Dive Watches

[johneb3]

My Marathon Jumbo Day/Date

 

[badmatt]

I think the servicing on mechanical watches that are inexpensive like my Orients or Citizen may be problematic as they may not make parts for them ten years down the road. For higher quality brands this is probably less of an issue.

not as much as you would think. Parts are always available.. whether they are OEM or not is another question. The bigger issue is the cost to service some of these watches outweighs the cost of a new watch in some cases.

 

[GmpaJim]

My understanding is that the oils inside dry up after 6-7 years in most mechanical watches, even nice Swiss movements. So I tend to put them away in the safe after 5-6 years until I can get them serviced if possible.

If my local watchmaker is servicing a watch for which parts are readily available, worn parts will add to the cost. If it's going back to Omega or Rolex then the cost of service usually includes the parts needed to replace worn out parts, and I worry less about wearing those out.

So I’m better off to lose the winders and reset to wear? I have to adjust my mechanicals anyway.

 

[dogboye]

So I’m better off to lose the winders and reset to wear? I have to adjust my mechanicals anyway.

i BELIEVE, in theory, if the concern is the oils "drying up," or otherwise aging, then it isn't going to matter whether it is kept on a winder or not. That is a function of volatiles aging and oxidation. I think.
If it is a concern with just wear and tear on moving parts interaction, then letting them run down will prolong service intervals.
The only mechanicals/autos that I have are Seikos, either 7s26 or 4r36 movements (except one 6r15). Any of those will get serviced once they quit working.
I'd love to get a high-end mechanical, but I don't see it in the cards anytime soon.

 

[mauser9]

Bought the Seiko SRPA-83 4 years back. Nice blue dial with the 4R36 mechanical movement. Only complaint I have is it tends to lose maybe 3-4 minutes per month. Heard that is normal for this type of mechanical movement. Am sure it could be adjusted though. Heard they are out of production but still available on a few sites.

 

[dogboye]

Bought the Seiko SRPA-83 4 years back. Nice blue dial with the 4R36 mechanical movement. Only complaint I have is it tends to lose maybe 3-4 minutes per month. Heard that is normal for this type of mechanical movement. Am sure it could be adjusted though. Heard they are out of production but still available on a few sites.

The movement can definitely be adjusted. Not regulated. Well, I think it CAN be regulated, but takes special skill, as well as equipment, I think. But you can adjust it yourself, if you have a fairly steady hand, and patience. I adjusted the 4r36 my PADI Turtle to get it to about +2 seconds a day. There is quite a bit of information out on the webs and the tubes about how to do it, that explain it better than I can.

 

[mauser9]

The movement can definitely be adjusted. Not regulated. Well, I think it CAN be regulated, but takes special skill, as well as equipment, I think. But you can adjust it yourself, if you have a fairly steady hand, and patience. I adjusted the 4r36 my PADI Turtle to get it to about +2 seconds a day. There is quite a bit of information out on the webs and the tubes about how to do it, that explain it better than I can.

Thanks for the tip dogboye. Is a nice looking watch if ya like the 50mm size. I paid around $425 off Amazon but now have seen em for $650! Guess the quartz is tough to beat for accuracy. Not saying I will mess with it myself but a decent jeweler might be able. Mine has wind ability but probably not too different than the 7S26 movement

 

[dogboye]

Thanks for the tip dogboye. Is a nice looking watch if ya like the 50mm size. I paid around $425 off Amazon but now have seen em for $650! Guess the quartz is tough to beat for accuracy. Not saying I will mess with it myself but a decent jeweler might be able. Mine has wind ability but probably not too different than the 7S26 movement

A decent jeweler can do it for you. And in theory, he/she will have the watch-timer (I think it's called) to do it in short order, instead of the way I do it, which involves several weeks of getting an average between adjustments, sometimes. That's the patience part.

 

[badmatt]

To regulate a watch take it to some one who knows what they are doing. The timegrapher isn't always about +/- seconds per day.

 

[dogboye]

To regulate a watch take it to some one who knows what they are doing. The timegrapher isn't always about +/- seconds per day.

Agreed. Adjusting the timing only changes one parameter, while regulating it changes more things than I even know about. And if really needs regulating, I don't think a simple adjustment to achieve a +/- seconds/day will help it actually achieve a tighter timekeeping. In my cases (three so far), it has achieved the desired effect, and held. For the 7s26 and the 4r36, the information is out there to (potentially) do the same simple adjustment to one's own watch. Of course, anyone else's mileage may vary.

 

[mauser9]

Thanks again. Sounds like more BS than I thought. Well worth the cost to have it done correctly. Am not exactly mechanically inclined to begin with!

 

[DocJekl]

So I’m better off to lose the winders and reset to wear? I have to adjust my mechanicals anyway.

