Crosscut Saw Thread

^^^
Seen those before. Good videos. But it freaked me out a little to see him cutting on that nice saw anvil.
 
Square_peg said:
^^^
Seen those before. Good videos. But it freaked me out a little to see him cutting on that nice saw anvil.
Click to expand...
he knows his stuff pretty well. from what i can tell he made a single bevel V groove weld with a few thousandths root opening by making the cut with the grinder, then snapping the tooth. in my opinion, this is better than welding both sides (double V groove i think) because it's spent less time under the welder and had less time to warp

not sure why he did it on the anvil though
 
phantomknives said:
he knows his stuff pretty well. from what i can tell he made a single bevel V groove weld with a few thousandths root opening by making the cut with the grinder, then snapping the tooth. in my opinion, this is better than welding both sides (double V groove i think) because it's spent less time under the welder and had less time to warp

not sure why he did it on the anvil though
Click to expand...


I have had the privilege of watching John make this type of tooth repair. The "welding wire" used is a special alloy that is used to make repairs to LARGE band saw blades.

Working on the "anvil" has a couple of purposes..... Much of the grinding takes place in front of the anvil, and there is shielding material placed on the anvil during welding.

The tooth construction process actually involves forging the hot weld during the buildup process - necessitating the need for the anvil. The anvil also works as a heat sink to

prevent overheating the saw body. The results are amazing!
 
I think he said it was welded on a copper sheet. Then I expect he moved copper away before forging.
 
I'm not welder, but I've experimented with John's techniques using a thick copper block as a base and heat sink. The center tooth was broken about 1/4" down and puddle welded with a mix of mig wire and high speed steel wire, the headless raker was fixed with a donor raker from another saw. Not the most elegant of welds, but opportunities to learn.


https://i.imgur.com/3amkjha.jpg[/img]']
https://i.imgur.com/PqxDnO8.jpg[/img]']
 
He doesn't say exactly which high speed steel welding rod he's using. But some people recommend Weld Mold 966 for that work. It is reported to acheive RC 61-63 as welded. That would be too hard for a saw. But he's mixing that with aprox. 1/3 mild steel wire and then tempering back. I would presume he's tempering it because it's still too hard as welded/forged.

http://www.weldmold.com/966.html

At any rate, it's certainly possible to attain plenty of hardness by his methods.
 
I had grabbed the saw and went out to the green pine limbs thay fell in the last storm.

I am liking it and how it is cutting.

20180120_124224.jpg


20180120_124240.jpg


20180120_123816.jpg


20180120_123844.jpg


20180120_124053.jpg


Thanks for looking.

Please let me know if you think she should be throwing bigger chips.
 
Looks like it's cutting great!

See if you can find a way to attach about 1/2 to 1 pound of weight at the tip. I've done this with a heavy home made supplementary handle and the added weight made a HUGE difference in how it cut.
 
Square_peg said:
Looks like it's cutting great!

See if you can find a way to attach about 1/2 to 1 pound of weight at the tip. I've done this with a heavy home made supplementary handle and the added weight made a HUGE difference in how it cut.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback about how she is cutting.

I definetly can feel the saw needs more weight especially on the pull stroke.
I will see about making a weighted handle as you suggest, it certainly needs a bit more weight than the supplement handle provides when I move it forward.

Thank you again, the feedback on the cutting helps greatly as I don't have any comparison and dont know or know of anyone in my area that is using and or resurrecting crosscuts...or axes for that matter.
:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Talking about welding on saws, this saw has likely been welded on more then any saw. The saw left the factory way too hard and either had several or developed several cracks in the blade soon. I pulled it out from under a steam sawmill that collapsed with heavy snow a few years ago. Other then being too hard for its own good it was a quality saw with very little wear, most likely a Simonds Royal Chinook falling saw. I cleaned it up, sharpened and put it to use cutting firewood. No too long after I put it to use I flexed it too much and it broke in two at about the 1/3 point. The longer section still worked as a shorter saw but just for the fun of it I decided to try welding it back together. After welding the break and welding up a few cracks in blade I've cut about 10-12 cords of firewood with it. I'm sure it is not as strong as a "normal" saw but it is serviceable. Because it is so hard it holds an edge very well and I've cut about four cords before having to touch up the saw. More pics of the welding at: http://www.pbase.com/jimthode/welding_a_saw And the full story of the saw at: http://www.bchw.org/Tech tips/sharpening/Saw Reconditioning.htm

The break:
158491099.n4RAI9rn.IMG_4546a.jpg


Back in service:
166882665.pfIw6JQL.IMG_4580b.jpg


Jim
 
Yes I have fallen hard for Crosscuts.

20180125_140823.jpg


Today at the scrap yard, I met a guy with a 36" saw.
After confirming that both handles were with the saw and part of the deal I made a counter offer and quickly closed the deal.

20180125_140838.jpg


20180125_140848.jpg


I can't believe it has two handles that look original to the saw let alone one.

I am wondering if the 2nd supplement handle was intentionally amd originally purchased to add weight to the toe..?

20180125_134858.jpg
 
I don't see how the negligible weight of an auxiliary handle would do much to improve the efficiency of a crosscut saw in one-man mode, especially on a short saw. It will prevent you from taking a full stroke back through the kerf, and in two man mode, limit your cut to less than half the distance between the two auxiliary handles. Double bucking with a short saw just about guarantees that your partner will get his knuckles banged against the log on the return stroke.

It's an inexpensive hobby until you start lusting after NOS blades. I file them up and pass them along to trail maintainers. Almost everyone who approaches me for a saw wants a one-man. Must be something about individualism or self sufficiency.
 
trailtime said:
I don't see how the negligible weight of an auxiliary handle would do much to improve the efficiency of a crosscut saw in one-man mode, especially on a short saw. It will prevent you from taking a full stroke back through the kerf, and in two man mode, limit your cut to less than half the distance between the two auxiliary handles. Double bucking with a short saw just about guarantees that your partner will get his knuckles banged against the log on the return stroke.

It's an inexpensive hobby until you start lusting after NOS blades. I file them up and pass them along to trail maintainers. Almost everyone who approaches me for a saw wants a one-man. Must be something about individualism or self sufficiency.
Click to expand...

I agree, I don't see or feel The weight of the handle making any real difference.

I like having the extra handle to use for the 48" I just grabbed that came less its supplemental handle!

It has been all fun and more elbow grease than cash so far...

NOS blades you say??? :cool::);):thumbsup:
...be keeping my eyes wide and ears open :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top