Conversation with Shiva Ki

Jimmy was getting ready to post rope cutting results last night when the forums went down.
Nice to be up and running again and I'm pretty sure he'll be along when he gets time.

Regarding the sheaths,that is a very :cool: design as a functional carry and accessability would be right there,IMO.
Thanks Flavius! :thumbup:
I sure dig that knife too,Keith.
Is handle walnut?

When I shipped him the knife,I shipped it unsheathed:eek: ,I used bubble wrap and had a cork to put on the tip but was all wound up about the testing and forgot to stick the cork on the tip,despite that it "survived the perils of the Postal system."

Doug
 
Here's the report as sent to Doug.

Matt Lamey just left this morning headed back home. We completed some of the testing and I just translated my notations and thought I’d get the results off to you.

Rope cutting was first on the agenda. The rope used was 3/4 inch manila and was cut on a flat piece of 2 X 6 spruce. I still haven’t finished up my version of Shiva’s small Spirit blade as of yet, so used a blade in the shop that has almost exactly the same blade bevel as the knife I’m working on. The same edge geometry of the blade I used for the cutting… as well as steel / heat-treat / etc… are the same as my version of the Spirit blade will have when the blade is completed. I feel there will be no difference in cutting between the knife and I used for the test and the knife I’m working on. If I did, I would have postponed the cutting tests… and will test my version of Shiva’s blade and post those results, too, if you like.

There are, of course, more than one way to grip a knife when cutting something like a length of rope placed on a board. I would have preferred to grip the knife handle with the base of my right forefinger on the spine of the blade in front of the guard for maximum leverage… and using the couple of inches of blade nearest the guard to do the cutting. This grip was not feasible using the small Spirit blade for two reasons. The first reason is that the guard prevents such a grip being employed. The second is that the recurve in the blade, as slight as it is in the knife you sent, prevents the edge back near the guard from making full contact with the board on which the rope rests… thus the rope can be cut only partly through without sawing the blade to make the cut. As a result I chose to cut the rope with the rounded area of the blade just in front of the recurve. As far as I could determine that part of that blade was as sharp as any other, so no advantage was lost in using that area of the blade… but what I had to do in order to cut was to place a hand on the back of the blade directly over the area of edge being used to cut. Again… no disadvantage… just awkward. While cutting, I gripped my own blade in much the same manner as the small Spirit blade to level the playing field.

Matt, Maggie (my wife) and I were all counting the number of pieces of rope being cut, so hopefully error was eliminated. The plan was to make the first hundred cuts through the rope and then strop the blades to make sure they would still shave arm hair… this being the minimum number of cuts that each of my blades must do before they leave my shop… just a standard test that all blades should pass. After that, the blades would be stropped as needed… meaning when the edge was very difficult to force through the cut. I should also explain that all cuts were made using about 2 inches of blade only. Cutting was accomplished by placing the edge on the rope and applying both downward and forward pressure. A really keen edge makes a particular ‘shissing’ sound when slicing through the rope that is very distinctive. Even bystanders, when I’ve tested blades they own, can tell immediately by the sound when a blade has lost that keenness. So could Maggie and Matt. I didn’t need to say a word about whether a cut was difficult or not… the sound pretty well says it all.

We started the tests with your Spirit blade. I wanted hands that weren’t tired from the cutting, so started fresh with Shiva’s knife. And if you haven’t done so, find some ¾ or 1 inch rope and cut it a few dozen times with your blade and see how your hand feels. At the end of the testing my hands were hurting more than a little… and I have pretty tough hands. You’ll see why they hurt when you see the amount of rope cut. Of the tests I routinely run on my blades, I hate cutting rope worst. UGH!! But it gives me the best read on edge retention that I’ve found. More on that later.

Here’s the rundown on the small Spirit, annotated as we went through the test.

100 cuts: Still cutting easily although cutting ability was dropping off just slightly. At about 60 cuts the blade had lost all shaving ability on arm hair… but this is not at all unusual. In all the testing I’ve ever undertaken, I’ve only tested a *very few* knives that would shave past 60 cuts in the rope. One of the knives was a Boye dendritic stainless and two were made of Damascus… with maybe another couple out of 0-1 and 1095. Ten licks each side of the blade on the leather strop I use (just a piece of leather glued to a flat steel plate with a very tiny bit of white diamond compound worked into the surface) easily brought the small Spirit back to shaving sharp.

