Fairly Knives Chat Thread!

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Sunday Gun day!

Here's my new upper with my 6.8 upper. The .20 Practical is on the bottom. Just need optics for it and it's done!

2015-05-10%2010.32.38_zpsdcn1isqu.jpg



-Xander
 
Sup folks. I did not get much sleep before going to the cycling event but COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE helped me through the day. Good times, free wine and BBQ... Plus I got paid to be there.:thumbup:
Have a good one.
 
btw- Daniel. You know your stuff. A friend asked me about the lock-spring cut out on a Framelock, aka, RIL. Questions:
Is it really necessary?
Does the cut out make that part of the frame weak?
Does it matter which side the cut out is on?
Thanks!!
 
Coffee time! Good morning!

Framelock cut out - necessary for sure, otherwise the action will be very stiff. Titanium is very springy but there is a point where it just won't move. A really thick frame will put so much pressure on the detent ball it will barely move too. A framelock with a thinner spring will be smoother and unlock (when you want it to) with ease.

If knife has lock rock or does not engage strongly (for example a spine whack unlocks it easily) this has little to do with the lock thickness or cut out thickness. The engagement area is very small and design is the key element here.

I have tried all sorts of things as the combo between thickness and spring pressure have quite a lot to do with framelock action. .100: is roughly the cutoff for a knife to function and .070" will give you a strong lock with nice smooth action. My Ken Onion Ripple linerlock probably has a lock that is only .040" thick and the lock itself is very strong.

Weaken the frame - thicker is stronger but I feel a thicker overall frame is going to add rigidity to the knife which is important in keeping it working well

Smoothness in a folder has way more to do with the lock thickness the the bearings or washers. (but bearings allow you to crank the pivot tight for less chance of side to side play) Most of my folders have almost no friction on the blade if I press the lock spring away. Add a thicker lock and the detent pressure goes way up. This can be compensated with a very smooth face where the detent travels.

I tend to go on the side of a thicker lock, it makes sense on a framelock to me. I like thinner lock cutouts with lock bar stabilizer as once they are really thin you probably need one to avoid an accidental over opening.

The lockbar cut out - When the point the lock moves from changes the sweep of the arc will change... so with an outside cut out the arc is less, this can make a lock that is a tiny but stronger and lasts a bit longer... but not by much. Both ways are good in my opinion.


Design is the most important element in my opinion, there are so many trade off's that one must balance everything nicely.
 
Oh yeah... where a lock engages is very important. It's more important for lock up strength than lock thickness in my opinion.

Draw a line from the pivot center to the lock engagement area... then a 90 angle back from that. That tangent line is where the force is going when pressure is applied to the lock. (this is very important when I design a knife) You want the force going back into the frame as opposed to flexing the bar upwards. Strong is good but what will do better, brute strength or mechanical advantage?

There is an extremely popular framelock designed in a way where the lock is almost behind the pivot... you hear a lot about these getting sent back for work when they develop lock rock, disengage frequently or wear out. You want a bit of distance between the pivot center and the lock up area.
 
Morning guys!

Back to work today, but I'm going to try and get some gun work in before then.

Coffee........


-X
 
I love to read posts like these in a Monday morning thanks for sharing Dan! Sup guys!!!:D
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Coffee time! Good morning!

Framelock cut out - necessary for sure, otherwise the action will be very stiff. Titanium is very springy but there is a point where it just won't move. A really thick frame will put so much pressure on the detent ball it will barely move too. A framelock with a thinner spring will be smoother and unlock (when you want it to) with ease.

If knife has lock rock or does not engage strongly (for example a spine whack unlocks it easily) this has little to do with the lock thickness or cut out thickness. The engagement area is very small and design is the key element here.

I have tried all sorts of things as the combo between thickness and spring pressure have quite a lot to do with framelock action. .100: is roughly the cutoff for a knife to function and .070" will give you a strong lock with nice smooth action. My Ken Onion Ripple linerlock probably has a lock that is only .040" thick and the lock itself is very strong.

Weaken the frame - thicker is stronger but I feel a thicker overall frame is going to add rigidity to the knife which is important in keeping it working well

Smoothness in a folder has way more to do with the lock thickness the the bearings or washers. (but bearings allow you to crank the pivot tight for less chance of side to side play) Most of my folders have almost no friction on the blade if I press the lock spring away. Add a thicker lock and the detent pressure goes way up. This can be compensated with a very smooth face where the detent travels.

I tend to go on the side of a thicker lock, it makes sense on a framelock to me. I like thinner lock cutouts with lock bar stabilizer as once they are really thin you probably need one to avoid an accidental over opening.

The lockbar cut out - When the point the lock moves from changes the sweep of the arc will change... so with an outside cut out the arc is less, this can make a lock that is a tiny but stronger and lasts a bit longer... but not by much. Both ways are good in my opinion.


Design is the most important element in my opinion, there are so many trade off's that one must balance everything nicely.
Click to expand...

Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Oh yeah... where a lock engages is very important. It's more important for lock up strength than lock thickness in my opinion.

Draw a line from the pivot center to the lock engagement area... then a 90 angle back from that. That tangent line is where the force is going when pressure is applied to the lock. (this is very important when I design a knife) You want the force going back into the frame as opposed to flexing the bar upwards. Strong is good but what will do better, brute strength or mechanical advantage?

There is an extremely popular framelock designed in a way where the lock is almost behind the pivot... you hear a lot about these getting sent back for work when they develop lock rock, disengage frequently or wear out. You want a bit of distance between the pivot center and the lock up area.
Click to expand...
Daniel, I just learned so much from these two posts! Big respect always!
oh yeah, COFFEE!
 
A BIG thank you, Daniel!
I KNEW you'd try different ideas with your folder locks!
Hi guys!
 
Thanks guys! I could talk folder design all day... I hope to get to this new flipper soon, I have not shown the design but it is cool! i like it better than my previous design...

Big day here, I'm finally finishing up a lot of knives this week! I did the final handle glue up on the Wa handle utility, it is the sharpest knife I have ever experienced. :eek:

I have a new friction folder ready that is just nuts too!!!
 
we need pics.. well.. I sure as hell need pics! :D

Hope your day was good... keep it going!
 
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