I have 10 winders from back in the day that can wind 17 watches but now I only use one of my 2-watch Wolf winders for the watches that I'm currently rotating, and I keep the rest in the safe until needed.

I do have 12 solar watches that I have out in glass topped cases that I can use in a pinch, some set for daylight saving time and some not. My expensive quartz watches are in the safe as well (Speedmaster X-33, Omega Bond Quartz, Grand Seiko, Tag Heuer F1, Bulova Moonwatches, etc). But I only reset the quartz "safe" watches when I want to wear them, as I have the stem pulled out to keep them from running down the battery.

I reset the time/date when I pull any of them out of the safe to wear, and then I wear them until I get tired of them (2-60 days). Or, if they gain/loose too much time over a few weeks, then I figure if I'm going to reset the time then I might as well just rotate them back into the safe at that point.

My Luminox Automatic and My Rolex DSSD Deep Blue are in rotation right now, and before that it was the Deep Blue and SD43. Before that it was my SD43 and Moonwatch (the DSSD was in service for running +2.5 sec/day and lost lume pip on bezel). My DSSD Deep Blue has almost quartz-like accuracy (like stays between +0.8 to -0.4 sec/day) and so it's stayed in rotation since Sept 10th when I got it back from Rolex service.

I pulled the Luminox out recently when I wanted to post some Tritium lume pics here, while giving the Moonwatch a break. The Luminox has only gained 48.2 seconds in 11.0 days, for an average of +4.39 sec/day (and today it's +1.5 seconds in the past 9.2 hours for +4.0 sec/day). It is well within COSC certification specs. Probably around the beginning of December the Luminox will be 1.5 minutes ahead of atomic time and may get swapped out for something like my Pepsi GMT II, or my Tudor Pepsi GMT. What I love about the Luminox is that is is very light-weight, and sometimes it's nice to not be wearing a big "Fck Off" watch.

Too dark and too much zoom - can't even tell it's the Luminox...

 

[dogboye]

I have 10 winders from back in the day that can wind 17 watches but now I only use one of my 2-watch Wolf winders for the watches that I'm currently rotating, and I keep the rest in the safe until needed.

I do have 12 solar watches that I have out in glass topped cases that I can use in a pinch, some set for daylight saving time and some not. My expensive quartz watches are in the safe as well (Speedmaster X-33, Omega Bond Quartz, Grand Seiko, Tag Heuer F1, Bulova Moonwatches, etc). But I only reset the quartz "safe" watches when I want to wear them, as I have the stem pulled out to keep them from running down the battery.

I reset the time/date when I pull any of them out of the safe to wear, and then I wear them until I get tired of them (2-60 days). Or, if they gain/loose too much time over a few weeks, then I figure if I'm going to reset the time then I might as well just rotate them back into the safe at that point.

My Luminox Automatic and My Rolex DSSD Deep Blue are in rotation right now, and before that it was the Deep Blue and SD43. Before that it was my SD43 and Moonwatch (the DSSD was in service for running +2.5 sec/day and lost lume pip on bezel). My DSSD Deep Blue has almost quartz-like accuracy (like stays between +0.8 to -0.4 sec/day) and so it's stayed in rotation since Sept 10th when I got it back from Rolex service.

I pulled the Luminox out recently when I wanted to post some Tritium lume pics here, while giving the Moonwatch a break. The Luminox has only gained 48.2 seconds in 11.0 days, for an average of +4.39 sec/day (and today it's +1.5 seconds in the past 9.2 hours for +4.0 sec/day). It is well within COSC certification specs. Probably around the beginning of December the Luminox will be 1.5 minutes ahead of atomic time and may get swapped out for something like my Pepsi GMT II, or my Tudor Pepsi GMT. What I love about the Luminox is that is is very light-weight, and sometimes it's nice to not be wearing a big "Fck Off" watch.

Too dark and too much zoom - can't even tell it's the Luminox...
View attachment 1995598

Dang, dude... err... sir! You have some NICE watches. And the only Rolex I'd actually like to have, the DSSD (blue, black, either one is SH).
I wonder if pulling the stem out on a Breitling Aerospace Avantage would make the batter last longer. I've never checked to see if that stops the hands. I'm currently in the midst of a runaround on mine. The battery was indicating EOL, so I took it to the watch shop that I've taken it to several times before to get the battery replaced. I practically watched them do it (so I know the battery was replaced), but now the lighting in the displays is VERY weak. Over on the watch site, O2AFAC67 troubleshot it, and it turns out they installed the wrong battery. I just haven't made it back by yet. But once I get it replaced correctly, I'd LiKE to try to make it last a little longer.

 

[dogboye]

Thanks again. Sounds like more BS than I thought. Well worth the cost to have it done correctly. Am not exactly mechanically inclined to begin with!