160 cuts: The sharpness had fallen off enough so that the blade needed more stropping to cut cleanly through the rope. Ten licks on the strop each side of the blade and the small Spirit was shaving sharp again, but with just a bit of drag during the shaving. At 160 cuts the small Spirit lost all ability to cut into the rolled paper towel used to test for edge keenness that was mentioned earlier in the thread on the forum.

202 cuts: Cutting ability of the small Spirit had dropped way off and the blade was stropped, again easily taking a shaving edge (but with a bit more drag on the arm hair).

225 cuts: Cutting ability going quickly and on the last few cuts the rope had to be cut by sawing with the blade. Edge stropped back to shaving.

252 cuts: Cutting ability going quickly. Last few cuts required a sawing motion with the blade to sever the rope. Edge stropped back to shaving.

265 cuts: Edge is about dead for rope cutting since it now needed stropping on a much too frequent basis. Stropped back to shaving but with considerable drag on the arm hair being cut. Blade would not cut into the ‘edge’ of a cigarette paper no matter what angle the blade was held or the angle of the attempted cut.

Next up… the blade I’m working on for Matt Lamey

100 cuts: Still cutting very easily with no need to strop. Two passes made anyway on each side of the blade and the blade was back to shaving sharp. My blade, like Shiva’s, had lost the ability to shave arm hair (and that’s ‘shave’ and not ‘scrape’) around 60 cuts in the rope.

275 cuts: At this point in the test the blade was still cutting nicely and had required no stropping other than the bit of work at 100 cuts. Four passes each side of blade had the edge shaving sharp again with very little drag. Edge would not cut cupped cigarette paper. Edge would easily cut into the edge of a cigarette paper and would also cut into the paper towel roll on the end most distant from the fingers holding the roll, although the cut was not very smooth.

Test was discontinued at this point… and I’m about to go an a little rant (did I forget my 1100 AM meds??) And if you decide this part of the letter should be posted to the forum, the mods can do their job if I’m either stepping on toes or completely out of line.

Lest there be any catcalls and thrown tomatoes (either at Shiva OR me), let me state that I consider the small Spirit blade capable of taking and *holding* an *extraordinary* edge. And I’ll tell you why. I’ll even *show* you why if you’re ever in my shop. I have no intention of naming in a note that may be posted on the internet the names of knife makers… production, semi-production and custom (or at least a one man shop, whether or not they makes knives ‘to spec’) that cut so poorly as to make Shiva’s blade a stellar performer by comparison. I won’t name them, but as I said, I will *show* them if any of you who may read this (if Doug decides it should be posted).ever stop by… I’ve already invited a number of the folks on the forum to stop in for a visit if they're ever in the area.

Now… how about two customs I tested last year, one being a large and very nicely done Scagle style knife and made 5 (yep, five) cuts in the rope before it died?? The other, with a ten inch blade forged of 52100 (I’m not knocking the steel, I’m knocking the heat-treat) that, with an edge hair popping sharp, managed 0 (zero… not even ONE) cuts? These were multi-hundred dollar knives!! How about a very popular semi-production that (most of them I’ve been asked to test) will make between 15 and 50 cuts? How about two other customs (do any of you remember than my old business partner, Barbara Boatner, was a knife collector when I met her? I had lots of knives to test.), one of them a folder, that will make 2-5 cuts, depending on how generous I’m feeling? Cost of the folder (which was traded to me in new condition) was about $800 from the MS maker, IIRC, in maybe 1984. How about a production knife I tested a few months ago for a buddy that did about 50 cuts and cost about $50, I think? How about an inexpensive Old Hickory kitchen knife that will routinely do 20+ cuts? How about a junk Chinese cleaver that I bought at a flea market years ago that, when sharpened with a file and stropped on a piece of wood, will make 100 cuts in the rope, but would not shave at all even before making the first cut in the rope? Remember me going on about toothed edges?? This blade was definitely toothy.

One more bit and I’ll get off my soapbox, Doug. Doesn’t it seem that something is amiss when a ten dollar kitchen knife will by far out cut an $800 custom folder???

I ought to write a damned book. Call it, “I Carp”.

