Down time knife WIP

Just for fun, here’s a shot of the up timer and down timer so far.

I came down with a virus the other day so it’s all down time from the up time and down time right now… nap time.

Yin and yang:
http://mail.colonial.net/~hkaiter/photo_images/mandalachakras.jpg

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The up time knife is from ¼ inch 1075,… 10 incher, gnarly.
 
I just finished up the big gnarly one. Looks like I might have some time to work on the WIP knife now. I'm waiting for a sheath on another project.


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Thanks Phil. The guy wanted a lot of texture. That's the gnarliest stag I had. Hope he likes it. :)
 
I hope he wears gloves when he uses it, or he can strike matches in the palm of his hands. That looks like it could be rough on my delicate, baby-like skin.

The knife is quite cool, I am just playing around. It does look a little rough, though.

kc
 
Thanks Kevin. Yes, it is rough, but that's what my customer wanted. I sent him the pix and he's very happy with it. I'm not sure if he plans on using it or not. I does remind me of an antique "cutler's art" type of thing. It maybe fashionable in a way, like uncomfortable jewelry.


It's a manly man's knife. :)
 
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It's a manly man's knife. :)
Ha, ha, ha...a gnarly/manly good looking stylish knife. That will keep those man-jewelry-knife critics on their toes.

I enjoy the bronze look with the stag colors. Also like the way you left the brow point cutoff proud rather than flushing it to the beam surface. Is the handle pinned to the tang anywhere? And how did you set the butt cap?
 
Ha, ha, ha...a gnarly/manly good looking stylish knife. That will keep those man-jewelry-knife critics on their toes.

I enjoy the bronze look with the stag colors. Also like the way you left the brow point cutoff proud rather than flushing it to the beam surface. Is the handle pinned to the tang anywhere? And how did you set the butt cap?

Phil, The brow tine cut off is where the pin is. Actually what your seeing is copper and not stag. You ask me why I know that. Tai and I have a psyche connection. This could be BS to..... :D
 
I really like that knife Tai. Thanks for sharing your work. Hope you get better!

I love the curvy blade on the down time knife. Can't wait to see it done. It is inspiring.
 
Phil, The brow tine cut off is where the pin is. Actually what your seeing is copper and not stag. You ask me why I know that. Tai and I have a psyche connection. This could be BS to..... :D
Knowing you guys, it could be both true and BS at the same time!
 
Yeah, there's a stem brazed onto the bronze part that cover the brow tine spot and it's pinned through the tang with it. The end cap also has a stem brazed on.
 
I just finished up the big gnarly one. Looks like I might have some time to work on the WIP knife now. I'm waiting for a sheath on another project.
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I love it Tai. You really have an talent for choosing the right parts, materials, size, etc to make it all fit together, be visually pleasing and conveying a "feeling". Sorry if I am not explaining what I mean very well. Bottom line, You have talent...I love your knives.:D
 
Tai, that is a real work of art. I love the guard and other fittings. Do you have a picture of the other side too? I'd love to see it.
 
Thanks.

The only pic of the other side is the third one from the top. Just got back from the P.O. So, it's already gone.
 
Nice one Tai, I really like the fittings, the whole thing just looks right!!!! It appears the ferrule is copper, what is the guard made of?

Jerry Fisher
 
All the fittings are bronze (with patina) except the round wire accents on the ferrule, which are copper.
 
Prior to the planishing, straighten and finishing heats, I stoned the scale off manually, so as not to hammer scale into the surface. Also, kissed the profile with a bench grinder to remove slight irregularities from the forging, which makes easier to see what's going on with the back and edge during straightening. The finishing heats are done at low forging temps., for a several reasons, to avoid excessive scaling, for grain refinement and since I’m not moving the steel much, higher heats aren’t necessary.

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I used a surface with a slight radius to work the edge/bevel inside the recurve.

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The tang is bent down to match the curve of the handle.

Lastly, thermal cycling (normalizing, stress relieving) and air cooling from progressively lower heats, the tail end of which were done below critical.

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I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to make the transition from blade to handle yet, so I probably won't heat treat it any further until I work all that out... It needs a little stock reduction first anyway.
 
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I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to make the transition from blade to handle yet, so I probably won't heat treat it any further until I work all that out... It needs a little stock reduction first anyway.

How about something like this:

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Ray, I like that, but...

I'm thinking some type of ferrule, without a guard. I'll probably do a copper ferrule of some sort... still pondering though... don't want to spoil the adventure for myself yet.... trying not to over think it until I get to it.
 
I stoned it off a little to get a better look at the surface.

I think the texture of the blade will go nice with the stag, but I am going to dress the blade towards the edge a little first.

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I think I might have lost about 1/64 in thickness along the back, but it’s still O.K.

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The edge has a reverse distal taper, thinnest towards the handle for close work and thickest towards the point.

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