It is worth the cost, if you have a shop nearby that you trust to do it. See above.... I DID.... but I'm not sure I'd trust them with adjusting a mechanical or auto, now. I'm quite a bit miffed about them flubbing the battery replacement. First time I opened up a 7s26, I was scared to death. Still intimidated. But I like the results. AGAIN, though, anyone else's mileage may vary. And I like tinkering.

 

[badmatt]

I wonder if pulling the stem out on a Breitling Aerospace Avantage would make the batter last longer. I've never checked to see if that stops the hands.

With quartz watches it isnt the best idea, batteries do leak over time. batteries are cheap, a Breitling service isnt.

With your watch the correct battery in imperative to that watches well being. As there is a thicker version and when installing it can crack the digital screen in the watch. Heres a fun video to watch on the subject.

 

[dogboye]

With quartz watches it isnt the best idea, batteries do leak over time. batteries are cheap, a Breitling service isnt.

With your watch the correct battery in imperative to that watches well being. As there is a thicker version and when installing it can crack the digital screen in the watch. Heres a fun video to watch on the subject.

DAAAAAAAANG!
Now I understand why a full Breitling Aerospace service costs so much!
I'm SO glad they didn't put too THICK a battery in it.
I think I also notice in this video that the rubber seal on mine is in the wrong place. DA**!
THAT is why in SO many things, I prefer to do them myself if at all possible. I just don't trust anyone to do anything correctly anymore.

 

[mauser9]

It is worth the cost, if you have a shop nearby that you trust to do it. See above.... I DID.... but I'm not sure I'd trust them with adjusting a mechanical or auto, now. I'm quite a bit miffed about them flubbing the battery replacement. First time I opened up a 7s26, I was scared to death. Still intimidated. But I like the results. AGAIN, though, anyone else's mileage may vary. And I like tinkering.

I hear ya! Hate to tinker myself and I know These dive watches often sell for a lot on E-Bay. Heard my model is discontinued and may be a favorite to collectors down the road. had the original "Arnie" back around 1981. Was digital plus analog. Battery powered. Paid around $215 back then and sold it on E-Bay for $650. Now I see Seiko has come out with them again! Might be solar now. Also owned the first "Orange Monster" bought back in 1972. Saucer shaped case with that 7S26 auto mechanical I believe. Paid $89.50 new and sold for $300 5 years back. Pays to keep em up.

 

[DocJekl]

I hear ya! Hate to tinker myself and I know These dive watches often sell for a lot on E-Bay. Heard my model is discontinued and may be a favorite to collectors down the road. had the original "Arnie" back around 1981. Was digital plus analog. Battery powered. Paid around $215 back then and sold it on E-Bay for $650. Now I see Seiko has come out with them again! Might be solar now. Also owned the first "Orange Monster" bought back in 1972. Saucer shaped case with that 7S26 auto mechanical I believe. Paid $89.50 new and sold for $300 5 years back. Pays to keep em up.

Yeah, my Arnie is a solar version (also noticed autocorrupt changed Arnie to Arnold in a previous post). Speaking of solar powered, here is a Citizen 300M Eco-Drive diver that my son gave me about 9 years ago for Father's Day (old pics).




I haven't even posted pics of my Omega Planet Ocean 9300 Ti Liquid Metal chronograph, or my Seamaster Pro ceramic bezel chronograph. The've been on bed rest since they are over 7 years old and need to get serviced before I wear them anymore. At $750 per co-axial movement watch for a service, and with all the knives I've bought lately, I'm reluctant to send them in just now...

 

[DocJekl]

Dang, dude... err... sir! You have some NICE watches. And the only Rolex I'd actually like to have, the DSSD (blue, black, either one is SH).
I wonder if pulling the stem out on a Breitling Aerospace Avantage would make the batter last longer. I've never checked to see if that stops the hands. I'm currently in the midst of a runaround on mine. The battery was indicating EOL, so I took it to the watch shop that I've taken it to several times before to get the battery replaced. I practically watched them do it (so I know the battery was replaced), but now the lighting in the displays is VERY weak. Over on the watch site, O2AFAC67 troubleshot it, and it turns out they installed the wrong battery. I just haven't made it back by yet. But once I get it replaced correctly, I'd LiKE to try to make it last a little longer.

I know that my Omega Solar Impulse X-33 "Skywalker" generation (3rd?) keeps time with the crown pulled out, and moves the hands to 12 o'clock resting position, and when I push in the crown the time returns to normal. I usually get my quartz battery powered watches serviced at around 5 years, even if I've been pulling the crowns out to get the battery to last past 24-42 months.

My watch shop has several watchmakers and clock repairmen, and is excellent about installing the right batteries and gaskets on my quartz watches.

 

[mauser9]

Nice pics of the Citizen Eco-Drive. Had one years back and it kept excellent time and nothing to mess with. Bought my wife a dress watch Citizen Eco years back and has not failed. Always looking and could be my next dive watch.