Some additional comments on the small Spirit blade. If you look back at one of my posts earlier in the thread… maybe in my first letter to you… you’ll find that I had more than a sneaking suspicion that the belted edge on Shiva’s blade would be fearsomely sharp when cutting rope, but that when the toothed edge degraded, it would do so fairly quickly and pretty decisively. That turned out to be the case. My ramble about the edge on the small Spirit was based on more than just ‘wishing and hoping’. I’ve edged a lot of blades in the distant past in exactly the same way… on a belt. At the time I had not found any (to me) better way to do the job. I’d be willing to bet that I can roll the edge on the small Spirit (although I’d hate to undertake that job because of the recurved area of the blade), thinning the metal just behind the edge… and then sharpening the blade with a diamond hone… and there would be very little difference in the cutting ability between the small Spirit an my blade, assuming same heat treat. But there’s no real need for doing that because Shiva and I are both fairly happy with our edges as they are.

And, yes, both blades were still shaving sharp after the test was concluded. So they must still be sharp?… right?… shaving means sharp, right?? Well… not here in my bamboo groves it doesn‘t. They both still have a very, very useful edge, but really sharp they’re not. Either blade could have had a sharper edge applied before the rope test. Gary Graley, Tai Goo, Cliff Stamp and a number of other guys are now playing with edges that Gary calls ‘treetop’ sharp. That means an edge will cut hair without having to press the hair against the skin. A cleaver does that very thing on the old cutting video of mine. Neither Shiva’s blade, nor mine started the cutting test that sharp, but they were ‘sharp enough’. Any blade I’ve ever tested will loose that ultra keen edge more quickly than it takes to get the edge that sharp in the first place… so I keep it simple and easy. I edge a knife in such a way that damn near anyone (once they work up their courage to dare tamper with the edge of a handmade knife!!!! Sacrilege!!!) can sharpen it in a couple minutes with a hone / stone and a bit of leather (leather wallet… side of a boot… rough side of a belt… all these will remove a wire edge, and I‘ve used them all at different times for the task)… with a final touch up on the cloth of a pair of jeans pulled tight across the thigh.

Something else to keep in mind is that the small Spirit is meant as a *fighter*. Such being the case, the thicker metal behind the edge which hinders cutting a bit is (I would guess) completely warranted as far as Shiva is concerned… because additional material = additional strength, assuming same blade steel and same heat treat.

The small Spirit blade was also put through a light chopping session. The results of that won’t be posted until probably next week. I have to finish up my own version of the blade and test it first… apples to apples, Doug. My hands are still cramping and bruised from the rope cutting and I’m beginning to sound like a grouch… so I’ll say goodbye for now.

Best regards,

Jimmy
 
Jimmy,

Would much appreciate on overall synopsis, much like you have just given to this segement of the test when all aspects of testing are completed.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
This is a great thread - Thanks for doing this, Jimmy & Leatherbird! I would be interested to hear much more from Jimmy. The scientific explanations of edge performance are interesting, but theory does not compare to real world performance tests.

And Jimmy, that blade is a beauty! I'll wait a few years for one and drive over to get it!

Thanks again, guys.
 
I'm really looking forward to pics of Jimmy's blades, both the one he used in this exercize, and the one he has on the bench...
 
Me too! if Jimmy wants, he can send them up for a visit and I'll take some
nice images for him! :)
G2
 
Gary Graley, Tai Goo, Cliff Stamp and a number of other guys are now playing with edges that Gary calls ‘treetop’ sharp. That means an edge will cut hair without having to press the hair against the skin. A cleaver does that very thing on the old cutting video of mine. Neither Shiva’s blade, nor mine started the cutting test that sharp, but they were ‘sharp enough’. Any blade I’ve ever tested will loose that ultra keen edge more quickly than it takes to get the edge that sharp in the first place… so I keep it simple and easy.

Hi Jimmy!

Thanks much for the play-by-play commentary on Doug's knife and Matt's knife. You're describing routine actions which would probably neuter most of my pocketknives. I've found, though, that if a maker grinds a knife thin enough, that tree-top sharpness will come from five minutes or less using two waterstones and a strop (mine's a piece of glass with 3M lapping film on it). If that's too complicated and expensive, a $6 DMT 1200 grit hone will do almost as good of a job (just not as fun as the waterstones). Just my two cents on those edges taking too long.
 
Hi Jimmy!

Thanks much for the play-by-play commentary on Doug's knife and Matt's knife. You're describing routine actions which would probably neuter most of my pocketknives. I've found, though, that if a maker grinds a knife thin enough, that tree-top sharpness will come from five minutes or less using two waterstones and a strop (mine's a piece of glass with 3M lapping film on it). If that's too complicated and expensive, a $6 DMT 1200 grit hone will do almost as good of a job (just not as fun as the waterstones). Just my two cents on those edges taking too long.

