Crosscut Saw Thread

Here are some pictures Trail Time. No way to see the very faint etch though. In the secound picture you may be able to see the square with a C in it.

P1010006-008.JPG


P1010007-005.JPG
 
I picked this saw up a few years back at a flea market. Fortunately whoever sharpened it last time knew what they were doing. It makes the "noodles" you fellers talk about.

This Disston has a 42" blade. The etch is still partly visible but is hard to photograph. It's a cuttin' dude.

saw_zpsbfea1edc.jpg


sawhandle_zps0324dc36.jpg


sawetch_zps62fcd79c.jpg


I've never sharpened a saw but I suppose I'll have to learn. I've also got a two man saw that is in good shape, but needs to be sharpened. No etch or name on it anywhere but it appears to be good quality. It was my grandfather's. Of course it's a two man saw which requires a volunteer to man the other side...
 
Nice saw Cooter. I couldn't be so lucky. Got to learn everything the hard way.
OK guys. I filed it today. Got the rakers swaged. I am sure I made some mistakes but I am not yet smart enough to know what they are. I can say for sure that my cutters are taller than my rakers:). Going to try and get a spider made thursday. Plan on using this saw for hard wood. Where should I be for set? It is a flat saw.
 
With a flat saw I'd be a little generous on the set - maybe 16/1000. If you're cutting strictly hardwood you could probably go a little lower - maybe 12/1000. Raker height for hardwood should be .008 to .012 below the cutters.
 
garry3 said:
Nice saw Cooter. I couldn't be so lucky. Got to learn everything the hard way.
OK guys. I filed it today. Got the rakers swaged. I am sure I made some mistakes but I am not yet smart enough to know what they are. I can say for sure that my cutters are taller than my rakers:). Going to try and get a spider made thursday. Plan on using this saw for hard wood. Where should I be for set? It is a flat saw.
Click to expand...

One man saws have some tool considerations that should be considered when using gauges made for larger saws. You may have stumbled on this video in your saw search, but if not, pay attention to how the various gauges sit on the cutter teeth when filing rakers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrYsFlx3OSY
 
Square_peg said:
With a flat saw I'd be a little generous on the set - maybe 16/1000. If you're cutting strictly hardwood you could probably go a little lower - maybe 12/1000. Raker height for hardwood should be .008 to .012 below the cutters.
Click to expand...

I am to low on my rakers. My set is about right.
 
trailtime said:
One man saws have some tool considerations that should be considered when using gauges made for larger saws. You may have stumbled on this video in your saw search, but if not, pay attention to how the various gauges sit on the cutter teeth when filing rakers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrYsFlx3OSY
Click to expand...
It kicked my @-- Trail Time. I struggled with my gauge. Infact it did not work at all. This saw is not that far off. I think I will get another gage that will work and start from the beginning again. My raker height is inconsistant and to deep.
Life is to short to use tools that ain't right.
 
garry3 said:
It kicked my @-- Trail Time. I struggled with my gauge. Infact it did not work at all. This saw is not that far off. I think I will get another gage that will work and start from the beginning again. My raker height is inconsistant and to deep.
Life is to short to use tools that ain't right.
Click to expand...

The two smaller gauges work well with small one man saws. They sell for cheap on Ebay because most new filers want to buy the big ones shown in books. They may not fit right if you've already put set in the teeth though. Raker filing is done before tooth setting.

Here are three gauges for comparison including an Anderson gauge for big saws:

P1000150_zps61800592.jpg


Both smaller ones can be used as jointers and raker gauges, but the Simonds #550 has a better filing plate:

P1000148_zps1e003be0.jpg

P1000149_zpsa5995355.jpg
 
trailtime said:
The two smaller gauges work well with small one man saws. They sell for cheap on Ebay because most new filers want to buy the big ones shown in books. They may not fit right if you've already put set in the teeth though. Raker filing is done before tooth setting.

Here are three gauges for comparison including an Anderson gauge for big saws:

P1000150_zps61800592.jpg


Both smaller ones can be used as jointers and raker gauges, but the Simonds #550 has a better filing plate:

P1000148_zps1e003be0.jpg

P1000149_zpsa5995355.jpg
Click to expand...

I have not seen that type before. The kind I thought would work for me had the raker gage file height adjusted by a wedge shaped piece of metal on each side of the tool. I can see for sure that little Simons is what I need.
I have made some tools the last couple days that will help also. That video link that you posted is how I went about it.
My plan now is run a jointer over the saw and start over. I don't have alot of steel to file but it will take me a little while. I am a little smarter than when I first started:).
I need to come up with a better hammer and anvil. Any recomendations?
 
garry3 said:
I need to come up with a better hammer and anvil. Any recomendations?
Click to expand...

I made my anvil from an old hammer head ground flat against the side of a grinding wheel. A tinner's hammer or the flat face of a small ballpein hammer can be ground into a setting hammer shape. Your saw has small teeth, so the hammer face needs to be small enough not to strike the other teeth when setting. Practice with the end teeth first. If you chip one, it won't effect the saw's performance.
 
OK, Thanks for your help Trail time and Square Peg. I know this saw would be way small for what you guys are doing but its going to serve my needs very well.
Hope to have this saw refiled this weekend. If it is not as good as I can make it I will do it again:thumbup:.
I picked up another one of the same size a few days ago. Its a no name with pererated lance teeth. I am going to soak it in vinegar to remove some rust.
 
For trail work or something, yes 36" is very small. I filed several 36" saws for a fella last year, and could hardly let go of them though. one in particular was a little perforated lance tooth, thin stock but real stiff and cut so beautiful. They are great for cutting firewood and stuff, which is what I use mine for mainly. Along with felling. and bucking. well, I guess thats quite a bit comparatively speaking (don't own a chainsaw, just 50 axes and about 20 saws).
 
Square_peg said:
Wow! Bunch of felling saws there. What the heck is that bottom saw?
Click to expand...

Drag saw blades I think?Took them all, price was right
The fallers are nice,no pitting,should clean up.
The broke off bucker,I will cut down for a single bucker.

The Champion tooth bucker,2 ribbon saws,and the 2 small saws will be looking for new homes.
The small buckers would be good a project for someone to file in new teeth,not much left.

Going out to NJ to work in the great swamp wilderness for a week.When I get back plan on building a electrolysis cleaner
to speed up the cleaning.

http://crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=465
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top