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Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Damascarbotanium-----Chris Moss WiP
- Thread starter Lorien
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 27,619
I got the dowel pins drill and set in the guard and spacers.
With the holes set I heated the parts to pop them apart, then cleaned them and re-assembled them with short pins. Then I assembled the knife and glued the two spacers to the handle. The pins are a nice tight slip-fit so I slid the spacers off along with the handle and used the spacers as a template to drill the holes in the handle. I used both spacers in order to get enough thickness to ensure I drill the holes straight.
It goes together with the pins, without gaps, and aligns perfectly every time.
Okay, so now it is time to get the guard roughed out. I used Nick Wheeler's trick for this, and made a half template that fits on the blade ricasso. I covered the guard in layout dye to show the scribed line a little better.
Then I used a scribe to mark along it for a symmetrical profile. I marked it once, but didn't quite like it so modified the template. I will cut to the inner of the two lines.
Just a cautionary warning about grinding Ti- not only is it really tough on tools and belts the sparks are NO JOKE. I wore my leather apron, (normally I don't bother) safety glasses, dust mask and a long sleeve shirt. These sparks will catch stuff on fire a lot easier than steel, so I clean up my work-space before I go at it. Also... I completely destroyed a brand new ceramic belt roughing this guard out.. and it took me close to an hour.. TI is tough to work with.
Once I got it close I re-blued the face and re-marked the profile as the heat from grinding discolors the dye.
I finished the shaping and proceeded to cut the profile of the guard. This is a step that it is easy to screw up all of my hard work and have to start over, so I take it slow and continually check to make sure I haven't gone too far. I also drew where I wanted to go with a sharpie and then scribed a more precise line.
After the profile was done, it was an easy task to cut the handle to match. It still needs a little tweaking and then I will be roughing out the guard to match the cross-section of the handle.
With the holes set I heated the parts to pop them apart, then cleaned them and re-assembled them with short pins. Then I assembled the knife and glued the two spacers to the handle. The pins are a nice tight slip-fit so I slid the spacers off along with the handle and used the spacers as a template to drill the holes in the handle. I used both spacers in order to get enough thickness to ensure I drill the holes straight.
It goes together with the pins, without gaps, and aligns perfectly every time.
Okay, so now it is time to get the guard roughed out. I used Nick Wheeler's trick for this, and made a half template that fits on the blade ricasso. I covered the guard in layout dye to show the scribed line a little better.
Then I used a scribe to mark along it for a symmetrical profile. I marked it once, but didn't quite like it so modified the template. I will cut to the inner of the two lines.
Just a cautionary warning about grinding Ti- not only is it really tough on tools and belts the sparks are NO JOKE. I wore my leather apron, (normally I don't bother) safety glasses, dust mask and a long sleeve shirt. These sparks will catch stuff on fire a lot easier than steel, so I clean up my work-space before I go at it. Also... I completely destroyed a brand new ceramic belt roughing this guard out.. and it took me close to an hour.. TI is tough to work with.
Once I got it close I re-blued the face and re-marked the profile as the heat from grinding discolors the dye.
I finished the shaping and proceeded to cut the profile of the guard. This is a step that it is easy to screw up all of my hard work and have to start over, so I take it slow and continually check to make sure I haven't gone too far. I also drew where I wanted to go with a sharpie and then scribed a more precise line.
After the profile was done, it was an easy task to cut the handle to match. It still needs a little tweaking and then I will be roughing out the guard to match the cross-section of the handle.
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2011
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- 136
Looking good! Pioneering is never easy; those are all very exotic materials. Impressive work on the titanium so far.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 27,619
I made a piece of aluminum that matched the profile of the handle shape and put it against the guard. This serves two purposes; I dont want to accidentally roll the part and ruin any of the grind, and I'm using it as a template as I rough the shape of the guard in. Being able to disassemble the knife repeatedly is really nice.
I am going to do most of the handle work before I finish the blade as I dont have to worry about marring the finished surface. As all the mating surfaces are finished already, I can finish the blade last and not worry about ruining anything. So I roughed in the shape of the handle. Sadly I didn't get a picture of the roughed guard before I started the handl. I thought I did but i must have forgotten.
