Doug Ritter Grip

Thank you for the kind words. It really is nice to get this sort of positive feedback on this after all the time and effort and worrying we put into making it happen.

SpyderPhreak said:
The only negative I can say is that I *may* have one with the gritty axis lock problem. :grumpy: This is the first axis I have actually owned, but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't feel like this (based on the others I've handled).

I can actually move the axis bar side-to-side in the handle (perpendicular to the scales) by about 0.030" - 0.050". Because of this play, I can also cant the axis bar slightly in the handle (so its not perpendicular when you look at it from the back of the handle). I am able to active the axis lock with just my thumb, but I have fairly large and strong hands and it doesn't slide easily. My thumb is getting sore though. :rolleyes: When activated with two fingers, the axis bar moves freely. I didn't notice this at first, but the more and more I use (play with) the knife today, the worse it seems to be getting (that or I'm just noticing it more).
So my question to you all is this: Would you consider what I have described as one of the defective locks? Should this be sent back to BM for service?
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First off, if you aren't happy, neither I nor I suspect Benchmade will be happy. So, by all means, talk to Angie in Benchmade's warranty department about getting it sorted out if necessary (toll-free 1-800-800-7427 ext:150). Now, some AXIS Lock actions are smoother than others, that's simply the nature of a production process, even with Benchmade's high standards, but if anything it should improve somewhat with use, not get worse. What you describe as "gritty" doesn't sound right to me. Operation of the lock with a single finger/thumb is noticeably more difficult than using two, but it shouldn't be terribly hard for most folks. My wife cannot do it, but she has arthritis. It does seem to become easier with practice. For comparison, you may want to stop by a knife shop and try some other AXIS Lock knives to see how they feel. With regards to the rest, that all sounds pretty normal, there is some side play and enough to allow you to cock the bar slightly as described. If there wasn't then even the slightest bit of dirt could cause function problems. You don't want an extremely tight fit in the slot. What's critical is that when it locks up, then it is solid.

Hope this helps and thanks again for the positive feedback.

Doug
 
Thanks for the explanation Doug, mine should be getting here Friday. This will be my first real knife purchased. Had some swiss army and stuff like that in the past but this will be my first knife that I plan to EDC. I am looking forward to using the knife as I have found myself needing it more and more since I planned to buy it. As my friend and I say "go big or go home" so I figured what the hell and bought it over the regular griptilian, and it sounds from most people on here that I made the right decision.
 
Well, I realize I'm chiming in rather late, but I've also had the problem with the lockbar on my axis canting a bit. This does make it catch, and difficult to operate with just one finger.

However, on mine, it was fixed very easily. The "studs" on either end of the lockbar are actually nuts, threaded onto the lockbar. Mine were loose, allowing too much play & canting. Simply screw them tight again & secure them with threadlocker or superglue, and the action works perfectly again. Notice these studs or nuts have a hole drilled through sideways- I assume they use a special pliers or wrench at the factory to tighten the nuts via these holes. You can improvise something to engage the holes to tighten them if they're hard to turn.

After a while of use, my Ares got much smoother as well. You could see where the studs on the lockbar wore the liners 'till they were shiny.
 
the possum said:
Well, I realize I'm chiming in rather late, but I've also had the problem with the lockbar on my axis canting a bit. This does make it catch, and difficult to operate with just one finger.

However, on mine, it was fixed very easily. The "studs" on either end of the lockbar are actually nuts, threaded onto the lockbar. Mine were loose, allowing too much play & canting. Simply screw them tight again & secure them with threadlocker or superglue, and the action works perfectly again. Notice these studs or nuts have a hole drilled through sideways- I assume they use a special pliers or wrench at the factory to tighten the nuts via these holes. You can improvise something to engage the holes to tighten them if they're hard to turn.

After a while of use, my Ares got much smoother as well. You could see where the studs on the lockbar wore the liners 'till they were shiny.
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I'm glad you mentioned that. I was studying those very carefully and thought they might be some kind of nut. I just didn't want to mess with them unless I knew for sure.

After more use, I think the Axis bar is getting a little smoother. I have found that I can actuate opening the knife with either just my thumb or both my thumb and pointer finger with the same amount of dexterity. Actually, using both fingers seems to give me a better overall grip on the knife anyway.

Mr. Ritter, I love this knife! I really like the wide chord blade, and the combination of deep grind and 30 degree edge make this a great slicer. As I said before, this is the best factory edge I've yet to see! Very well executed!

I will wait for a little while before contacting BM for service. If the current trend keeps up, I think the Axis bar will be fine after a bit of 'wear in'. Like you said, if it was too tight, that would be even worse. Thanks!

And I echo the comment of another BF member from earlier; It's good to see you here chatting with us about the knife that you helped bring to life! :D
 
jrbrangi said:
thanks guys, can't wait till friday.
Man I have nothing better to do with my time.
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Bring it down so I can play!!

Quick question...the Limited Edition Serialized, are the number values being assigned on a "first-come-first-served" basis? Or will it be random?
 
Can anyone post some more pics?

This is on my shortlist. It would be higher on the list if it utilized G-10.
 
My axis became significantly smoother after I flicked the blade out about 30 times. I don't flick my blades as a general rule, but felt this knife could use some extra break in and I didn't feel like doing a disassembly/polish job.

