Crosscut Saw Thread

That was backcountry. Nobody packs 'suds' up there without a mule or pack horse. However the thinnest lightest 20 ounce water bottle ended up in my pack full of my favorite bourbon. No idea how it got in there ( ;) ) but it made 3 nights on the trail more bearable.
 
Square_peg said:
That was backcountry. Nobody packs 'suds' up there without a mule or pack horse. However the thinnest lightest 20 ounce water bottle ended up in my pack full of my favorite bourbon. No idea how it got in there ( ;) ) but it made 3 nights on the trail more bearable.
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Gee whiz! Overproof navy rum decanted into unbreakable mickey bottles were often joyfully-discovered ballast at the bottom of my 'work party' packs eons ago. Dilution with stream water thinned it into flavourful cold drinks and the alcohol was practical insurance against beaver fever bacteria.
 
Square_peg said:
Great video.

Have to wonder why the top was wedged. That kerf should have been opening at the bottom and the saw falling free. If the bottom wasn't opening then it didn't need to be underbucked. And it might have opened if the top wasn't wedged.

Then there's the misaligned cut, no doubt from trying to match the bottom cut to the top cut instead of the other way around. Then he cuts 4" past the top cut.

Too many errors there to say which was most critical. Who was the sawyer in charge?
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Cycling through the stills you can see how the wedges appear to be driven into the saw teeth on the way down. Even if the fall was more controlled, it seems like this is a good way to damage your saw. So there must be a good reason to wedge the top but I don't see it. And when people say he "crossed his kerf" what are they referring to? Not the fact that he offset the bottom to the top, that was intentional?

That cutter was lucky to avoid some serious injury.
 
Blue Sky said:
And when people say he "crossed his kerf" what are they referring to?
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We're talking about one kerf passing beyond where the other kerf has already cut so that some wood fibers are cut twice. At this point the saw is up into the top half of the cut where the bind is greatest.
 
Actually I meant that the undercut on the sawyers side was offset to the left of the top cut but somewhere in the middle of the log the undercut crossed to the right of the top cut. The saw was supported by the underbucker on the stable side of the log but was beneath the offset on the drop side. When the log dropped, it captured the saw, which had crossed over (under) from one side of the top kerf to the other.
 
This is what I meant:

oZqCKGI.jpg
 
trailtime said:
This is what I meant:

oZqCKGI.jpg
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That's a big log and also looks to be of the Red Oak variety. Meaning there was considerable effort/work involved in sawing it up. Wonderful handle material for somebody were 16" not the standard 'bucking' length for timber at the limit of becoming 'too heavy'.
 
trailtime said:
Actually I meant that the undercut on the sawyers side was offset to the left of the top cut but somewhere in the middle of the log the undercut crossed to the right of the top cut. The saw was supported by the underbucker on the stable side of the log but was beneath the offset on the drop side. When the log dropped, it captured the saw, which had crossed over (under) from one side of the top kerf to the other.
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Perfect, thank you :thumbsup:
 
Here's the vide portion of that earlier pic. You can see the crossed kerf on the exposed end. The undercut was made to prevent slabbing and not used as the release cut, which was done from the top. I also made a small undercut when I singled bucked the hanging piece, and you can see the lower kerf close and the log sag just a little before it snaps off.

 
Wanted to share a value I learned when I was but a wee lad...talking and listening to people, establishing relationships and contacts.
Last Friday I was in a gentleman's garage sale, I had asked about axes and hatchets. He had a large two man saw on the wall so I asked if he had other's. We got to small talking and he took my name and number.
Called me yesterday, I am headed there this morning to look at a saw he had in the basement.
May not be anything but it could be...and at the least it may lead to other opportunities for each of us.

I am still working on learning which are the best tools to find and buy to use on my plain tooth one man.
If any one has suggestions or recommendations from experience that would be greatly welcomed.
 