There are some slight voids in the handle, but they can easily be fixed as I can fill them with fiber and resin. Unlike wood, where you hit a void and it just looks like you filled it, I can fill any voids with the original material and there will be no break in the continuity of the look or finish of the handle.
I will get the handle very close to the finished shape before going over and filling any voids. Then I will bend the guard and start the finishing process.
I am going to do most of the handle work before I finish the blade as I dont have to worry about marring the finished surface. As all the mating surfaces are finished already, I can finish the blade last and not worry about ruining anything. So I roughed in the shape of the handle. Sadly I didn't get a picture of the roughed guard before I started the handl. I thought I did but i must have forgotten.
There are some slight voids in the handle, but they can easily be fixed as I can fill them with fiber and resin. Unlike wood, where you hit a void and it just looks like you filled it, I can fill any voids with the original material and there will be no break in the continuity of the look or finish of the handle.
I will get the handle very close to the finished shape before going over and filling any voids. Then I will bend the guard and start the finishing process.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
This is really turning out great. I never even imagined making my own carbon fiber!!! I think you would be wise to see if BigRick would be willing to lend any advice... the man makes carbon fiber parts for Formula 1 race cars! 
:thumbup: 
I'm fortunate enough to have some of his cf, and it is amazing. I think Matt Lamey has used some of Rick's stuff on his knives too. :thumbup:
And this might sound corny Chris, but thanks for the mention. I always try to give thanks to guys that I learn stuff from, so it feels extremely rewarding to see you have gotten something out of my ramblings on here.
I'm jealous of the DRO on that mill.... that will be one of my next big shop purchases.
:thumbup: I'm fortunate enough to have some of his cf, and it is amazing. I think Matt Lamey has used some of Rick's stuff on his knives too. :thumbup:And this might sound corny Chris, but thanks for the mention. I always try to give thanks to guys that I learn stuff from, so it feels extremely rewarding to see you have gotten something out of my ramblings on here.
I'm jealous of the DRO on that mill.... that will be one of my next big shop purchases.
- Joined
- Nov 13, 1998
- Messages
- 2,598
I learn a little something from every one of these WIP threads, see a tool, trick or method that I can either employ or modify to fit my needs. Im with Nick, I never, and wont ever make any of my own CF!! I just ground a real simple handle using some from Big Rick, I took every precaution to keep the dust from getting to my skin, BUT STILL it found a way to make me itch for 3 days!
Lookin fwd. to more pics!!
Lookin fwd. to more pics!!
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 27,619
I got the gaurd set up in the vice. Using some copper to protect the face, I am holding it deep enough in the jaws that it should eliminate any warpage of the mating surface. Plus i would have to get it hot and the larger cross-section keeps it from getting too hot.
So.. turn on the propane torch and get ready to do some bending! It only took about 3-4 heats to get the right bend. I used my drawing as a template.. and it is really, really close. This is why I left extra material on, because now I only have to get it as close as I can before removing the excess stock to reveal the smooth curve inside.
I did the same for the top, and them popped it on the blade to see how it looks. Pretty darn good, if you ask me. Especially after having it stick straight down for so long.
After then it was on to the laborious and tedious work of hand sanding... I still have the extra piece of aluminum on there that is the shape of the handle, so I don't round the back of the smallest spacer. This is what it looked like after I was finished with most of the roughing on the grinder.. and had moved to a drum on the dremel.
This is the kind of work that makes me love my pana-vise. This is after a couple hours of work with 120-280 grit paper on blocks, files, and dowels.
Popped it back on the blade with the handle. I am waiting to finish the handle transition till I am almost finished with the guard due to the soft nature of the carbon fiber.
And here is a small preview... I wanted to see what the contrast looks like. This is a light etch on the Damascus. It is just a linear pattern, and will be topographically etched when the time comes and colored to match the blade, while the Ti. will get anodized. i think it will make for a real pretty contrast.
I put another coat of resin on the handle and should be ready for finishing. should have an almost final fit and match of handle and guard very soon.
So.. turn on the propane torch and get ready to do some bending! It only took about 3-4 heats to get the right bend. I used my drawing as a template.. and it is really, really close. This is why I left extra material on, because now I only have to get it as close as I can before removing the excess stock to reveal the smooth curve inside.
