Crosscut Saw Thread

trailtime said:
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That's lovely trailtime. I'm no connoisseur of wood saws but I do enjoy viewing implements that are obviously sharp and have been carefully maintained.
 
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23.5 inch old style saw 7 TPI, fulton warranted superior. the etch is surprisingly intact for how dirty this saw was.it had enough rust to start flaking off and the handle was the standard grey dried out wood.

who ever thought it was a good idea to let me use a file before, they were insane. 4-5 teeth are still messed up but they dont effect cutting
 
phantomknives said:
CXgwC1G.jpg

UTwJk0T.jpg

23.5 inch old style saw 7 TPI, fulton warranted superior. the etch is surprisingly intact for how dirty this saw was.it had enough rust to start flaking off and the handle was the standard grey dried out wood.

who ever thought it was a good idea to let me use a file before, they were insane. 4-5 teeth are still messed up but they dont effect cutting
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What did you use for a file?
 
huh, so i'v been filing my handsaws "wrong" what i mean is the tooth shape is like a rip cut but i put about a 15 degree angle on the teeth, from what i'v gathered, a rip tooth should be flat while a cross cut should be beveled.

are there any drawbacks to this that i havent discovered? it seems to be a versatile way to file IMHO.
 
Hello! I have the intention to purchase a 4' Tuatahi M tooh saw. I have read some reports in internet, but does anyone have in hand experience with this type or simmilar saws?
 
phantomknives said:
picked up a 5.5' perf lance. i'd like to run it single man, any tips?
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I have watched many videos on YouTube that exemplify solo operation of a two man, some that incorporate mechanical ropes, pullys and counter weights... videos made by USFS and or the active or retired USFS sawyers have come across to me as the best informed and most informative resource.

I am more than positive square peg and trailsawyer and rjankert will have the experience to help and guide you.
I for one am interested to learn more about exactly your question.
 
phantomknives said:
picked up a 5.5' perf lance. i'd like to run it single man, any tips?
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I am guessing you have watched or come across this one.
I think this is a very informative video, I just don't recall if there is any review of solo operation.
It may however lead you to a resource that does help.

 
phantomknives said:
picked up a 5.5' perf lance. i'd like to run it single man, any tips?
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Once you get it started, stand close to the log and let the weight of the blade overhang the off side an far as possible. This weight will help on the pull stroke. You must saw perpendicular to the ground, no matter the angle of the log, otherwise it will fishtail on the return stroke. With two people, you can hold the saw perpendicular to the log and cut. When single bucking, it helps to put one hand on the handle and the other on the back of the saw in front of the rear handle. This will help keep the blade from buckling on the forward stroke and allow you to apply some downward pressure to the cut. Back up as you near release and cut with just the very end teeth.

When I cut this blowdown, I first made an undercut so the log would snap off at release. I double-bucked it with my daughter until near the bottom, at which time I had her move away (and hold the camera), as she was on the off side. I finished up with a single buck. Note that I sawed with the arc of the saw and not a straight pull and stepped back a bit just before it dropped. Saw was a Simonds #13.

 
phantomknives said:
one last thing, if i use a cup brush to clean and sand after, will that damage the etch?
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I've never used a cup brush. Light rust will come off with 220g sandpaper and WD-40. Use straight back and forth strokes along the length of the blade. If rust is heavy, I put them in an electrolysis tank.
 
trailtime said:
I've never used a cup brush. Light rust will come off with 220g sandpaper and WD-40. Use straight back and forth strokes along the length of the blade. If rust is heavy, I put them in an electrolysis tank.
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the saw's just coated with junk and mud. im just bein lazy. it could have a fantastic etch. the teeth aren't worn down very far and there's aboslutely no pitting and only minor rust
 
phantomknives said:
the saw's just coated with junk and mud. im just bein lazy. it could have a fantastic etch. the teeth aren't worn down very far and there's aboslutely no pitting and only minor rust
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trailtime said:
I've never used a cup brush. Light rust will come off with 220g sandpaper and WD-40. Use straight back and forth strokes along the length of the blade. If rust is heavy, I put them in an electrolysis tank.
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I agree with Trailtime and from my experience with the two saws I have cleaned, still cleaning the 2nd.
I used 220, straight, long length strokes. I took care when going over the etching, even using 330 grit.
I happen to use 3inOne Oil for my lubricant.
Worked great and really brought the etch out.

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From what it was, I am happy with the elbow grease and time it took.
It's the elbow grease, by hand approach I enjoy, and why I work at a snails pace usually, and to the chagrin of most ;)

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I just need the right time to myself to start jointing so I can work on my gullets
 
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