David Mirabile RONIN Battle Tanto WIP (PAGE 25 NEW CUTTING VIDEO)

[video=youtube;2kFgeZtkAb8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kFgeZtkAb8[/video]
 
That's a good one buddy :)

Look at the one I just posted up that guy gets himself good
 
I'm just about to eat breakfast, I'll watch it a little later :)
 
JParanee said:
That's a good one buddy :)

Look at the one I just posted up that guy gets himself good
Click to expand...

I saw that one earlier. Made my arm ache.

There are two other other good cautionary videos. Guy cutting a watermelon while he has his other hand on the top to hold it upright. Another with a kid cutting a beer can, while his friend holds it between his hands. Both end in an er trip, and likely permanent nerve dammage to hands!
 
JParanee said:
I just discovered this guys channel and in really like it

He has some great cutting videos and other sword related stuff

In this video he stabs himself pretty bad ...... Showing this stuff can be very dangerous so please be careful

[video=youtube;Q8vlQPsGlGY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8vlQPsGlGY[/video]
Click to expand...

New FIF challenge?
 
Don't forget about the recent one where the guy gets his nose cut off. He was holding something in his mouth while his drunk friend tried to cut it with a mall ninja sword.

Videos like the one you posted Joe P. are a reminder of how incredibly dangerous and powerful of a weapon a sword can be. It went through his whole arm with little resistance, like it was just a needle prick. If it wasn't for my basic but good wushu sword training there's no way I'd have gotten away with some of the cavalier stuff in my videos, let alone the "testing" off camera. Luckily I've already "cut" myself with a wooden dao enough times in the past to get the point across at least. :)

Getting cut while making them is my problem. Just last night I laid a finger pad to the bone, filing on a pointed wrought iron guard. So fail it wasn't even on a blade! They usually find a way to take a bite before they get sent on their way. :D
 
Mecha said:
Don't forget about the recent one where the guy gets his nose cut off. He was holding something in his mouth while his drunk friend tried to cut it with a mall ninja sword.

Videos like the one you posted Joe P. are a reminder of how incredibly dangerous and powerful of a weapon a sword can be. It went through his whole arm with little resistance, like it was just a needle prick. If it wasn't for my basic but good wushu sword training there's no way I'd have gotten away with some of the cavalier stuff in my videos, let alone the "testing" off camera. Luckily I've already "cut" myself with a wooden dao enough times in the past to get the point across at least. :)

Getting cut while making them is my problem. Just last night I laid a finger pad to the bone, filing on a pointed wrought iron guard. So fail it wasn't even on a blade! They usually find a way to take a bite before they get sent on their way. :D
Click to expand...

Yes you are not kidding

It is utterly terrifying what a sword can do

If you time some of even my pathetic old rusty draw and double cuts you will find its literally drawings G and doing 2 cuts in a fraction Of a second

Let's face it I Have not done this stuff consistently for 2 decades

I'm no where near as fast as I was

I knew my stupid ass would not want to start out slow and build up hence why David reinforced the SAYA so much

My big warm up was doing the drop cut which is probale the stupidest trick to do after a 20 year layoff :)

Playing with sharp objects isn't the smartest thing to do but I would not feel under matched with this piece against much but a gun ..... And than if I'm with in 10 feet they are gonna have a bad day :)
 
Great job buddy....devastating power indeed. [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just for visual aid's sake, here's the rough wrought iron guard that so neatly unzipped my fingertip while filing a tang slot. Just a little hocus pocus action around those points with the fingers and slice. Well at least it will do it's job for sure, as I wasn't expecting wrought iron to be quite so keen. Should have taped up the ends. :D

t29Vehr.jpg


JOUojWn.jpg
 
Joe buddy,

You have the best damn toys!

Great thread buddy
 
Joe (and everyone else who knows about this) - edge/blade geometry question (I think about this stuff a lot lately, I am finishing the final shaping and polishing of a 31" pweld jian in the style of the Ming Dynasty - no pics, customer doesn't want anyone else to ever make a sword like his - sorry).

You were comparing the relative ease of cutting targets, and mentioned rolled up newspaper versus thicker paper versus tatami. I have the blade fully convexed, which is a bitch with a double-edged blade, and results in a lenticular form with a very small ridge for low drag. I have the edge rolled in relatively thick, for support and to mimic a blade that could encounter something akin to what the Europeans would have called a brigandine.

I don't know if you are comfortable sharing these sorts of stats, but if you are, how thick is the blade on that, at the optimal cutting spot, about 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" back from the edge?

I am trying to decide whether to take just a bit off of the meat of the convexity that rolls down to the final edge on this jian. I rolled the edges in with a slack belt and then have dressed and set the shape some more with files, and I am just about where I want to be. I would like to know how what I have made/am making compares to the one you have. If that is ok? If you don't want it public, maybe a pm?

