Cruwear Military Questions...

I got email from Knifecenter telling me it was on back order and to expect it to ship 5-7 days, then i got email later saying that was a mistake and apologizing. Bummer lol.
 
Franz_N said:
I got email from Knifecenter telling me it was on back order and to expect it to ship 5-7 days, then i got email later saying that was a mistake and apologizing. Bummer lol.
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I got the same emails from them about 3 separate pre-orders I have, none of which involve the Cru-Wear Millie. Weird.
 
Franz_N said:
I got email from Knifecenter telling me it was on back order and to expect it to ship 5-7 days, then i got email later saying that was a mistake and apologizing. Bummer lol.
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I don't think this is the first time they've oversold their pre-orders.
 
Ordered mine 2 weeks ago when it came out and got mine yesterday from spydercosales.
Btw I live in Canada..
 
I finally scored one today and the price was right.I can't wait for the Manix 2 XL S90V sprint from the same top notch dealer.Go get one while you can and please don't cry if you miss the boat.The Cruwear Mili is out there now so don't miss the boat!
 
Waiting for my KnifeCenter order. They claim that it will still be fulfilled, but I see it available at another dealer right now for about $30 more
 
They are still being delivered in small batches. I have a order I placed a month ago, and they said they are still getting a shipment. Plus Knifeworks had some yesterday, and Howes was getting shipment as well.
 
Has anyone actually used their cruwear Millie yet? I'm curious as to how it sharpens, holds an edge etc? Fine or grainy edge?
 
jalcon said:
KW has these right now, and for a great price.
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By the time I get home from work and get on the net... all gone. :(


91bravo said:
Has anyone actually used their cruwear Millie yet? I'm curious as to how it sharpens, holds an edge etc? Fine or grainy edge?
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I thought I read somewhere that they are capable of a fine edge. Seems that this is the way it works- stainless steel with a lot of carbides gives a coarser edge, carbon steel gives a finer edge.
 
I got one on the secondary market. Not crazy expensive, but a bit more. The steel is really neat. So far I like it a bunch. Took it out on a great hike today, used it quite a bit and when I got home it would still slice newspaper. Super happy so far.
 
91bravo said:
Has anyone actually used their cruwear Millie yet? I'm curious as to how it sharpens, holds an edge etc? Fine or grainy edge?
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The Cruwear takes a great edge and seems to hold it well, this based on cutting (whittling) wood, cardboard and other more mundane cutting tasks, packages, etc. I only sharpened up to the 600 grit stones on my WEPS and it seemed to me to be pretty fine-grained. I may take it to a higher polish later, but the edge was pretty darn refined after the 600 grit diamond stones. I'm impressed with the steel and also the knife in general. This is my first Millie and they're very well made. Overall, the Cruwear Millie cuts like a demon and though it's a larger knife, it carries very well. I like it so much I bought two. :D
 
I usually run my Ingot Cruwear, Vascowear at around 400 grit. The CPM Cruwear, Z wear, and even 3V gets between 600 and 1000 grit depending on chores intended. For storage purposes I sharpen up knives generally higher as it seems to me, after 45 years but absolutely NO scientific studies that the higher grits lose sharpness at a lesser rate than lower/less polished grits. As I said, I have no evidence of this having any effect whatsoever. I generally clean my knives , dry ( leaving no skin oil or salt on knife) and either Renn wax, or Silicone oil ( 100% pure liquid from A.G.Russell). I do this to eliminate as much as possible corrosion being a source of dulling on the edge.

The steel(s) can take much higher polish but I don't really see much cutting difference with the typical EDC chores of mine. I enjoy the extra bite of the lower grit on the plastics , cloths and things like bandage material ( for Finn the mastiff). On cardboard and paper the higher grits seem to hold up better so if I was going to break down a lot of boxes, or use the blade on wood I'd go up in grit to over 1000-2000 grit. All numbers are with light Chrome oxide strop.I have a habit of always checking for wire edges or Burrs as the steels in this category are tough and can hold burrs well too if not careful.

These steels, Vascowear/Cruwear and descendants can be very aggressive slicers and pretty tough with the right geometry. The Cruwear/Vascowear/Zwear, etc. steels are less prone to losing properties from power sharpening if done properly of course. The tungsten protects them somewhat, with a high tempering temp. and when someone claims "power sharpening overheated my knife causing lower performance" (which I haven't heard with this steel yet) my first suspicion is to think that there is a wire edge or burr present but being pretty tough, is still there despite attempts to get rid of it. Always check if you have lower performance. Also keep in mind this steel isn't designed to have 10V/A11 or S90V/S110V abrasive wear resistance. It's not in it's job description.

Also note the "sweet spot" for me will be different for you as we likely have different uses and needs. Experiment until you find the angle, thickness, and grit that fits your needs best. This goes for all steels naturally, not just Cruwear.

Joe
 
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A couple at new Graham right now....move fast though. Good luck to all....

Edit part: gone now. Was around 8 or so gone in less than an hour give or take. Hope some of y'all got one.
 
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The Mastiff said:
I usually run my Ingot Cruwear, Vascowear at around 400 grit. The CPM Cruwear, Z wear, and even 3V gets between 600 and 1000 grit depending on chores intended. For storage purposes I sharpen up knives generally higher as it seems to me, after 45 years but absolutely NO scientific studies that the higher grits lose sharpness at a lesser rate than lower/less polished grits. As I said, I have no evidence of this having any effect whatsoever. I generally clean my knives , dry ( leaving no skin oil or salt on knife) and either Renn wax, or Silicone oil ( 100% pure liquid from A.G.Russell). I do this to eliminate as much as possible corrosion being a source of dulling on the edge.