Hi, Thom

You're very welcome for the play-by-play. All the cutting except the rope would have been a lot of fun if I didn't have to write it up. From here on out, I'll be happy to fiddle around making knives and whacking on stuff and will gladly leave the write-ups to Cliff. ;) He does a fine job and is much more scientific in his approach. I've enjoyed reading his reviews and there is a lot of excellent info there.

I do realize that putting that final tree-top edge on a blade doesn't take very long. What I actually wrote was, "Any blade I’ve ever tested will lose that ultra keen edge more quickly than it takes to get the edge that sharp in the first place." And I'll stick to that. Let's take your figure of five minutes (give or take) to put on that ultra keen edge. My blades will not hold that degree of sharpness for half-minute of cutting in 3/4 inch manila rope... or bamboo... or anything that's really abrasive, and I've never had the opportunity to test any blade that will. So, IMO there's no need to make my blades that sharp to begin with other than for the gee whiz factor. I'm sure there are particular applications where such an edge might last long enough to make them worth the initial effort, but most of my work is aimed at pretty rough use.

I'll certrainly grant you that starting with an ultra sharp edge will allow for a very few more cuts in the rope, some bamboo, etc. But sharpening by hand from 'dull' (a relative term, of course... still shaving, but not shaving without a lot of drag, lets say) to as sharp as either Shiva's or my blade was at the beginning of these tests is a matter that literally takes two minutes. Two minutes sharpening for multiple hundreds of rope cuts... or add an additional five minutes of sharpening to be able to cut an additional 10 pieces of rope. Just not worth it for an old grouch like me.:grumpy:

Hope everything is well with you and Clan Brogan! :)

Jimmy
 
Jimmy,somehow I lost your Email addy and I Emailed ya' through Bladeforums,which has been hit and miss lately,need to forward ya' an Email from Shiva.
He may know you he just can't stick a face on you,he was ABS for 15 years and Guild for 8.
He'll explain.
Thanks! :D

Doug
 
Hi, All

I finally finished up the testing but probably won't have the info written up for a couple of days. I also have a few photos... the usual poor quality stuff. :D I'll ask GII to post those for me since I'm unable to figure out how to do it.

Brief summation: In a two horse race, it's a dead heat finish.;)

Old Tired Penniless Crazy Jimmy :grumpy:
 
Jimmy,somehow I lost your Email addy and I Emailed ya' through Bladeforums,which has been hit and miss lately,need to forward ya' an Email from Shiva.
He may know you he just can't stick a face on you,he was ABS for 15 years and Guild for 8.
He'll explain.
Thanks! :D

Doug

Hi, Doug

Email is OleyFermo@aol.com

Will be nice to chat with Shiva. Email might be just the thing for two hermits.:D Feel free to pass along my email address to Shiva.

I don't remember meeting Shiva and I imagine that he would be a memorable fellow. I was only with the ABS a very short time before resigning as a member in good standing and turning in my MS stamp. I was one of the original five mastersmiths and the very first one to bid the organization a fond adieu. Never was a Guild member. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm a loner, a troublemaker and a ne'er-do-well.

Jimmy

Advertisement: Anyone who would care to make a donation (ten grand minumum... no need to be a tightwad) to the Old Retired Jimmy Fund, please feel free to contact me for directions on how best to deposit monies into my Swiss account. In return you will receive your very own personalized pic of me attempting to enjoy myself at various vacation spots around the globe. In addition you will also receive a card (written by me) each holiday season detailing my progress in learning the art of 'having fun'. Don't allow money to become a lifetime burden for you. Instead give until it hurts. This is a limited time offer, so please hurry! :thumbup: ;)
 
Two minutes sharpening for multiple hundreds of rope cuts... or add an additional five minutes of sharpening to be able to cut an additional 10 pieces of rope. Just not worth it for an old grouch like me.

Hope everything is well with you and Clan Brogan!

All's great over here. Today's my wifey's birthday and it's been a very great day.

The 'gee whiz' factor is too strong a draw for me. Sure, I carry either a two grit ceramic stick or two grit diamond in my pocket, but always want my knives to be kosher quality when I leave the basement. Just in case I have to slaughter an animal for lunch with my pocketknife. That sort of situation happens at my work (noc technician) with surprizing frequency.

