Crosscut Saw Thread

[Miller '72]

Trailtime thank you again.

Your personal experience and your plain tooth examples of 1st try and 2nd try tell me plenty about what i was trying for and what I want to do.

I am thinking to take a chainsaw file to uniformally clean the gullets, rejoint and resharpen. I also need to make the angled profile on the file side of my saw vise sharper so I can have more access to the whole tooth without banging or filing the vise.

Thank you Trailtime this has helped quite a bit

 

[trailtime]

My results were based on hardwood. Try your saw on softwood and see how it performs.

I glued two planks together for stiffness with a side mount vise design. Personal preference, though it does let you work closer to the saw.

 

[Miller '72]

Thanks I will try it on some eastern white pine I may have out back before I do any more filing or changes.

I do want and plan to build a saw vise such as the design you have to accommodate larger saws and hopefully when I find a western style bucking saw.
Currently the vise I built will only fit upto 60" saws.

Coincidentally I just came in from improving my vise now...

Hopefully this will be enough to solve the obstruction the vise was causing when I filed

Thanks again trailtime.

Thanks for looking,
-Miller

 

[phantomknives]

Anybody have an idea about this etch? It's off to the side of the "centerpiece" (I couldn't get a good picture of the other two bits)like an arch and a 5 and what seems to be a bush near the spine of the plate. If you have a guess, let me see it and I'll tell you if it matches the other etches

took a step back and a few days off. on the other side there's 3 large peaks pointing upwards surrounded by what's left of an oval. im gonna conclude this is an atkins

 

[Miller '72]

took a step back and a few days off. on the other side there's 3 large peaks pointing upwards surrounded by what's left of an oval. im gonna conclude this is an atkins

That's excellent! Do you think it might be an Atkins #51, you had mentioned a 5 being in the etch possibly? I know only of the Atkins #51 from Old Axeman when he had made mention of one in an earlier post. He had picked up a #51 Atkins and customized to use in competitions, very cool by the way.

Is that a 60" or 72" you have?

 

[phantomknives]

That's excellent! Do you think it might be an Atkins #51, you had mentioned a 5 being in the etch possibly? I know only of the Atkins #51 from Old Axeman when he had made mention of one in an earlier post. He had picked up a #51 Atkins and customized to use in competitions, very cool by the way.

Is that a 60" or 72" you have?

i'm about 5'7 and it's as tall as i am so i think it's a 66". i dont know about it being a 51.

 

[Miller '72]

This guy is one of three saws i picked up today.
I am not sure, perhaps someone here knows, if this marking leads to the maker of the saw?
I understand it's a 61" and the model is #372...
I did find by a Google search, redirected to a Crosscut forum, a fellow member here has or had a Colonial Crosscut 372 bucking saw.
The hardware for the handles are Henry Disston but that does not make it the saw maker by itself.
More cleaning tomorrow but I have cleaned it for a couple hours so far and no etch as of yet, just this...

Thanks for looking.
Any info, input and or opinions welcome and appreciated.

-Miller

 

[A17]

Saw this on craigslist. I would love to know how it got to be like that!

 

[Jim Thode]

took a step back and a few days off. on the other side there's 3 large peaks pointing upwards surrounded by what's left of an oval. im gonna conclude this is an atkins

The three peaks may be part of the triple A Atkins logo. AAA stands for Atkins Always Ahead.

It is not an Atkins 51 because they were not perforated saws. Maybe if we could see to whole saw it would be easier to guess at the brand/model. There are old saw catalogs online that can be used to help also.
Jim

 

[Jim Thode]

Saw this on craigslist. I would love to know how it got to be like that!

Looks like it went through a fire. If it was just bent and had not been heated, it could be straightened and used. If it went though a file the metal is likely annealed and very soft.
I have one saw that is a cut off bucking saw that kind of looked like that on about 8" of one end. I straightened and sharpened it and it works ok. Then handle goes on the soft end and I have to be careful not to bend it.

 

[phantomknives]

Finally taking out the new guy. Cuts good and right smooth on some frozen pine. Had 3 casualties today, first, I nearly dropped the single man, went to grab it and ripped off half my finger nail. 2nd was my jacket. Gotta be careful with loose jackets and large saws.

Sadly, 3rd was the threads on the saw handle. I was just running the saw, heard a pop, handle loosened up and I couldn't tighten it up anymore

here you go my. Thode

 

[phantomknives]

if i were to weld some teeth onto a saw where others had broken, would i need to re-harden or just re-temper? either way it's no problem but i'd like to know before i get myself into it

 

[Miller '72]

if i were to weld some teeth onto a saw where others had broken, would i need to re-harden or just re-temper? either way it's no problem but i'd like to know before i get myself into it

I don't weld nor do I know much about it.
Would you be using teeth from another saw? A parts saw maybe?
I am very interested and curious how this will play out, if anyone here has had experience with welding teeth back on the blade.
Excellent and challenging endeavor phantomknives.

