort kydex sheaths. I wonder how hard those are to get?
I'm not really a deep woods kind of guy so I've never taken it anywhere because it came with a leather sheath. Having a knife that big hanging from my belt just wouldn't go over that well in the semi-wild areas I go to, where I'm sure to run into other people. I'd love to get a kydex sheath for it so I could carry it with a Mercharness or even in a pair of deep pocket pants using a Spyderco G-clip. I saw Mike Sastre's photos of Trailmasters in Southern Comfort kydex sheaths. I wonder how hard those are to get?
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So are the current SK-5 Trail Masters worth getting? How is CS' SK-5 in terms of toughness? I've been wanting a Trail Master for quite some time but allways put it off for something else. I'm wondering if I should save up for an SM III Trail Master.
Ankerson
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Oh it's tough and holds an edge great. :thumbup:
Would someone be willing to help me with something? I'm going to buy a Trail Master later this year when i'm back home in the States, but thats a long way off (mid-December) and i want to hit the ground running with this project.
I will be making my own Kydex sheath and here is where i need some help. I can read the dimensions of the Trail Master, but that doesn't really help with the overall 'shape' of the knife (i'm aware of model/age variations, but i can get somewhat close).
What i need is a photo-copy of someone's Trailmaster scanned and e-mailed to me. If the scan could be a 2-part image that would work best. This is so i can print each section of the knife and tape 'em together to begin making a pattern for my sheath.
When i finish the project i'd post pics and such.
HELP!!!!!
frank
I will be making my own Kydex sheath and here is where i need some help. I can read the dimensions of the Trail Master, but that doesn't really help with the overall 'shape' of the knife (i'm aware of model/age variations, but i can get somewhat close).
What i need is a photo-copy of someone's Trailmaster scanned and e-mailed to me. If the scan could be a 2-part image that would work best. This is so i can print each section of the knife and tape 'em together to begin making a pattern for my sheath.
When i finish the project i'd post pics and such.
HELP!!!!!
frank
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When I make a Trail Master sheath, I'll start with a 12"X12" piece of kydex for a fold-over. This leaves excess but a piece of .093 black is only $4 cost.
Thanks Grinder -
Good advice on the 12x12 sheet!
I was hoping to get everything all sized up to be ready to order the Kydex, but i'm not going to go with a 'taco' style. I'm leaning toward a 'sandwich' style and add pass-through rivets, etc to add on MOLLE pouch(s), etc.
Back to the Community-At-Large - Any takers on some copy-making?!? Please??!?!!??!
Hopefully and thankfully,
fmajor
Good advice on the 12x12 sheet!
I was hoping to get everything all sized up to be ready to order the Kydex, but i'm not going to go with a 'taco' style. I'm leaning toward a 'sandwich' style and add pass-through rivets, etc to add on MOLLE pouch(s), etc.
Back to the Community-At-Large - Any takers on some copy-making?!? Please??!?!!??!
Hopefully and thankfully,
fmajor
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Grinder, do you sell any of the kydex sheaths you make for Trailmasters? If so, I'd love to buy one! A kydex sheath would allow me to carry my Trailmaster discretely and I could finally take it with me on a hike.
Thanks
Thanks