Best wishes to Clan Fikes and the Royal Footer.
 
Okay, folks...

Here’s the rest of the report on the cutting tests. I sent a copy along to Doug prior to posting this and he asked me to post the info unedited. When doing a final read-over, I did change a word or two for clarity, but none of the actual info. I'll also be sending a few photos to G2 who has kindly offered to post them for me.

I'll have to admit that the testing was a lot of fun, although the report writing was not. I've tried to be as accurate with the information I've given as possible without taking too much time or space. That's not an easy task... at least not for me. I'll also say that Shiva's toothy edge held up better than I expected... although I did expect it to be hell-for-sharp at the start of the tests. I wouldn't be surprised if there aren't belted edges on some of my knives in the future. It's been a very long time since I'd put an edge on that way, and frankly, my poor old arms and hands are *begging me* to throw away the diamond hones altogether.

Break out your salt shakers so you can take a grain of the stuff with anything I've written. Those health conscious individuals reading this shall be permitted the use of a salt substitute or real 'sea salt'.

Jimmy

...........................................

A little information about the knives being tested:

Blade dimensions for Shiva‘s small Spirit blade: Blade thickness at the ricasso is .24 inches. Blade width is 1.780 inches at the end of the edge nearest the guard, narrowing to 1.65 in the deepest area of the recurve and continuing to narrow toward the tip. Blade length from tip to face of guard is 8 inches. Bevel is ground the full width of the blade. Distal taper is almost full length of blade.

Blade dimensions for the piece I’m working on: Blade thickness where the cord wrap will begin (approximate area) is .255 inches. Width of blade at end nearest handle is 1.91 inches, and 1.93 inches in the same area where the small Spirit blade narrows in the recurve. Blade length to beginning of where the wrap will begin is 8 inches give or take an 1/8 inch. Overall, my knife is about 1/4 inch longer than Shiva’s small Spirit. Width of bevel is 1.32 inches. Almost no distal taper until the last 3 ½ inches of blade nearest the tip. My knife is noticeably heavier than the small Spirit blade… 3 to 4 ounces would be a good guess… and the cord wrap will add another ounce or two. The weight difference is due to my blade being wider, thicker and with less distal taper (and a more narrow blade bevel) and from having a full tang. I could get rid of at least a couple of ounces of weight by drilling out the tang of the knife, but prefer the 'weight in hand’ to keep the piece from being too blade heavy.

Rope cutting with my version of the small Spirit blade:

When testing this particular knife of mine, cutting rope, it cut *less* well than the knife I am making for Matt Lamey... the blade I had used in the side-by-side test . I had to strop the blade three times during the course of making 275 cuts… once at 100 cuts and twice thereafter to be sure of clean and complete cuts. Once I’d finished with the rope there was very little difference between the sharpness of this blade and the Shiva small Spirit in terms of cutting the rolled paper towel.

I expect the blade to pick up a bit in the area of edge holding during a second and third sharpening. They usually do, although I can only make educated guesses as to why that happens. The blade shape will also be refined during subsequent polishing… and this will help a bit with ease of cutting, too. But I certainly don’t expect any vast improvement… maybe a few percentage points. The improvement certainly wouldn’t make any appreciable difference in these tests.

Cutting a 2 X 6

Since I had plenty of 2 X 6 lumber lying around, but no 2 X 4’s, one of the 2 X 6’s was used for the test. I should mention that these are relatively small blades for chopping lumber (especially considering how ‘weight to the rear’ the pointed profiles cause the blades to be), and that no effort was made to ‘speed cut’. I told Doug that the chopping would be done at a sedate pace, just as though I had a whole pile of 2 X 6’s to go through and didn’t want to waste all my energy on the first one.

Since Matt Lamey was still visiting at the time of the 2 X 6 test, he volunteered to do the cutting with the small Spirit blade. Plodding along, it took Matt two minutes, forty-three seconds to cut through the board. When I later tested my blade, time was just at three minutes even when I picked up my watch to check. Cuts were kept fairly narrow… a ‘V’ that was only three inches wide at the top.

