Crosscut Saw Thread

Also Peg, I should have clarified in my last post, by "looks sharp" I just meant everything done to the blade looks very deliberate and uniform. Wether or not it cuts is a different story.
 
Yes, this upper one, single sawer version, is the saw I have, quite nice and simple in maintenance, good for round, green woods hard or not, less good, or let me say not so nice for sawing dry wood where you get a very rough end-grain from the cut.

E.DB.
 
I've always wanted a crosscut saw and found this but not sure which tooth pattern to go with. Anybody have advice? I would use it in hardwood mostly.

What's the diameter of the biggest log you expect to buck? Will you be single or double bucking? In two-man mode the saw should be at least twice the diameter of the log, though if single bucking you can pull the blade back through the kerf and get by with a smaller saw. The tuttle-tooth saw will work better in larger logs, though you will probably have to get it filed. I doubt it will come from the factory set and filed properly.

I've seen plenty of YouTube videos of guys bragging about their new "sharp" saws as they gnaw through some tiny log making powdery sawdust instead of noodles.
 
Yeah they're stamped. I own a similar saw in Tuttle that Traditional Woodworker sells. Honestly not a bad saw, cuts ok, set is about average with raker height not too aggressive. It's a great saw if you're not big into buying vintage and learning how to file yourself.

John
 
I'm a beginner with crosscut saws, I worked in the bush for about 12 years only with a chain saw. This would be a first saw, I just want something to have fun and learn with. Seem to me a one man with the great american style teeth might be the way to go as they will be easier to sharpen for a beginner. This may lead to hunting down a good vintage saw or saws eventually.
 
I've always wanted a crosscut saw and found this but not sure which tooth pattern to go with. Anybody have advice? I would use it in hardwood mostly.
http://www.canadianoutdoorequipment.com/store/one-man-crosscut-saw-by-wilhelm-putsch-900mm-35.html
Or maybe one of these
http://www.canadianoutdoorequipment.com/store/two-man-crosscut-saw-by-wilhelm-putsch.html

The Tuttle pattern is for hardwoods and will also work o soft woods. Be careful, as I have read that these "new" saws are not set and sharpened. They need work out of the box to cut effectively.

Tom
 
Yeah they're stamped. I own a similar saw in Tuttle that Traditional Woodworker sells. Honestly not a bad saw, cuts ok, set is about average with raker height not too aggressive. It's a great saw if you're not big into buying vintage and learning how to file yourself.

John

I've seen many references to the German saws, but have never used one. I would like to sharpen one just to see how the steel will swage and take a file. I will offer to file and set a Putsch tuttle-tooth saw for the cost of return shipping and insurance if you want to send me one. If not, this offer holds for other BF members, though I will only do one saw.

Early bird gets the sharp saw.
 
You can purchase the saw with the teeth set and hand filed or with the teeth with a basic bevel that needs to be sharpened. I will certainly have to learn. I always freehand filed my saw chain but this will be a new learning experience.
 
Trailtime: Thanks for the offer, but no need. To be clear, I was describing the saw when I got it. I have since touched up the cutters and leveled a couple of the rakers. Cuts pretty well now, good noodles for a tuttle tooth. I've used it on cedar, pine and a little bit of oak. Did well on most of it. The steel feels good, and edge retention is solid after a good deal of sawing. I have been very careful to preserve the teeth though.
 
Humbly disagree with you, if that means what I think it means.

I just mean that there is very little commercial incentive to manufacture new crosscut saws. Other than a few individuals like us that would buy them because we like hand tools, nobody else uses them. Chainsaws are the norm except for crews clearing trails in wilderness areas. It's hard to maintain production facilities for a few hundred or thousand saws per year. Most of us are buying vintage tools.
 
Not long ago, July or so, I went to see the good saw doctor Nagatsu Shōichi 長津勝 give his demo on sharpening, free-handing it all the way.

free screen capture software

But to be fair he is the master of metate in Japan after 60 years of effort.

The maintenance of this saw is one reason I got it and there is the option of getting it hand tuned, as mentioned, from the factory so you have a reference right there to begin with. The other old saw I have is for two sawyers but I have sharpened it some and in comparison the steel on this new one is harder in filing.

E.DB.
PS I have no idea what that link under the picture is so take heed, something that comes along with the questionable picture hoster I am currently using.
 
Great photo, Ernest. Yeah, I guess with no radius and no rakers a skilled filer could do the job.



Here's something a few of you sawyers will recognize.

Bucking%20wedge.jpg
 
I use mine for hanging wedges to stabilize trees that may twist. Also effective in holding the kerf in frozen wood that would spit a plastic wedge.

P1000046_zps6bb9f96b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Picked these up today. A couple have a protective coating on them. Also a crudely engraved "ARMY". One had the protective coating remover so it has a little rust.
The lance tooth ones are Disston no 214, the tuttle tooth I have not identified.
001.JPG

004.JPG
 
They are fresh Square peg, I don't believe they have been used at all. The lance tooth ones are 5" and the champion or tuttle is 5' 6". Small fellers.
Anyone know the age of these Disston's ?
 
Back
Top