The one I am working on, as it sits now (and I may take a tad off of the niku - thus the point of the email) is:
1/16" from edge = .05" thick,
1/8" from edge = .09" thick
1/4" from edge = .12" thick.
ridge (about .4" from edge) = .135"

Steel for the core of the blade is 1084 and 15n20, 17 layers, twisted. The edge bars are W2 and 1075, which will give a look like the old piled construction, with enough carbon and vanadium to hold an edge well and keep the grain fine.

It is tempered to RC 54-55

As you can visualize, the ridge is low, and there isn't the easy to make but not ideal long flat grind to a convexed edge. The whole thing is rolled, but I am just trying to decide how much more meat to take out of the roll.

Your blade seems great, and I thought that some comparison info may help me make up my mind. I am not going to copy what you have, as the general shapes are so different, anyway. This is just what has been on my mind because I am doing that work that is the transition between shaping and polishing (working with smooth files and then 220 grit paper). After 220, it becomes just polishing.

edited to add: I find a ridge quite challenging when it is in a blade with this geometry because it is low and there isn't a wide flat coming in to the ridge. This less pronounced ridge is just plain harder to make. I can see why, just from a technical standpoint, fullers were so often used. The edge geometry on what I have right now is almost identical to what one would see on a Viking or Migration era sword, but Migration era may have been a tad thicker, and they were making their blades to face light armor (hauberks). Jians were for a mixture of light armor and no armor (sort of like waks).

decisions, decisions...

great thread.
thanks,
kc
 
Last edited:
kevin (theprofessor) said:
Joe (and everyone else who knows about this) - edge/blade geometry question (I think about this stuff a lot lately, I am finishing the final shaping and polishing of a 31" pweld jian in the style of the Ming Dynasty - no pics, customer doesn't want anyone else to ever make a sword like his - sorry).

You were comparing the relative ease of cutting targets, and mentioned rolled up newspaper versus thicker paper versus tatami. I have the blade fully convexed, which is a bitch with a double-edged blade, and results in a lenticular form with a very small ridge for low drag. I have the edge rolled in relatively thick, for support and to mimic a blade that could encounter something akin to what the Europeans would have called a brigandine.

I don't know if you are comfortable sharing these sorts of stats, but if you are, how thick is the blade on that, at the optimal cutting spot, about 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" back from the edge?

I am trying to decide whether to take just a bit off of the meat of the convexity that rolls down to the final edge on this jian. I rolled the edges in with a slack belt and then have dressed and set the shape some more with files, and I am just about where I want to be. I would like to know how what I have made/am making compares to the one you have. If that is ok? If you don't want it public, maybe a pm?

The one I am working on, as it sits now (and I may take a tad off of the niku - thus the point of the email) is:
1/16" from edge = .05" thick,
1/8" from edge = .09" thick
1/4" from edge = .12" thick.
ridge (about .4" from edge) = .135"

Steel for the core of the blade is 1084 and 15n20, 17 layers, twisted. The edge bars are W2 and 1075, which will give a look like the old piled construction, with enough carbon and vanadium to hold an edge well and keep the grain fine.

It is tempered to RC 54-55

As you can visualize, the ridge is low, and there isn't the easy to make but not ideal long flat grind to a convexed edge. The whole thing is rolled, but I am just trying to decide how much more meat to take out of the roll.

Your blade seems great, and I thought that some comparison info may help me make up my mind. I am not going to copy what you have, as the general shapes are so different, anyway. This is just what has been on my mind because I am doing that work that is the transition between shaping and polishing (working with smooth files and then 220 grit paper). After 220, it becomes just polishing.

edited to add: I find a ridge quite challenging when it is in a blade with this geometry because it is low and there isn't a wide flat coming in to the ridge. This less pronounced ridge is just plain harder to make. I can see why, just from a technical standpoint, fullers were so often used. The edge geometry on what I have right now is almost identical to what one would see on a Viking or Migration era sword, but Migration era may have been a tad thicker, and they were making their blades to face light armor (hauberks). Jians were for a mixture of light armor and no armor (sort of like waks).

decisions, decisions...

great thread.
thanks,
kc
Click to expand...

I do not think David will mind

I will get some measurements as soon as I can

Thx
 
Had an annual gathering of great friends over for a Labor Day BBQ yesterday. 6th Degree Black Belt, 5th Degree Black Belt and 4th Degree Black Belt(If you haven't figured it out by now, I hold a 2nd Degree Black Belt) and we were comparing scars from training "incidents".

Devin Thomas has a saying that everyone in knives gets cut and burnt.......everyone who plays with swords gets cut for sure.....and these are experienced, disciplined people......some of the videos out there cause me to shudder with fear with what we are NOT seeing video'd.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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