Time was not a critical factor here, the important thing being how well the blades bit into the wood and how comfortable the knives were when used to hack into fairly hard material. My knife bit a little better than the small Spirit, although you’d have to be a real ‘nut for cutting’ to have noticed the difference. The reason, I’m sure, was (once again) the thickness of the blade just behind the edge on the small Spirit and the weight difference. Both blades made it through the 2 X 6 with no damage… except that I managed to drop my blade point first onto the steel legs of my freestanding vise, putting two extremely tiny nicks in the edge of the blade on the upsweep toward the tip. (I should be a professional Idiot… I‘d get rich.). After cutting through the 2 X 6, both blades would still shave arm hair and neither had been sharpened (other than stropping) since starting the rope cut.

There was a rather big surprise in the area of handle comfort, or lack thereof, with Shiva’s small Spirit. I realize that handle shape is a subjective thing in many ways. Some people like the way one handle shape feels and some prefer another shape. But when a handle causes a considerable amount of pain while cutting, that’s not so good. The handle on Shiva’s knife is extremely comfortable to *hold*, but chopping into the 2 X 6 (when the handle was held near the butt, but in a full four-fingered grip) caused it to rotate into the fingers hard enough to cause quite a bit of pain to the pinkie and ring finger. Matt and I both found this to be so. He chopped through the board, but I did a bit of chopping after he’d finished to find out for myself what he was talking about regarding the handle. The only comfortable way either of us could find to chop when using the small Spirit was with the hand choked up all the way against the guard… and even then the guard didn't feel at all pleasant against the forefinger or the web between thumb and finger. During subsequent cutting with the small Spirit in green wood, or even in bamboo, the handle shape did not cause any pain at all. I believe that the handle ‘shape’ per se was not the problem… and that the same handle on a larger blade (such as Shiva’s large Spirit blade) would provide a grip that was both comfortable and secure. I believe the problem was encountered because, when a light blade is whacked into a piece of kiln dried wood the blade doesn’t want to penetrate to any depth no matter how sharp the edge, and comes to a stop very suddenly. As a consequence, the forces in play cause the handle to rotate downward… thus delivering a pretty good smack to the two fingers nearest the end of the handle. Obviously, when a chop was made, the further toward the blade point (away from the ‘sweet spot’), the impact of blade / wood occurred, the greater the impact of the handle against the fingers. This is true of all knives, but especially knives with long tapered points… and even more true with a knife as light for it’s size as the small Spirit.

The same issue was present with the handle (What handle?? There was only a tang.) on my knife, but to a much lesser degree. These are only guesses on my part, but I would say that the extra few ounces of overall weight helped… as did the ‘more weight forward’ design which provides a wider sweet spot, and a sweet spot that’s not located just in the two inches of blade directly in front of the guard as was the case with the small Spirit.

Onward to shearing off tree limbs!

I had originally intended to cut a few limbs and let it go at that since I didn’t expect any edge / blade damage nor any significant edge dulling when the blades were used against green wood. Instead I spent close to forty-five minutes cutting this and that just because I find a lot of fun in the doing of it. The ‘painful finger’ issue with Shiva’s small spirit vanished once I was no longer using the knife in a manner for which it was not intended… chopping lumber… and it was a pleasure to use, although still a bit light for my preference. My blade would sever a larger limb / stem than the small Spirit, but I attribute much of that to the weight difference... some to blade balance. I didn’t take a tape measure down into the woods with me, but would guess the largest limb sheared cleanly would be near the one and a half inch mark with all cuts being as close to forty-five degrees as I could make them.

I had not intended to cut any bamboo so as to avoid any possibility of damaging Doug’s knife, but came to the conclusion that I’d do a bit of ‘boo cutting anyway. At this point in the testing I had plenty of faith in Shiva’s blade… and wanted something cut for the purpose of taking a few photos. Both blades cut the bamboo equally well (considering weight difference) when I did my part. G2 has kindly agreed to post the photos. You need not worry that you’ll fall over in a faint due to my exceptional skill with a camera! Lousy shots from me, as usual. It send along a caption to go with each photo so you know what you’re looking at.

After all the testing, I gave both blades a good stropping and both will still shave… more easily on the parts of the blade that did not do the rope cutting. Neither knife sustained any damage except the dings from me dropping my blade on the vise leg. Both edges are still sharp enough so that I would consider them as being very useful for everyday tasks.