I can unlock mine using only my thumb, only my forefinger, or both. I'd say the bar cants ~25 degrees when using only one stud.
 
shootist16 said:
Can anyone post some more pics?
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You will find some fairly detailed images at:http://www.DougRitter.com/dr_rsk_mk1.htm

shootist16 said:
This is on my shortlist. It would be higher on the list if it utilized G-10.
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Wish I could offer that as an option for a moderate upcharge, but right now that's not possible. Purely a matter of production economics. OTOH, from a purely functional standpoint, we've had zero complaints about the Noryl GTX handles and it's won over a fair number of skeptics. You'll never get away from the "plastic sound", but in terms of function it just plain works. Aeromedix has a 100% money back gaurantee for 30 days, so you're not risking a lot to try it. http://www.aeromedix.com/index.php?_siteid=aeromedix&action=html&path=info/whybuy.html

Doug
 
Well it finally came at 6:30 and it was well worth the wait, this blade is incredibly sharp out of the box. After a few opening it is a smooth as butter. The axis lock is going to take some getting used to but I see its definite advantages over the liner lock. Perfect size too, and the weight is light but not so light that it feels like nothing in your hand. Also the noryl gtx handle feels great, it doesn't have a plastic feel at all. Overall I am really happy with this purchase.
 
To smooth out an Axis lock, you can try some very mild metal polish on the contact surfaces. Use something like Flitz or Mother's Billet. Don't use anything really strong, like Simichrome, and us it sparingly. A Q-tip will get in there.

The BM factory uses Militec-1 conditioner/lube on pivots and moving parts, but they don't seem to use heat to set the conditioner. Apply the Militec sparingly (I use a needle tip applicator) to the bronze washers and the contact points of the Axis mechanism (the bar, the studs, and the area of the blade that contacts the bar). Then heat up the areas carefully using a hair dryer for about 5-10 minutes (don't melt the plastic!). It will guickly get too hot to touch any of the metal. Let it cool naturally, and remove the excess Militec.
 
Critter said:
The serialized RSK Mk1 knives are being sold first come, first served. As of this morning, I checked with Aeromedix and there are 7 left.
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Gotcha, I saw that on the ws, what I mean to ask was, the actual numbers of the blades (a lot of collectors prefer lower numbers, yes?) are these randomly assigned or will the first person who ordered get the lowest number?
 
I just cannot hold it anymore after reading so much good feedback. I just ordered mine and it is going to arrive next week. I am in search of a good medium size folder for EDC/outdoor with a good price/performance ratio. The RitterGrip seems a very good fit to my requirement. Also, Aeromedix said there were only three serial numbered version left.


This will be a very long weekend looking at the web site pictures. :p :p
 
Damolk said:
Gotcha, I saw that on the ws, what I mean to ask was, the actual numbers of the blades (a lot of collectors prefer lower numbers, yes?) are these randomly assigned or will the first person who ordered get the lowest number?
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Numbers are assigned first come, first serve. IOW, first person who called got #2 of 100 (#1 will be raffled off to raise funds for ETS Foundation), last person (99th) gets #100 of 100. At least that's the way it's supposed to work. I understand that the order taker the first day was confused and a few early birds did get a requested specific number after she assured them, incorrectly, that they could do so. Aeromedix honored her error in those few cases.

WRT low numbers being preferable, it doesn't appear to make much difference in value with limited edition runs of production knives such as this. <shrug> I am no expert in this, you'd want to get a more knowledgeable opinion if it really matters to you.

Hope this answers your question.

Doug
 
I love all the feedback on this knife (I'm sure Mr. Ritter does too!) It has really upped the ante on affordable folders made with excellent steel. :cool:
 
After a good bit of use and being carried for about two weeks, my axis lock has smoothed out. So call me a happy camper! :D I REALLY like this knife!!! I think it has currently bumped my black blade Spydie Military for EDC. :barf:

I managed to injure myself with the Ritter last week though. :rolleyes: I was at a local BM dealer and looking at some other Grips to compare the axis lock on my Ritter to just to make sure mine was OK. I had just finished looking at one and handed it back to the salesman to return to the case.

As I was one-handed closing my knife (not being as careful as I should have been) I spotted a 630 Skirmish in the corner of the case. My heart skipped a beat, and then I felt the sharp pain of being cut! :grumpy: I managed to catch the tip of my pinky under the blade as I was flipping it shut! :mad: Now as you can imagine, with as sharp as this knife is from the factory, it dug pretty deep. It hit my finger just past the nail, and cut at roughly a 45 degree angle a little more than halfway through the tip of my finger!!! :o

I probably should have gone to the hospital and got this stitched up, but being 4:30pm on a Friday afternoon (last week) I didn't feel like sitting in a waiting room all evening. I was bleeding pretty badly, so I got some TP and wrapped the tip of my finger tightly. I came back to the counter and looked at the Skirmish quickly and fell in love with it, though I got the impression that the salesman was leery of letting me see it after just pulling a moronic move and cutting myself with my own knife (not like I blame him)! :footinmou I did manage to go home with a new Skirmish though!!! :D First production 717/1000.

I went home and cleaned/disinfected the cut and closed it up with a couple of butterfly sutures. Had the cut been on my left hand instead of my right, I would have stitched it up myself at home (I have a few different sizes of sterile stitching kits). It is healing very well, and is now completely closed back up. I credit that in large to the nice SHARP blade of the RitterGrip that made the cut; cuts from sharp knives always seem to heal better. It's been quite awhile since I've cut myself, but I guess that if you handle knives often it's bound to happen to even the best of us every now and then. :(
 
Doug,

Is there any way to order from you direct or through Aeromedix without using UPS? Aeromedix charge $25.50 and then UPS tack on their 'brokerage' fee when it gets here. This means paying around 40-45% of the value of the knife in shipping. I like the knife but this is hard to swallow....

Are there any other Canadians who have ordered and what was your landed price?

Wayne
 
Wayne,

Wish I could help, but Aeromedix is the exclusive source for the RSK and I really don't have any say in their shipping policies.

Doug
 
Wayne,
Be carefule bringing the Ritter into Canada. Many customs officials might consider an Axis lock a gravity opener.
 
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