Combatchet Proto WIP

[creightonfcb]

Hey Rick!

I am sad to see that the saw was taken off. Believe it or not, we use little things like that quite often down range, and having it incorperated into such a compact designe I thought was a good idea...

If you look at the back of an M-9 Bayonett, it has a type of file/saw combo. I can't tell you how many times I have used that little thing in the field!!

As for Rust in the field, that is what power coating is for, or a little bit of CLP that we use on our weapons (Clean, Lubircate, Protect oil) so I would go with the toughest avalible metal, and not worry about a high carbon content steel.

The sheath looks great!! Somthing to keep in mind, is that all "dangerous" surfaces must be covered in order to do Airborne ops with it, and it also must incoperate a double retention feature...

What a beaut of a project!! Thanks for thinking of us!!!

V/r,

Frank B

 

[creightonfcb]

Oops, forgot to address the "stabing" question"...

It is a good point, that it would probably see quite a bit of use as a prybar, but if someone is rushing you the easiest thing to to is a "pommel" strike... in this instance the "skull crusher design would be useful...

Again, just my 2 cents!!!

Happy Grinding!!

 

[creightonfcb]

One more thing...

A option to have the handle wrapped in 550 cord would be a pretty popular option... as that would increase it's appeal to the Ranger crowd...

 

[Rick Haney Design]

Hey Rick!

I am sad to see that the saw was taken off. Believe it or not, we use little things like that quite often down range, and having it incorperated into such a compact designe I thought was a good idea...

If you look at the back of an M-9 Bayonett, it has a type of file/saw combo. I can't tell you how many times I have used that little thing in the field!!

As for Rust in the field, that is what power coating is for, or a little bit of CLP that we use on our weapons (Clean, Lubircate, Protect oil) so I would go with the toughest avalible metal, and not worry about a high carbon content steel.

The sheath looks great!! Somthing to keep in mind, is that all "dangerous" surfaces must be covered in order to do Airborne ops with it, and it also must incoperate a double retention feature...

What a beaut of a project!! Thanks for thinking of us!!!

V/r,

Frank B

I was on the fence about deleting the saw,I'll put the saw function back in the design.A feature you use because you have it.

S-7 steel,Coated finish.Maybe discuss a custom patterned coating later.

With the molded dimples + snap straps on the blade & skull crusher end,This combo appears to address the military double retention requirements.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

I'm liking watching this design evolve! My .02 on the pommel - if it was in a flatter pry-bar shape rather than a sharp point, (1) it would have additional practical value as a pry-bar (2) you wouldn't need to sheath the pommel, greatly reducing sheath complexity and cost (3) it would still serve the actual function of a skull-crusher in CQB. I'm guessing this tool would see roughly 100,000 times more use for prying than for skull-crushing.

As to stock, 3/8" makes a good hammer head but a heavy implement. I'd suggest going to the hardware store, buying one of those $6 cast-steel hammer/axe/prybar tools, taking it out in the yard to beat on it for a while, and then ask yourself "how does my design [aside from looking cool] improve on this for the average soldier?" I think the main reason those aren't used by combat troops is that although small they are too bulky and heavy.

I see your point on squaring the end for the pry bar.Small change.
Would you not still have to cover the prybar,preventing accidental injury?
1/4" S-7 should have enough heft,3/8" stock would seem on the heavy side for a small tool.Design variables to consider.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

Frank,The saw is back in!I envisioned the slanted notch profile,Could play around with that.

hardheart,Your suggestion on relocating the head retention strap works better.

Fishface5,Doing that small change improves the function.Thanks.

Another suggestion,Cord wrapping the handle.I'm steering towards G-10 fastened with 4/40 screws.You could interchange different color scales for the needed situation.

I've added a titanium rod to serve as a sheath spine reinforcement,Molded right in.It should minimize twisting in hard draw scenarios.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

After looking at the head strap,I decided to move it to the finger hole.Allowing the hand better access for the draw.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

I thought it needed some D-ring attachment points.