Conclusion drawn from the tests?? There’s not a nickel’s worth of difference in original sharpness or in edge holding between the small Spirit from Shiva and the similar blade I made. Any real world difference would really be ‘splitting hairs’… and, yes, the pun is intended. Quite frankly, I’m glad this is the case. I was cautioned by more than one well intentioned person that testing one of my blades against a blade forged by another smith was tantamount to ‘suicide’ on the Forum, and in the knife world in general. If I found my blade to be the better of the two, I would be called a liar! If I found Shiva’s blade to be better (and said so) then I’d be thought a ‘poor smith and an idiot’. It was going to be a ‘no win’ situation!! Bull-puckies, I said… and still say. I may never deliver a knife on time, or even deliver one at all, but I do have a reputation for honesty when asked to give my opinion (and facts) about knives… and I don’t give a hoot about whose knives they are. And... I give all of you folks credit for being able to separate ‘opinions’ from ‘facts’. I believe I’ve clearly differentiated between the two.

(edited to add: I would never have agreed to test Shiva's blade if I hadn't thought there was a very good chance it would do extremely well in the tests. I'll also add that if I were a knife collector, I'd test the first blade I bought from any given maker... assuming the knife was a 'user'... before I ever bought a second.)

All in all, I prefer my design for a long list of reasons, just as Shiva would almost certainly prefer his design for his own list of reasons. But differences in tastes are a large part of what makes the world go ‘round. I’ll be interested in hearing Doug’s report when he tests both knives. For me all such testing is a learning experience.

(As an afterthought I decided to try to shave 'muh face' instead of my arm with my blade... with the edge just as it was after the final testing and stropping... with no re-sharpening on a hone. Every few days my face begins to resemble a fuzzy cactus because I DO NOT like shaving. Anyway, I lathered up and scraped both sides of my face clean of whiskers easily enough AND without losing an ear in the process. I had enough sense not to try working on my chin or throat. The shave wasn't what I would call pleasant, but wasn't all that painful, either. To hold the knife, I choked way up on the blade with my fingers only on the spine and sides of the blade... nowhere near the edge. One of these days I'll have to make myself a straight razor and give that a try.)

Fire away if you have any questions. I'll attempt to answer them.

Jimmy ;)
 
No questions here. Great reporting Jimmy. I, for one, appreciate it, particularly in light of the mystique surrounding Shiva's blades. I own a Spirit blade and I've had an opportunity to talk to him a few times and found him to be quite a unique personality and a pleasure to talk to. I've been impressed with the edge on the Spirit blade as well as it's durability. I've been similarly impressed with those characterisitcs of a tanto that you made (my avatar). It's cool to see the test results by someone who knows alot about edge construction and cutting. Thanks again!
 
When real hard work came up, you tricked Matt Lamey into performing it. Typical Jimmy Fikes. :p
Interesting report Jimmy, VERY interesting. Thanks :thumbup:
 
When real hard work came up, you tricked Matt Lamey into performing it. Typical Jimmy Fikes. :p
Interesting report Jimmy, VERY interesting. Thanks :thumbup:

Tricked? TRICKED??? I 'persuaded' Matt to practice his cutting. I 'allowed' him the privilige of making the cut. No, no... that's not right, either. Matt, being the mean, nasty scoundrel that he is didn't need to be persuaded or allowed. Oh, no. He just snatched the knife out of my palsied hand, screaming, "Out of the way, old man!!!" Yes... that's the way it was, exactly. I remember now. :grumpy:

First Matt hurts my feelings, and now you, Flavius. One of these days you guys are going to pusH Me RIGHT OVER THE EDGE.....

Old 'Don't Touch Me While I'm Screaming' Jimmy ;)
 
thanks jimmy, that's a most interesting report, and it will keep me busy next weekend! manila rope... how am i supposed to explain that to my girlfriend :o

hans
 
No questions here. Great reporting Jimmy. I, for one, appreciate it, particularly in light of the mystique surrounding Shiva's blades. I own a Spirit blade and I've had an opportunity to talk to him a few times and found him to be quite a unique personality and a pleasure to talk to. I've been impressed with the edge on the Spirit blade as well as it's durability. I've been similarly impressed with those characterisitcs of a tanto that you made (my avatar). It's cool to see the test results by someone who knows alot about edge construction and cutting. Thanks again!

Xuesheng,

You're quite welcome for the reporting. ;) I've got a letter started that I'll send off to Shiva. I'd certainly enjoy it if I could coax him into posting on the Forum here. That might stir up some dialogue about what's sharp and what's not. :D

Jimmy
 
thanks jimmy, that's a most interesting report, and it will keep me busy next weekend! manila rope... how am i supposed to explain that to my girlfriend :o

hans

Hans,

You know better than to try to explain something like cutting manila rope to a woman. Just get a glazed look in you eye and mumble, "Must cut rope. Muuuust cut rope or Jimmy and Maggie are coming for a visit."