The steel(s) can take much higher polish but I don't really see much cutting difference with the typical EDC chores of mine. I enjoy the extra bite of the lower grit on the plastics , cloths and things like bandage material ( for Finn the mastiff). On cardboard and paper the higher grits seem to hold up better so if I was going to break down a lot of boxes, or use the blade on wood I'd go up in grit to over 1000-2000 grit. All numbers are with light Chrome oxide strop.I have a habit of always checking for wire edges or Burrs as the steels in this category are tough and can hold burrs well too if not careful.

These steels, Vascowear/Cruwear and descendants can be very aggressive slicers and pretty tough with the right geometry. The Cruwear/Vascowear/Zwear, etc. steels are less prone to losing properties from power sharpening if done properly of course. The tungsten protects them somewhat, with a high tempering temp. and when someone claims "power sharpening overheated my knife causing lower performance" (which I haven't heard with this steel yet) my first suspicion is to think that there is a wire edge or burr present but being pretty tough, is still there despite attempts to get rid of it. Always check if you have lower performance. Also keep in mind this steel isn't designed to have 10V/A11 or S90V/S110V abrasive wear resistance. It's not in it's job description.

Also note the "sweet spot" for me will be different for you as we likely have different uses and needs. Experiment until you find the angle, thickness, and grit that fits your needs best. This goes for all steels naturally, not just Cruwear.

Joe
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Thank you for sharing your insight.I will have to experiment with this steel to find my sweet spot.This is the beauty of trying new steels as trial and error seems to help me find my personal preference when experimenting.This knife will be a sweet user..
Best regards,
salmonkiller
 
I appreciate Spyderco making a larger batch, and trickling them out verses one shot and they are all gone.

I'm pretty sure my odds to get a Cruware increased. As an enthusiast I am willing to invest the required time seeking said desired model. Not sure if this was their intent, as to sell all the stock in one shot is good for them, but still thanks, it helped on my end.
 
Thanks, Joe. I always appreciate your reports.



John

The Mastiff said:
I usually run my Ingot Cruwear, Vascowear at around 400 grit. The CPM Cruwear, Z wear, and even 3V gets between 600 and 1000 grit depending on chores intended. For storage purposes I sharpen up knives generally higher as it seems to me, after 45 years but absolutely NO scientific studies that the higher grits lose sharpness at a lesser rate than lower/less polished grits. As I said, I have no evidence of this having any effect whatsoever. I generally clean my knives , dry ( leaving no skin oil or salt on knife) and either Renn wax, or Silicone oil ( 100% pure liquid from A.G.Russell). I do this to eliminate as much as possible corrosion being a source of dulling on the edge.

The steel(s) can take much higher polish but I don't really see much cutting difference with the typical EDC chores of mine. I enjoy the extra bite of the lower grit on the plastics , cloths and things like bandage material ( for Finn the mastiff). On cardboard and paper the higher grits seem to hold up better so if I was going to break down a lot of boxes, or use the blade on wood I'd go up in grit to over 1000-2000 grit. All numbers are with light Chrome oxide strop.I have a habit of always checking for wire edges or Burrs as the steels in this category are tough and can hold burrs well too if not careful.

These steels, Vascowear/Cruwear and descendants can be very aggressive slicers and pretty tough with the right geometry. The Cruwear/Vascowear/Zwear, etc. steels are less prone to losing properties from power sharpening if done properly of course. The tungsten protects them somewhat, with a high tempering temp. and when someone claims "power sharpening overheated my knife causing lower performance" (which I haven't heard with this steel yet) my first suspicion is to think that there is a wire edge or burr present but being pretty tough, is still there despite attempts to get rid of it. Always check if you have lower performance. Also keep in mind this steel isn't designed to have 10V/A11 or S90V/S110V abrasive wear resistance. It's not in it's job description.

Also note the "sweet spot" for me will be different for you as we likely have different uses and needs. Experiment until you find the angle, thickness, and grit that fits your needs best. This goes for all steels naturally, not just Cruwear.

Joe
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springnr said:
I appreciate Spyderco making a larger batch, and trickling them out verses one shot and they are all gone.

I'm pretty sure my odds to get a Cruware increased. As an enthusiast I am willing to invest the required time seeking said desired model. Not sure if this was their intent, as to sell all the stock in one shot is good for them, but still thanks, it helped on my end.
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Check post #155- they get released in many small batches and each small batch gets scooped up quickly. This benefits the people that can watch the websites all day, or watch the forums for announcements of when they get released. A lot of enthusiasts, such as me, can't do that so we miss out. The scamming flippers in particular CAN do that so they are the ones that are able to buy up most of the knives. If they were released in one large batch the flippers could grab a lot of them as they have done in the past, but it would provide a window of time when anyone that wanted one could get one. In some instances this window has proven to be fairly small, but much larger than when they release say 8 at a time.
 
Thanks Salmonkiller and John. This CPM Cruwear is still new to me and I won't claim to know the steel until I have a lot of use on the knife, plus hopefully other knives with different heat treats and final hardness's. Until then I try to stick to generalizations I feel pretty confident about from use. I have a couple Vascowear knives including a custom, plus Cruwear millie and a few Cruwear mules. A Bunch of 3V knives from different makers in different styles, grinds, hardnesses, etc. I have one Z wear knife which is a powder steel vascowear/cruwear composition like CPM Cruwear.

Still, each knife is a different performing blade for many reasons. The same steel at the same hardness can have different performance in the usual 3 things we measure ( wear, toughness and corrosion resistance) because a different formula heat treat and temper is used to get to the same hardness. That is not at all unique to this class of steels either. 154cm, CPM 154/ATS 34/RWL 34 is well known for the differences between the high and low heat treats. That is a different steel for another thread though. The foundry data sheets typically list the temps for greatest toughness and wear resistance.
Data sheets to enjoy:http://www.nsm-ny.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=35
 
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