 

[creightonfcb]

Yea baby! That is looking GOOOOOODDDDD!!!!:thumbup:

Any Idea how much these will run... looks like I will be saving up for one of these!!!

Frank B

Oh! And it sure looks like it meets the double retention standars!!

 

[Rick Haney Design]

Frank,Thanks Bro.

Need to have a proto waterjet cut,See how the sheath will be made.
We still have a blade coating suggestion to finalize.Once I make one,I'll have a ball park price on it.

I like DLC finish because of reported durability,But Ceracote is gaining recognition on military firearms.I'm thinking,Tan sheath w/3 - color tan subtle camo pattern.Or just one color.They also have a variety of colors to choice from.While I'm brainstorming,Could you not somehow make it where you could carry a firestarter stick & or a diamond sharpening rod?Let me think on that one.

 

[creightonfcb]

That should be easy to add to the Kydex!!! Great Idea!

Do they make Kydex in Sage Green?? That is one of the standard colors that both the Air Force and the Army share...

The three color desert pattern would be good for our good 'ol Devil Dogs... unless we have some prowing around here on the forum that would like to make a sugestion???

As for the sharpening rod, most of us cary some type of mutitool that has a file on it that can be used to sharpen the Combatchet!!

 

[Rick Haney Design]

Including a slim pouch for a firestarter might come into play if needed,Trying to think the most effective way to attach the pouch?Not much room to work with.
I was thinking most soldiers carried a multitool.Sharpening stick not really neccesary.

I like the Sage green color,I'll check to see if that color is available.
Everybody's welcome to chime in on any input they feel is relevent.Especially color options.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

Worked on the handle hole & screw locations,Slight changes to kydex dimple detent area.Moved bottom lanyard hole to allow more area to pry with.

Didn't really have room to attach a pouch for a firestarter,I guess you could tie it off.Or on a caribiner.Sometimes a idea doesn't pan out.Oh well.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

The drawing is getting real close to being finalized.Trying to tweak the small details.

I lengthened the pry bar end slightly.

Worked on the strapping fixture on the head area.

I may have my logo waterjet cut out on the head sheath.

Once the drawing is ready,I send the Dxf file to my waterjet guy.
The CAD software he allows me to use is intuitive.As you have seen,The design process on CAD can help as another tool in your workshop!

 

[hardheart]

hmm, just thought of something... how will the prybar be used? I like the one piece sheath design, but it won't allow the hatchet blade/saw to remain covered while prying.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

hardheart,valid point.I was looking at that same issue earlier,I'm thinking with the dimple in the head sheath would allow some amount of pivot of the blade enough to pry with.And not to expose the beard edge.I'll rotate the head in the drawing to see if will be adequate rotation.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

hardheart,I took inconsideration the issue about keeping the head secure while being able to use the pry bar.

This is the blade rotated on the retention dimple molded in the head sheath,It looks like the tip of the beard edge is exposed.I could extend the kydex to cover it in rotation.You would have to unsnap the retention strap to accomplish this.

Then I thought,Why could you not articulate the pry bar section of the sheath such as this.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

In order for the articulating section to work,I need to make sure the articulation rotation does not overextend when you draw the pry bar out of it's sheath,I will incorporate a pin stop at the pivot to limit rotation.

I'll draw it up in the morning.Need to have a fresh head tomorrow.:yawn:

 

[Rick Haney Design]

I've been working on this while drinking my customary cup of coffee.

OK,I knew the articulation of the section needed to not overextend when drawing the pry bar.So I incorporated a stop pin slot around the pivot point.Then I thought,You do not want it flopping around & getting in the way.Also incorporated a 3 position dimple detent,Kind of locks it in position.The first pics shows it in #2 position,Then #3 position.

 

[Rick Haney Design]

I decided it needed a oxygen wrench slot,I located it below the finger ring.I'll probably need to get the exact dimension of the slot,Anybody know what the dimension of the slot is?