Disassembly pics?

Cutlover said:
A69e5qf.jpg


At the top, that little blue piece is not part of the knife, it is just a magnet holding the ball bearings (Wouldn't want to lose those :eek:)

Awesome pics guys, and really cool thread idea.
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Using a magnet to keep the ball bearing from rolling away? Genius!!

As someone who grew up with 3 out of every 4 friends being from some part of the ex-Soviet Union oet ne say that I don't think ai can ever drink or even smell vodka again.
 
Nick Shabazz has youtube videos of disassembly.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM_f7DAr6zzIHHYggsq8CrA/videos

The only thing i dont agree with is using nano oil because its expensive snake oil thats not better than anything else (which he does mention in a lubrication video he does, he uses it because he already has it).

also he applies way to much of it, but thats the way he prefers it even with the con's that come with it. you should only need a drop on each peice of metal to metal contact, then use a qtip to wipe off excess (or fingers). you may think there is no oil on it, but there is, and theirs plenty. lube is just there to protect the metal, you dont even need lube in most cases if you dont want to.
 
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Lapedog said:
Using a magnet to keep the ball bearing from rolling away? Genius!!

As someone who grew up with 3 out of every 4 friends being from some part of the ex-Soviet Union oet ne say that I don't think ai can ever drink or even smell vodka again.
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you could also open the knife in a plastic bin, bucket etc, or a large ziplock baggie.
 
Rubicon_Joey said:
Took these just minutes after getting it..
Two screws hold on a CF piece that hide the frame screws.
20161209_205528_zpsuqy0v9c2.jpg

The first frame screw looks like it was hand ground to make it fit.
20161209_205817_zpsiabbf4xu.jpg

The frame halves separated. Notice the bearing on this side of the knife.
20161209_210142_zpsila9a9i7.jpg

A detailed look at the pivot. The white is some kind of thread locker.
20161209_210228_zpsgjfyozzv.jpg

Another look at the pivot and bearing. Note that the steel washer has a flat spot on the ID that matches a flat spot on the pivot to keep it from rotating. This also looks like it may have been hand ground. Also notice the bearing. It's different from side to side!
20161209_210708_zpslokheenv.jpg

A close up view of the assembled pivot
20161209_210317_zpsncgwwavb.jpg

Close up view of the bearing pocket.
20161209_210326_001_zpsalwfytbk.jpg
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could the white thread locker just be PTFE tape that they use for applying to the threads of plumbing pipes? that seems to be a good solution for pivots, as mentioned on this blog
http://blades-blades-blades.blogspot.sg/2016/05/flip-your-pivot.html

its also weird to see only KVT on all ZT models. you would think they would do dual row or triple row or ceramic or whatever on the higher end ZT's.
 
Mo2 said:
could the white thread locker just be PTFE tape that they use for applying to the threads of plumbing pipes? that seems to be a good solution for pivots, as mentioned on this blog
http://blades-blades-blades.blogspot.sg/2016/05/flip-your-pivot.html

its also weird to see only KVT on all ZT models. you would think they would do dual row or triple row or ceramic or whatever on the higher end ZT's.
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I don't think it was PTFE tape but it could have been a paste like this https://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-16-oz-Brush-Top-Can-Pipe-Thread-16NH11

Honestly I don't think they need better bearings. The biggest resistance to flipping is the detent ball on the blade. Without lock-bar tension every ZT I've owned will swing freely with just the weight of the blade. I'd rather see them move to a large diameter ceramic detent ball like CRK uses on the Umnumzaan.
 
Rubicon_Joey said:
Took these just minutes after getting it..
Two screws hold on a CF piece that hide the frame screws.
20161209_205528_zpsuqy0v9c2.jpg

The first frame screw looks like it was hand ground to make it fit.
20161209_205817_zpsiabbf4xu.jpg

The frame halves separated. Notice the bearing on this side of the knife.
20161209_210142_zpsila9a9i7.jpg

A detailed look at the pivot. The white is some kind of thread locker.
20161209_210228_zpsgjfyozzv.jpg

Another look at the pivot and bearing. Note that the steel washer has a flat spot on the ID that matches a flat spot on the pivot to keep it from rotating. This also looks like it may have been hand ground. Also notice the bearing. It's different from side to side!
20161209_210708_zpslokheenv.jpg

A close up view of the assembled pivot
20161209_210317_zpsncgwwavb.jpg

Close up view of the bearing pocket.
20161209_210326_001_zpsalwfytbk.jpg
Click to expand...

How old is this 0999? It cannot be old right? Notice the dimples on the ball bearing track in the pocket in the last picture. Are they formed as a result of bearings pressing the ti frame? Are they causing any gritty action?
 
sharp_edge said:
How old is this 0999? It cannot be old right? Notice the dimples on the ball bearing track in the pocket in the last picture. Are they formed as a result of bearings pressing the ti frame? Are they causing any gritty action?
Click to expand...

Those pictures were taken within just a few minutes of getting the knife, literally straight from the box, flipped a few times and then took it apart. I can't say for sure what caused them, but they aren't nearly as big as they appear (these pictures are larger than life) and you wouldn't know they were there if you never took the knife apart.
 
Great thread, I take apart every knife that comes apart and a few that didn't :) I used to post What makes my knife tick tutorials here who knows what happened to them, I know a lot were lost in the BF server migration in the early 2000s. I'll have to start doin' 'em again. It's also cool to see how you all lay out the pieces, some of you are very organized and others more haphazard (I'm somewhere in the middle myself ;) )

One last thing Cutlover, as good of an idea as using a magnet to keep the loose bearings together might seem, unless you degauss them before reinstalling them you risk the chance of the bearings now bein' magnetized attracting metal particles (ferrous) resulting in premature failure just my two cents. I just use a dab of grease or drop of oil, what ever I use to lube the bearings on a plate, it keeps them together and if you're using the same lube it makes it even easier to reassemble.

Here's the only one I found.

8.jpg
 
Blues Bender said:
That's interesting, and thought I was seeing a "pattern":D

I noticed that many Russians seem to have more courage towards using/disassembling their knives too. Vodka is good stuff!
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Or real voltage beer. I know a guy who even made by himself steel lock insert in his CRK Umnmumzumnamniamnanzan.:D
 
I'm first generation Hungarian American with my family's beliefs rooted securely in WWII and pre fall of communist block USSR control so as a kid I took apart everything. If it was broke it was the only way I was gonna get fixed. My Old Man used to tell me, "Anybody can take something apart, only a mechanic can do it the right way, fix whatever's wrong and put back together and you'd never know it."

Took me a few years to figure out what he meant but I've never stopped takin' stuff apart. Actually when they're brand new is the best time, this way you know what it looks like when everything works and nothin's broken. Makes it easier to fix ;) .
 
@MTNEER Which of the Shiro's faster & smoother, the one on ball or roller bearings?
 
Wolf7 said:
@MTNEER Which of the Shiro's faster & smoother, the one on ball or roller bearings?
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The roller bearings are the smoothest Shirogorovs that I've handled, but the multi row ball bearings are not far behind.
They actually make a multi row roller system but I've only seen pictures.
 
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