I did the same for the top, and them popped it on the blade to see how it looks. Pretty darn good, if you ask me. Especially after having it stick straight down for so long.
After then it was on to the laborious and tedious work of hand sanding... I still have the extra piece of aluminum on there that is the shape of the handle, so I don't round the back of the smallest spacer. This is what it looked like after I was finished with most of the roughing on the grinder.. and had moved to a drum on the dremel.
This is the kind of work that makes me love my pana-vise. This is after a couple hours of work with 120-280 grit paper on blocks, files, and dowels.
Popped it back on the blade with the handle. I am waiting to finish the handle transition till I am almost finished with the guard due to the soft nature of the carbon fiber.
And here is a small preview... I wanted to see what the contrast looks like. This is a light etch on the Damascus. It is just a linear pattern, and will be topographically etched when the time comes and colored to match the blade, while the Ti. will get anodized. i think it will make for a real pretty contrast.
I put another coat of resin on the handle and should be ready for finishing. should have an almost final fit and match of handle and guard very soon.
Wow I really cant wait to see what that carbon fiber looks like, I find myself refreshing this page as often as I can. cool blade AWESOME materials, and great WIP. keep it up and post a pic of the finished handle before i die of curiosity. Btw I really like that way of doing the CF I will have to try that soon.
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- Jan 10, 2007
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- 1,923
A lot of cool stuff in this WIP!
Kohai999
Second Degree Cutter
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- Jan 2, 2006
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Hey i just wanted to make note here... it is a dificult way of making a handle, however, it is less dificult than milling a black of carbon to match the tang as perfectly as this fits. That was part of my reason for making it like this. the handle matches the shape of the tang within about 0.001-.002". it is worth the "extra" work in my opinion.
thanks for all the interest.. and Nick, i really appreciate your help with the tips, so you have earned any shout out. i have learned so much from all your WIP threads so it is the least i can do.
thanks everybody!
~Chris
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 27,619
I totally agree with you on the sharpening. If you finish sharpening the edge before you etch, (and especially if you etch heavy) the edge will end up serrated and prone to corrosion. I was planning on doing a light etch, to bring out the contrast, then blue the blade before going over it lightly to polish the 15n20 a bit for higher contrast without a topographical etch. Then I will sharpen the edge. The blade is really light and fine and is almost sharp now at an almost zero edge. It is going to cut like a razor.
I did get the key done, and I will be honest.. I am REALLY excited about this- it is really trick! I think we are both going to be happy as a result of this knife.
I cut the finial off, and designed the "key holes" to fit around the thread as they are deeper than the threaded hole. the key is Ti as well and will be anodized to match. next time i will make the finial a little bigger and deeper.. but you live and learn. The keys are hardened steel dowel pins.
I did get the key done, and I will be honest.. I am REALLY excited about this- it is really trick! I think we are both going to be happy as a result of this knife.
I cut the finial off, and designed the "key holes" to fit around the thread as they are deeper than the threaded hole. the key is Ti as well and will be anodized to match. next time i will make the finial a little bigger and deeper.. but you live and learn. The keys are hardened steel dowel pins.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 27,619
We're now all at the same place. I haven't seen any pictures beyond these ones or know where this knife is at now.
The excitement is really starting to take hold!
It's a cool experience, cutting and pasting emails, then matching up pictures to them- putting this thread together is kind of like seeing it all through fresh eyes.
And at this point, even more so!
The excitement is really starting to take hold!
It's a cool experience, cutting and pasting emails, then matching up pictures to them- putting this thread together is kind of like seeing it all through fresh eyes.
And at this point, even more so!
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,073
The paln was to have the knife finished by the time we got to the end of the work in progress, however i have to work a day-job to support my hobby. =) I have a big job at work that has had me at work for 10-14 hours a day plus 8 on the weekends, so i havent had as much time to work on it as i want.
However my plan is to take Wed and Friday off. The handle is finished and at 400 grit. i still have to sand blast the guard before i anodize it and the blade has to be polished. then the knife will be done. i will get some pictures tonight and send them Lorien's way...
However my plan is to take Wed and Friday off. The handle is finished and at 400 grit. i still have to sand blast the guard before i anodize it and the blade has to be polished. then the knife will be done. i will get some pictures tonight and send them Lorien's way...
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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- 27,619
:thumbup: