Recommendation? First folder EDC

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WeekSecret

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Apr 28, 2021
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A bit of context here;

I got a leatherman surge and I'm thinking about heavily modifying it, making it more a WDC than EDC, maybe removing the blade in the process.

I think I would like a better folding knife, I'm currently looking at the benchmade bugout, either in 20cv or s90v.

I intend to EDC it, which include food prep and maybe light woodworking. I should also mention that I intend to buy only one knife (IF I can limit myself), so budget isn't too much of a worrie.

So my question are;

Should I expect a stronger mecanism? Is there another type from another compagny that's better?

Is making featherstick considered abusive? Where would be the limit?

Since I intend to do food prep, is the s90v okay or should I go for the 20cv, which is more corrosion resistant?

My guess is since it's a folder, edge retention is more valuable than toughness?

Do I ask too many question?
 
No such thing as too many questions. I like both steels. I would recommend Spyderco and Zero Tolerance, specifically the ZT 0470 (20cv) or a Spyderco PM2 in whatever steel you can find.
 
A fixed blade would be a better choice for food prep and the types of outdoorsy tasks you're describing (feather sticks, etc.). No lock to worry about, no moving parts to gum up.

That said, the Axis lock is plenty strong enough for those tasks, and making feather sticks certainly isn't abuse. Either steel you mentioned will be fine, too. Don't baton with it (or, really, any folder). ;)

The Bugout is a light, and fairly slender, knife. If I was going to use a knife on wood for any length of time, I'd want something more hand-filling.

As to whether edge retention matters more than toughness, it comes down to personal preference and where you think the balance of your tasks will land. The classic BF solution is to buy two knives, so in your situation that might be one light, slim folder -- like the Bugout -- with excellent edge retention for your EDC tasks, and a larger, more hand-filling knife in a steel optimized for . . . not "toughness," I think that's too nebulous a term; maybe for "taking a beating" or being more likely to roll than chip.
 
Benchmade Bugout is a good choice. I, for one, would look at the Buck 112 Slim Pro, as well.
 
Dadpool said:
A fixed blade would be a better choice for food prep and the types of outdoorsy tasks you're describing (feather sticks, etc.). No lock to worry about, no moving parts to gum up.
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I'm already pilling up money for a CRK Pacific, so heavy duty work will be covered. As for food process, it's mostly cutting fruit and such for my kid, I'm not planning on meat or fish.
Dadpool said:
That said, the Axis lock is plenty strong enough for those tasks, and making feather sticks certainly isn't abuse. Either steel you mentioned will be fine, too. Don't baton with it (or, really, any folder). ;)
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I was afraid because I'm good to break stuff. I already knew about batonning and chopping, for the rest "any" folder should be able to do featherstick? I'm not talking about the wood shaving kind, but more the wood chipping kind.
Dadpool said:
As to whether edge retention matters more than toughness, it comes down to personal preference and where you think the balance of your tasks will land. The classic BF solution is to buy two knives, so in your situation that might be one light, slim folder -- like the Bugout -- with excellent edge retention for your EDC tasks, and a larger, more hand-filling knife in a steel optimized for . . . not "toughness," I think that's too nebulous a term; maybe for "taking a beating" or being more likely to roll than chip.
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I read somewhere that toughness is "classed" as how much flex force a blade cam take before snapping, making it in my head pretty useless for a folder? Even if it's for general blade strenght, in the end I think it's mostly the lock that define the limits no?
 
Bastler said:
Benchmade Bugout is a good choice. I, for one, would look at the Buck 112 Slim Pro, as well.
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I love those profile, but I hate those lock.

My father have a knife like this and I remember accidentally closing it on my finger when I was a kid. My blades are a lot sharper than my father and now I got kid too. In my head it's not a matter of if, but a matter of when history will repeat, so I'm totally close to thoses locks.
 
How important is weight and corrosion resistance? The Spyderco Gayle Bradley 1 and 2 are fantastic knives, CPM-M4 has both great edge retention and toughness. Its a bit heavy at 5.5 oz, but overall really excellent. The great thing about Spyderco is that most of their models are customizable and very ergonomic.

Gayle Bradley 1:

https://imgur.com/a/ozNZgQd

PM2 with burlap micarta and S30v

https://imgur.com/a/ahFedjV
 
Lots of great options out there but whether or not you have a budget matters. Food prep combined with feather sticking is an interesting combination. Have you considered LC200N, 154CM, CPM 3V, etc? I don’t think you can go wrong with Spyderco, maybe a PM2, Manix or Shaman, tons of options really within the Spyderco brand. I know you didn’t mention S35VN but you may want to look into Chris Reeve knives, Large Sebenza or Large Inkosi Tanto( either of these will last you a lifetime more than likely and will hold up to heavier use). What’s your budget?
 
WeekSecret said:
I already knew about batonning and chopping, for the rest "any" folder should be able to do featherstick? I'm not talking about the wood shaving kind, but more the wood chipping kind.
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I am only familiar with the wood-shaving kind, sorry. If chipping is like chopping, I don't know how much help an ultralight blade will be.
 
All great suggestions. Have a look at the Hogue RSK, If you are considering the Bugout, then even the Mini might be enough. I would also think about a fixed blade in this case. Kephart, Bravo 1 LT, Aurora LT, Bushcrafter ultralite, something with a thinner stock. Cant go wrong with a puukko (eg Marttiini), or even just a with a Mora or Hultafors.

I slightly prefer S90V over 20CV, but they are both plenty good.
 
The Bugout is a fine design with nice steel options, but for me by the time you upgrade to a decent "non plastic" handle option it gets a bit pricey.
I would look for designs similar to the Bugout though,...thin stock, high flat or hollow grind, ambi opening.
Liners and better stiffer handle slabs are good too IMO.
Have a look at Kershaw, Civivi, Real steel, or just try something different an spend a few bucks on an Opinel, it will cut better😉
 
I prefer the spyderco endura.
Slim design with a comfortable grip.

I think just about any decent knife could perform all the tasks your describing.
With the steel choices, that is preference of the user.
I try to stay clear of cv20.
I tend to prefer S30v, lc200n, tool steels etc .
 
Hogue Deka. Simply because of the Wolff springs in their Able lock are more robust than those in the Benchmade Axis lock.

I own both, so no dog in the fight. Just experience with both.
 
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kobold said:
All great suggestions. Have a look at the Hogue RSK, If you are considering the Bugout, then even the Mini might be enough. I would also think about a fixed blade in this case. Kephart, Bravo 1 LT, Aurora LT, Bushcrafter ultralite, something with a thinner stock. Cant go wrong with a puukko (eg Marttiini), or even just a with a Mora or Hultafors.

I slightly prefer S90V over 20CV, but they are both plenty good.
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I like this combo, personally. Hogue RSK for EDC + Mora for beating on. I keep a couple of Mora’s up north for splitting kindling, sharpening carpenter’s pencils, etc.
 
I still like a Swiss army knife for food prep as I think it cleans up easier. There is a single bladed sentinel if you still want that normal sort of knife. But I use the picnicker for the extra tools.

All of them will whittle a piece of wood.

The less that happens in a knife the better for food prep in my opinion. Hence people say fixed blade.

So less tools is generally better. No pocket clip is better and no grip is better for that specific circumstance.

Also you don't want a knife that is prone to rust in this case.

www.eliteoutdoorgear.com.au

Victorinox Sentinel Black Swiss Army Knife | Elite Outdoor Gear

www.eliteoutdoorgear.com.au www.eliteoutdoorgear.com.au
 
Not a fan of food and folders.
Stuff gets stuck in the works and try as you might, there's always seems to be some bit of food that rots and turns nasty.

The reverse is also true.
Pulling a blade out of my pocket, and finding a bunch of pocket debris in the works, doesn't do much for the old appetite.


Having said that - the best food knives will be "slicers" and the best all-around knives (EDC) will have a more robust geometry.
 
Spyderco Kapara? The 20CV version was a DLT exclusive and may be found on the secondary market. It’s easy to get one in S30V and that’s very stainless but I can understand your preference for the 20CV.
 
I have an some chippy experiences with S90V and 20CV, and once you get a chip in those they take forever to sharpen out.

Like some of the fellas stated above, I'd go with something with a bit more toughness. You mentioned food work, so maybe stainless too? I've food prepped with D2, M4 before...no big deal just clean it as soon as able if you dont like patina...never had it rust on me yet.

2021 is a good time to buy knives, you can pretty much get knives that hold an edge, are mostly stainless, AND tough! Try some of the following:

LC200N - such as the Spydiechef or Carribean, I prefer the carribean because the handle is grippier and doesnt show scratches
S35VN/S45VN - new spyderco PM2 AND PM3 has this, judging from my experience with the mule, it's a great steel and looots of knife choices for this.
CRUWEAR - if not for it's usually high price tag, this would be my favorite steel. Try the new Adamas, KnifeCenter KnifeCenter actually just released a PM3 in CRUWEAR..awesome steel and surprisingly stainless
3V - not alot of folders have this, since edge retention isnt that high compared to the likes of 20CV, but you'll never chip this steel...its supertough
Elmax - ahhh, love Elmax...tough, holds an edge, wont rust away. Once again, not alot of folders come to mind other than micro techs
CPM154/154CM - still a great steel, but falling into the budget category nowadays. Lots of folders in this
NitroV - Civivi started putting out tons of folder in this, very stainless and tough, with decent edge retention (step up from budget)

Just get CRUWEAR and call it a day. Or, research into Vanax and get a quietcarry. If price isnt an issue, I'd definitely get a Seb or Hind.

I think I've blabbed enough. TLDR, 20CV is cool, but I'd prefer S35VN/S45VN since you're not cutting cardboard all day and need a little toughness.
 
Dadpool said:
I am only familiar with the wood-shaving kind, sorry. If chipping is like chopping, I don't know how much help an ultralight blade will be.
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Not chopping, more the kind you would have with a badly sharpened knife or with an hatchet. Not cut, but more detached from the log.
 
John Phillips said:
Lots of great options out there but whether or not you have a budget matters. Food prep combined with feather sticking is an interesting combination. Have you considered LC200N, 154CM, CPM 3V, etc? I don’t think you can go wrong with Spyderco, maybe a PM2, Manix or Shaman, tons of options really within the Spyderco brand. I know you didn’t mention S35VN but you may want to look into Chris Reeve knives, Large Sebenza or Large Inkosi Tanto( either of these will last you a lifetime more than likely and will hold up to heavier use). What’s your budget?
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I already looked at the CRK, but I tough they would be in the... "ultra high-end"? The kind of price that increase significantly for minor upgrade?

Just an impression though, I don't know much about folder
 
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