You'll get the rope.:thumbup:

Old Sly Jimmy
 
Thanks for taking the time to type all this up to share with us, Jimmy. It's great to see this stuff coming from a maker.


I have no intention of naming in a note that may be posted on the internet the names of knife makers… production, semi-production and custom (or at least a one man shop, whether or not they makes knives ‘to spec’) that cut so poorly as to make Shiva’s blade a stellar performer by comparison.
Now… how about two customs I tested last year, one being a large and very nicely done Scagle style knife and made 5 (yep, five) cuts in the rope before it died?? The other, with a ten inch blade forged of 52100 (I’m not knocking the steel, I’m knocking the heat-treat) that, with an edge hair popping sharp, managed 0 (zero… not even ONE) cuts? ... How about an inexpensive Old Hickory kitchen knife that will routinely do 20+ cuts? How about a junk Chinese cleaver that I bought at a flea market years ago that, when sharpened with a file and stropped on a piece of wood, will make 100 cuts in the rope, but would not shave at all even before making the first cut in the rope? Remember me going on about toothed edges?? This blade was definitely toothy.

Not asking you to name names here or anything, but I'm curious about whether the above performance only pertained to the initial edge supplied by the maker. (?) Wouldn't the customs have performed better if reprofiled and sharpened with a more appropriate edge? You mentioned a heat treating problem, but man, that would have to be one serious problem if a "junk Chinese cleaver" could beat 'em. I too have noticed the way toothy edges seem to keep cutting even after they'll no longer shave, and prefer very coarse edges for certain applications.

Jimmy Fikes said:
I could get rid of at least a couple of ounces of weight by drilling out the tang of the knife, but prefer the 'weight in hand’ to keep the piece from being too blade heavy.

...There was a rather big surprise in the area of handle comfort, or lack thereof, with Shiva’s small Spirit. ...when a handle causes a considerable amount of pain while cutting, that’s not so good. The handle on Shiva’s knife is extremely comfortable to *hold*, but chopping into the 2 X 6 (when the handle was held near the butt, but in a full four-fingered grip) caused it to rotate into the fingers hard enough to cause quite a bit of pain to the pinkie and ring finger. ...I believe that the handle ‘shape’ per se was not the problem… and that the same handle on a larger blade (such as Shiva’s large Spirit blade) would provide a grip that was both comfortable and secure. I believe the problem was encountered because, when a light blade is whacked into a piece of kiln dried wood the blade doesn’t want to penetrate to any depth no matter how sharp the edge, and comes to a stop very suddenly. As a consequence, the forces in play cause the handle to rotate downward… thus delivering a pretty good smack to the two fingers nearest the end of the handle. Obviously, when a chop was made, the further toward the blade point (away from the ‘sweet spot’), the impact of blade / wood occurred, the greater the impact of the handle against the fingers. This is true of all knives, but especially knives with long tapered points… and even more true with a knife as light for it’s size as the small Spirit.

The same issue was present with the handle (What handle?? There was only a tang.) on my knife, but to a much lesser degree. These are only guesses on my part, but I would say that the extra few ounces of overall weight helped… as did the ‘more weight forward’ design which provides a wider sweet spot, and a sweet spot that’s not located just in the two inches of blade directly in front of the guard as was the case with the small Spirit.

I'm very pleased to see this topic touched on. It's one I've been very interested in for some time now. I like the way you've described it in easy to follow language. (much better than I can do)

Yes, impacts cause the knife to rotate, and where it rotates depends on where the impact occurs and how the mass is distributed through the blade and handle. (dynamic balance) If you make the blade rotate very far away from your grip, you can get painful shock to the hand, as you noted. This makes perfect sense given that you related the sweet spot is only 2 inches ahead of the guard. It's not so much the weight, but how that weight is distributed. You can easily make large changes in the location of the sweet spot and subsequent rotational centers with fairly subtle changes in mass distribution.

My big bowie knife has a long tapered point, but it's distal impact node is at the very tip. This means I can strike all the way up to the tip with full power, without sacrificing power further back, no hand shock, and a whole host of other benefits.
 
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