Miller '72 said:
I am still working on learning which are the best tools to find and buy to use on my plain tooth one man.
If any one has suggestions or recommendations from experience that would be greatly welcomed.
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Only three basic tools needed to file a plain tooth saw -- jointer to make all the teeth the same length, file to sharpen each tooth, and a spider to measure the set of each tooth. A small hammer and an hand anvil (which can be any hammer head) to bend/set the teeth. You can make a jointer by cutting a kerf in a small board deep enough to hold a file perpendicular to the blade.

Discussion from crosscutsawyer.com: http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=683&hilit=Disston+964&start=10#p2954
 
Miller '72 said:
I am still working on learning which are the best tools to find and buy to use on my plain tooth one man.
If any one has suggestions or recommendations from experience that would be greatly welcomed.
Click to expand...

The Simonds #342 combination jointer/raker gauge is an easy to use and versatile tool. You can use it to joint your plain tooth saw and later use it for lance tooth or champion saws. Instructions for use are on the web. You can make your own spider. Any small hammer can be used to set the teeth. A large rounded hammer face (un-handled) makes a fine anvil for setting. Good lighting and good files make your life easy.

A pair of tri-squares can show you the bumps and bends in your saw (hang it, handle off). A cast iron table saw top makes an adequate saw anvil. Some bumps will hammer out better on a softer wooden surface.
 
trailtime said:
Only three basic tools needed to file a plain tooth saw -- jointer to make all the teeth the same length, file to sharpen each tooth, and a spider to measure the set of each tooth. A small hammer and an hand anvil (which can be any hammer head) to bend/set the teeth. You can make a jointer by cutting a kerf in a small board deep enough to hold a file perpendicular to the blade.

Discussion from crosscutsawyer.com: http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=683&hilit=Disston+964&start=10#p2954
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link and most thanks for the advice on tools needed and how to make do making my own. Greatly appreciated

Square_peg said:
The Simonds #342 combination jointer/raker gauge is an easy to use and versatile tool. You can use it to joint your plain tooth saw and later use it for lance tooth or champion saws. Instructions for use are on the web. You can make your own spider. Any small hammer can be used to set the teeth. A large rounded hammer face (un-handled) makes a fine anvil for setting. Good lighting and good files make your life easy.

A pair of tri-squares can show you the bumps and bends in your saw (hang it, handle off). A cast iron table saw top makes an adequate saw anvil. Some bumps will hammer out better on a softer wooden surface.
Click to expand...

Thank you too for similar tool advice and giving me a look to future needs as well.

Thank you both.

I do have a saw, 4/5' champion tooth two man, I have my sights on from a gentleman I just met a few days back and then went to visit again today. The Simmonds combo guage is the direction I was leaning toward, thinking of future saws.
Apparently he has a few other saws in the basement as well.
I hope to go see him again mid to end of the week for the champion tooth and see possibly what else he may uncover for me.
He told me he didn't have any axes or hatchets but I came home from todays visit with these...

IMG_20171106_125429146.jpg


4' Disston (on the handle)
3lb. 28" Craftsman

This is the saw I may go back for but really want to see what else he has to show me from his basement...so I may get this saw plus ;):)

IMG_20171106_101338294.jpg
 
Square_peg said:
The Simonds #342 combination jointer/raker gauge is an easy to use and versatile tool. You can use it to joint your plain tooth saw and later use it for lance tooth or champion saws. Instructions for use are on the web. You can make your own spider. Any small hammer can be used to set the teeth. A large rounded hammer face (un-handled) makes a fine anvil for setting. Good lighting and good files make your life easy.

A pair of tri-squares can show you the bumps and bends in your saw (hang it, handle off). A cast iron table saw top makes an adequate saw anvil. Some bumps will hammer out better on a softer wooden surface.
Click to expand...

Well I have been looking at saw tools.
The bay seems to have more than a few, many Atkins Crosscut saw tools.
I have found a couple Simonds 342.
I have never attempted a purchase from the bay, i may have to now...then the lid on that jar will be off.
 
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