 

[phantomknives]

I don't weld nor do I know much about it.
Would you be using teeth from another saw? A parts saw maybe?
I am very interested and curious how this will play out, if anyone here has had experience with welding teeth back on the blade.
Excellent and challenging endeavor phantomknives.

yes, they are other saw teeth. i'm currently trying to get professionally certified in welding (neither of my instructors knew whether it would anneal the steel or not) so i have a very well stocked shop i have access to

 

[Miller '72]

yes, they are other saw teeth. i'm currently trying to get professionally certified in welding (neither of my instructors knew whether it would anneal the steel or not) so i have a very well stocked shop i have access to

That's great and good luck!
What I do know about welding is that a good welder is few and hard to find, in these parts anyway.

 

[Jim Thode]

if i were to weld some teeth onto a saw where others had broken, would i need to re-harden or just re-temper? either way it's no problem but i'd like to know before i get myself into it

I've welded several teeth on different saws. When the whole tooth is replaced and the cutting end is not heated that much so there is no problem with tempering or annealing the cutting edge. The part that is welded is likely softer then the point and the rest of the saw but that does not hurt that much. If just the tip needs replacing and a new high carbon (heat treatable) tooth is used it could easily be hardened and tempered if necessary. Some have hardened teeth by heating to a cherry red and quenching with a blast air from a air hose. Then the tooth can be temped so it is not too brittle. Or just don't worry if it is a little softer, a softer tooth is a lot better then no tooth.

On this saw you can see how the tooth is clamped to a heat sink to protect the end of the tooth from getting too hot.

A Simonds 503 with a missing tooth near the middle of the saw:

A donor tooth from a similar saw:

Clamped for MIG welding (welded on both sides):

Finished job:

Jim

 

[Miller '72]

I've welded several teeth on different saws. When the whole tooth is replaced and the cutting end is not heated that much so there is no problem with tempering or annealing the cutting edge. The part that is welded is likely softer then the point and the rest of the saw but that does not hurt that much. If just the tip needs replacing and a new high carbon (heat treatable) tooth is used it could easily be hardened and tempered if necessary. Some have hardened teeth by heating to a cherry red and quenching with a blast air from a air hose. Then the tooth can be temped so it is not too brittle. Or just don't worry if it is a little softer, a softer tooth is a lot better then no tooth.

On this saw you can see how the tooth is clamped to a heat sink to protect the end of the tooth from getting too hot.

A Simonds 503 with a missing tooth near the middle of the saw:

A donor tooth from a similar saw:

Clamped for MIG welding (welded on both sides):

Finished job:

Jim

Not being a welder, this is amazing and fascinating.


Mr. Thode,
Would you happen to know anything about these saws markings?
I followed a Google search to a post of yours on the other forum for Crosscuts and wondered if you ever learned more than i could read as a guest on the post.

On a side note, I have tried to join that forum for months with no response and no luck.

Thank you
-Miller

 

[Jim Thode]

Mr. Thode,
Would you happen to know anything about these saws markings?
I followed a Google search to a post of yours on the other forum for Crosscuts and wondered if you ever learned more than i could read as a guest on the post.

On a side note, I have tried to join that forum for months with no response and no luck.

Thank you
-Miller

Miller,
My first guess on the "372" saw is that the stamp is a owners mark/identification and not a makers mark. I've seen several saws that were stamped by owners. With that said just the fact that it is a plain toothed saw may indicate it is an older saw and who know what they did them. I do see a Simonds 372 hand saw here:
https://www.etsystudio.com/listing/400260513/vintage-handsaw-the-simonds-saw-no-372

You likely can see all there is about the 372 Colonial Bucking saw on the crosscut saw forum. I believe it is a local hardware co. saw that was likely made by one of the common saw makers.

Jim

 

[A17]

Not me, but thought I'd share. If the link doesn't work, try manually typing it.
http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/08/13/saga-of-the-short-saw-a-successful-lesson-of-failure/

 

[Miller '72]

Miller,
My first guess on the "372" saw is that the stamp is a owners mark/identification and not a makers mark. I've seen several saws that were stamped by owners. With that said just the fact that it is a plain toothed saw may indicate it is an older saw and who know what they did them. I do see a Simonds 372 hand saw here:
https://www.etsystudio.com/listing/400260513/vintage-handsaw-the-simonds-saw-no-372

You likely can see all there is about the 372 Colonial Bucking saw on the crosscut saw forum. I believe it is a local hardware co. saw that was likely made by one of the common saw makers.

Jim

Thank you Jim,
Funny I was lead to that saw and site also and this other site as well, an advert for a one man Disston great American #373. That lead to this site, then to here lol!
I had to stop and ask before I start thinking it's something that it is not.

Just for conversation, I was thinking similarly though I was thinking maybe it was marked 372 by a logging or lumber company and perhaps the engraved SW•372•X62" was from the manufacture to the, any, hardware store that was selling them, perhaps without an etch but only a paper label.

The only other info I know of to go on is that the handle hardware is very worn, rusted in place with the rusting of the saw and marked Henry Disston and son's. This does not make it a Disston I know, just adds to the mystery.

Thanks for looking

-Miller