Crosscut Saw Thread

phantomknives said:
s-l500.jpg

on a certain site that starts with E there's always a few up. most are $300 and above
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Oh man...I can't look there...what if I find an beautiful Simonds or Atlas with western handles, perforated lance???:D:D:cool::cool::confused::confused::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Had a couple hours today to dedicate to this 48" Disston.
Jointed, fitted the rakers, set the pin gauge to .009" for filing the rakers when I get another chance.

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I think I was lucky on this one. I started with straight, flat rakers, no previous swaging to file out.

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I did notice the cutters have been filed and set to about .016"

Can't wait to get back to it...
 
trailtime said:
I don't see how the negligible weight of an auxiliary handle would do much to improve the efficiency of a crosscut saw in one-man mode, especially on a short saw.
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I would agree with that statement if we're talking about a 36" saw and a standard supplementary handle. I have used a heavy (400g) home made handle and it made a huge different on a light 48" saw. I think when you get up to 54" or 60" you have enough weight out there naturally for the saw to cut well.

With a 36" saw the 2nd handle would definitely limit your stroke. Even on a 48" it will limit your stroke on larger trunks.
 
Square_peg said:
I would agree with that statement if we're talking about a 36" saw and a standard supplementary handle. I have used a heavy (400g) home made handle and it made a huge different on a light 48" saw. I think when you get up to 54" or 60" you have enough weight out there naturally for the saw to cut well.

With a 36" saw the 2nd handle would definitely limit your stroke. Even on a 48" it will limit your stroke on larger trunks.
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At one time single competition sawyers were adding weight on there 5 to 6' saws and found they cut faster. I don't know what kind of weight they were using but it seems like a weight below the saw would be better then above the saw. They changed the rules and do not allow any added weight now. I have not tried it but for non-competition sawing a little added weight may be something to try. With a shorter saw I find that pushing down on the supplementary handle or just on the back of the saw on the pull stroke does make a saw cut faster but it is not that handy.
Jim
 
Jim Thode said:
With a shorter saw I find that pushing down on the supplementary handle or just on the back of the saw on the pull stroke does make a saw cut faster but it is not that handy.
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That matches my experience. Having to bear down on the supplementary handle during the pull stroke feels like wasted energy. I want all my efforts into pushing and pulling and let the weight of the saw do the work.

My heavy supplementary handle was made out of a 5/8" bolt which I kerfed by putting 2 hacksaw blades side-by-side on a single frame. A cut off 20 penny nail made the pin. A large square nut locks it on the saw. A turned wood sleeve is glued over the top of the bolt. I posted a picture of it earlier in this thread.

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https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/crosscut-saw-thread.885774/page-26#post-17075423

I thought about casting some weights. I thought of filling those little aluminum tea light cups with lead. I could use a 5/8" bolt like before but I would add a section of coupling nut covering the threads in the tea light cup. Then just melt some fishing lead to fill the cup. During casting a washer and lock nut would be set below the cup. After casting and when in use on the saw the washer would remain to protect the soft aluminum cup from the back of the blade. A wrap of friction tape around the cup would give it a good grip so the whole lead-filled cup itself becomes the tightening knob. My calculations show that a single tea light cup would be too light, that it would be better twice as tall. One of the old aluminum film canisters might work better.
 
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What`s a roundabout price for old saws?Read it's inexpensive a couple posts back and that is not what I have been seeing.
 
junkenstien said:
What`s a roundabout price for old saws?Read it's inexpensive a couple posts back and that is not what I have been seeing.
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Inexpensive at flea markets, estate sales, and craigslist, providing there's no fancy etch on a clean blade. A patina of rust will cover most maker's marks and make the blade look like an "old saw" when really it's just a visual detraction. As long as it has all its teeth and is not deeply pitted, it can be made better than new, as most factory filings were pretty generic. Also depends on where you live. The pacific northwest is the land of opportunity for finding GOOD saws.
 
trailtime said:
Inexpensive at flea markets, estate sales, and craigslist, providing there's no fancy etch on a clean blade. A patina of rust will cover most maker's marks and make the blade look like an "old saw" when really it's just a visual detraction. As long as it has all its teeth and is not deeply pitted, it can be made better than new, as most factory filings were pretty generic. Also depends on where you live. The pacific northwest is the land of opportunity for finding GOOD saws.
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I agree, and don't be put off by the rusted treasures. My basic requirements are a complete set of teeth, straight blade looking down the back and has a solid handle or handles.

After that I have found the price jumps.
 
Have seen a bunch in antique stores and thrift shops and I know they have to pay the rent but I talked to a fellow off Craigslist today and was shocked at what he wanted.Will keep looking thanks for the replies.
 
I hope to find a Western style handle or set or a set complete with a saw but until that day I am thinking of converting one of my bolt thru the top handles to this center bolt eastern handle in the diagram.

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I am thinking to then apply the converted handle to one of the 48" one man saws.

If anyone has thoughts or experience i always appreciate the feedback & sharing.

I am going to assume right off that my knuckles will be in great jeapordy.

The vise build is a necessary future project :thumbsup::)
 
The danger with an auxiliary handle on a short saws comes when you approach the halfway point on a log. Absent a finger guard, your knuckles will get pinched between the handle and the log by your partner's back stroke. Fitting a western handle to a one man saw will require some modification to the saw's tip, as most of them are sloped and the auxiliary handle hole is set pretty far back.

OUCH!

 
Miller '72 said:
I hope to find a Western style handle or set or a set complete with a saw but until that day I am thinking of converting one of my bolt thru the top handles to this center bolt eastern handle in the diagram.

Screenshot_20180128-090200.jpg


I am thinking to then apply the converted handle to one of the 48" one man saws.

If anyone has thoughts or experience i always appreciate the feedback & sharing.

I am going to assume right off that my knuckles will be in great jeapordy.

The vise build is a necessary future project :thumbsup::)
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Do you have a link to a larger size version of that image?
 
I have come across some pictures on the internet showing a Western style handle on 4' one man saws that have replaced the "D" handle. Does that application give any advantage or benefit to the 4' one man saw?
I will not be running my saws with a partner. No one is jumping to the front of the line for that position here, except my 6 year old son...which is great but not exactly safe yet.

Thanks guys
 
I have several complete handles and miscellaneous hardware. Are these something that could be reproduced on say a CNC machine? Just curious.
 
I mentioned cutting down a 2 man saw for the one man competitions by cutting off both ends equally instead of just cutting off one end. My goal was to to keep as much weight as possible without adding weight that was attached to the saw. It worked for me.
 
Old Axeman said:
I mentioned cutting down a 2 man saw for the one man competitions by cutting off both ends equally instead of just cutting off one end. My goal was to to keep as much weight as possible without adding weight that was attached to the saw. It worked for me.
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That makes perfect sense. A goal of mine is to shorten a saw in just this technique...when I find the saw that has the perfect damage to allow for such a job.
 
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