The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
After a great explanation from the accused I'd love to hear a rebuttle from the op because as I read and understand th accused has his ducks in a row. And I've been looking the op has been off and on this thread since accused has posted
Dude you waited forever to even look at the knife and your bitching about delays this is crazy I mean just out of bounds crazy. You just seem like a complainer I hope the accused aren't tarnished from your pointless bs.complain about a edge after its reworked lmao wtf. And in your own admission the numbered thing didn't matter to you but now in your excuse it is back peddle much?
I did not contact the maker as I was not interested in pursuing the matter further, since the knife was heavily re-ground by Josh of REK, which I figured voided any warranty.
I was also not interested in making any claim after all the weird excuses and delays in shipping from the maker's nephew, and getting the knife six weeks after winning the auction, which is really unacceptable. Sonnerboomer should have gotten a negative Ebay feedback from me for this, and this is my one admitted failing...
Also, not getting a numbered knife when the knife was described as being one of the first 100 numbered knives was not encouraging either...
The initial edge holding performance of the knife was bad, with immediate micro chipping on Maple, but I hoped this was just the usual "shallow" power tool burned edge that is often seen on new knives (I had seen the same thing on a Chris Reeves Jereboam Mk II, and that had quickly sharpened out to an acceptable performance, even when the edge was made thinner). I figured I would hand-sharpen my way out of the bad steel... I sent the knife to RazorEdgeKnives to have its edge shoulder thinned from the original 0.040" behind the edge to 0.020", thinning down the entire blade side, which is a major re-working (the plunge line even being changed in shape to make it simpler for Josh).
I told Josh to not decrease the final edge bevel angle to my preferred 12 degrees per side, because Josh will no longer offer edge re-grinds by hand, these proving too time consuming. Given the initial poor edge performance, I felt the knife had a better chance of getting better if I reduced the edge angle myself by hand instead of having it done by a machine. Josh did an outstanding job with the main flats of the knife, as usual... Those main flats were done with a power tool, but my Lile Sly II was also done by Josh at the very same time, and came out fine from this exact same thinning treatment, to the same 0.020" value at the edge, with outstanding edge holding, and with an identical hand-applied edge to the ACK's final geometry.
I removed by hand a fair amount of metal from the final ACK edge bevel, which ended up slightly under 15 degrees per side, probably around 12-13 degrees, on a bevel thickness of 0.020", which is identical to most of my Randalls that I sharpen in the same way to the same angle, including the Model 12 that I compared it to side-by side on the same piece of wood.
Later in the early Spring I chopped with the ACK on a piece of Maple, the first test since the REK re-grind, and the edge immediately not only micro-chipped but curled up over lengths of about 3-5 mm over a depth of 0.3-0.5 mm. In pictures I have you can see the edge curled up completely upwards: I had never seen this kind of edge failure on Maple before. I can post the pictures when I get a new camera, as the wire interface is broken on my current camera.
I had pointed out a nearly as bad failure on a Vaughn Neeley SA9, also on Maple (chipping and even crumbling), and the knife was sent back to the maker (through Sam Wilson), and I never heard anything back from it... I did get accused though by Sam Wilson of not knowing how to sharpen a knife, even though all my other Lile, Randall and Colin Cox knives apparently do perfectly fine with my incompetence... I figured it would be the same thing here, given the 0.020" edge thinness and 24 degree inclusive angles I choose...: Many knives fail while chopping at these angles, and I weed them out on this basis: This is why I don't make a big deal of such failures... There is no point in telling me this is too thin: All the Liles, Randalls and one Colin Cox I have kept do not agree with you...
My main objection was not the performance of the steel, which I can't really prove, given the REK re-grind, but the delay in getting the knife from Sonnerboomer, and the suspicious pre-planned nature of the multiple delay excuses presented, especially with the missing serial number added in. I did think that the knife was performing poorly, but it seemed significant to me only in the context of the delay: I have no doubt that the maker knows how to make knives: The design and especially the sheath were outstanding.
If I had a point to make it would be this: Don't accept pictures presented as generic on Ebay, and if the knife comes from Sonnerboomer and does not correspond in the slightest with the presented description, say, it is slightly different from the photo, or it is missing its serial number, then return the knife immediately.
To the maker, if he did heat-treat the knife according to his knowledge and with good procedures, I would say to check on the steel source, and maybe test one blade's edge holding from each batch of steel. If it was me, I would test every blade by chopping wood, and then re-finish them to a new condition. Also, be very wary of power tools in the finishing stages, as many makers assume grinding temperatures are too low to have an effect, but I have seen even minor re-grindings can have a major impact. I think Randall V edge final bevels are done by hand because of this...
All I can say is the knife looked very good, was not heat-warped and was commendably straight and symmetrical, and had an outstanding sheath: The edge did not perform well at around a 24 degrees inclusive edge on a re-ground 0.020" thickness behind the edge. Beyond that I do not wish to pursue the matter further, as I no longer have the knife.
The $800 plus cost was because my screen converts the price into Canadian dollars.
Gaston
Just a quick point for the sake of clarity (for those that don't want to read the hollow handle thread), Gaston and I have certainly had a lively discussion over a number of things in that thread. But to my knowledge he never bashed my knives, as I don't believe he has ever held one. I know I have never sold him one directly. Just wanted to avoid any confusion.
I hope the parties involved can get satisfaction.
Sam :thumbup:
I am going to respond as nicely as possible.......
So, you found someone to "HEAVILY GRIND" the ACK SLY II made by me, changed the angle of the bevel to equivalent of a kitchen knife, THEN BLAME ME for the fact that edge curls, doesn't hold up?!! ARE YOU SERIOUS!!!!
Not only do you come off as a complainer, but you come off as an arrogant "know-it-all", but do you know, understand what "heavy grinding" does to the temper of a blade? And by reading the HH thread you do have experience in reworking blades to your IMPRACTICAL specs/use!
I don't want to argue with you, either, but you warrant, ASK FOR THE backlash by altering maker's knives THEN BLAMING THEM when your "specs" fail!!
I will research the knife shop you mention and see if I can get the guy on the phone that molested the blade to your specs!
Rez_Dawg you have an email or way I can contact you without posting on the forum?
First, Josh @ REK is top notch. He does regrinds without effecting the HT, and he also does what is asked of him.
He should not be the topic here, that wouldn't fair.
From what I take from all of this is that the OP bought a knife that he didn't like, so instead of contacting the maker he sent it out to get re-worked by Josh, and then was unhappy because it didn't perform to his "expectations"
What I see here is a guy who has an issue with communication
You buy a knife, custom, whatever, and there is something you feel is not right with it, you talk to the maker. Most people are very willing to figure out the issue with you, regardless, that's where you start.
If your solution is to have it reground, you now own it and any issues that regrind may cause to the type of use that knife was designed for by the maker.
No complaining, no threads in the GBU, no crap about "folding edges"
When you have an issue with something there is a right and a wrong way to deal it. This is the WRONG way, ( in case there was any confusion )
Josh is a very talented and serious craftsmen, but he is augmenting other people's work. That needs to be remembered.
For some things it might make a knife better, for other things, not so much, and he will be the first to tell you that...