Recommendation? First folder EDC

WeekSecret said:
You know, I was about to say "nice try but I'm sold Leatherman" but after looking at the larger SAK, I found the almost perfect complement to my leatherman project.

My most used tool right now is the blade and the scissor, leatherman making "badly" the later. I though victorinox didn't make big scissor but I was wrong.

I will go with the rangergrip 71 gardener. I didn't plan on a multitool, but it's just too spot on my need to pass.

I just have no idea how the "Inox" stainless from victorinox compare to the 420 stainless from leatherman. As long as it's not worst, it will be fine for me.
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It's softer or something. Which doesn't make it worse. Just makes it different. And I can't get it to rust. So I can wash my knife shake it off and throw it in my pocket.

But yeah SAKs are good whittling knives in my opinion.
 
Okay so I make a couple research and I come back to the original idea.

If I recap, I should go spyderco, but if I want something something for life then CRK is the way to go. I'm very afraid to "open the pit" so I will settle for the spyderco.

I currently find the Amalgam to be very neat, so much in fact that I'm looking for a fixed blade just like that, but just 3/4" longer.

Now there's two thing;

First is it just me or the compression lock is a bit awkard to use? I'm used to one under the blade where you hold it edge-up, unlock it with your thumb, lift the blade just to pass the lock, remove the finger in the way and then close it. Easy and safe. The compression lock is not intuitive to me.

The second thing, please read until the end, if I where to carve a wooden wedge, baton an unlocked folder into a say 2-2'5" log until it's completely lodged in the wood and then baton the wedge to finish the job, I sould be able to split "any" log no? Ain't gonna do it for fun, but I read somewhere it's ain't really bad for a blade to do so, what do you think?
 
WeekSecret said:
Okay so I make a couple research and I come back to the original idea.

If I recap, I should go spyderco, but if I want something something for life then CRK is the way to go. I'm very afraid to "open the pit" so I will settle for the spyderco.

I currently find the Amalgam to be very neat, so much in fact that I'm looking for a fixed blade just like that, but just 3/4" longer.

Now there's two thing;

First is it just me or the compression lock is a bit awkard to use? I'm used to one under the blade where you hold it edge-up, unlock it with your thumb, lift the blade just to pass the lock, remove the finger in the way and then close it. Easy and safe. The compression lock is not intuitive to me.

The second thing, please read until the end, if I where to carve a wooden wedge, baton an unlocked folder into a say 2-2'5" log until it's completely lodged in the wood and then baton the wedge to finish the job, I sould be able to split "any" log no? Ain't gonna do it for fun, but I read somewhere it's ain't really bad for a blade to do so, what do you think?
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I'm not 100% sure that a CRK is good "for life" and a Spyderco isn't. All folding knives have moving parts. All components are subject to damage or wear. All blades will eventually need to be sharpened. If you imagine two scenarios with just one knife for the rest of your life, one with a Spyderco and one with a CRK, will either be in all that different of shape on your dying day?

Personally, the compression lock is okay. It is a lot like a liner lock, just in a different place. Some people pinch it and let the blade drop. Some people thumb it and close the knife. You'll get used to it in a hurry if you carry it every day.

On the "second thing"... Seriously, just use a fixed blade. There are jobs where folders are just not the right tool for the job.
 
CRK is good (better) for life when you factor in the warranty and periodical spa treatments. Especially the availability of blade replacement.

Although I think a GB2 can last a lifetime if used with care.
 
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Chronovore said:
I'm not 100% sure that a CRK is good "for life" and a Spyderco isn't. All folding knives have moving parts. All components are subject to damage or wear. All blades will eventually need to be sharpened. If you imagine two scenarios with just one knife for the rest of your life, one with a Spyderco and one with a CRK, will either be in all that different of shape on your dying day?
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Nothing is eternal I know that. People on this tread told me they where really more durable. Just like you did
Chronovore said:
Personally, the compression lock is okay. It is a lot like a liner lock, just in a different place. Some people pinch it and let the blade drop. Some people thumb it and close the knife. You'll get used to it in a hurry if you carry it every day.
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That's kinda what I tough, but I guess you're right. If I use it I will find a way.
Chronovore said:
On the "second thing"... Seriously, just use a fixed blade. There are jobs where folders are just not the right tool for the job.
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I kinda hinted I was well aware of that when I said "I would not do it for fun". I was thinking about a case where my fixed blade would be lost or broken.

I don't intend to do it regulary. I simply think it's good to know how to abuse thing when in absolute necessity. Like how to drift a car or how to add a pipe to a wrench.
 
I don't think most folding knives are made to baton. Depending on the knife you could probably do it a few times. But I would imagine you would probably loosen the pivot screws and tolerances. If I had to, I would do my best to only hit the blade not the handle.

In my opinion though battening is vastly overrated! If you need dry wood you can usually find some of you look around. And you can always just carve the stick down to your size you need if you can't find anything. Then you don't risk your knife that way. Also depending on the natural make up of the area, I have used Chert rocks or hard wood wedges to baton or split things if I wanted it split.

If you want a tough knife, My recommendation goes to the Spyderco Manix 2 XL. Its built like a tank! But its only made in S30V.

Also if you want a tough knife, I would make having 3 screws on the pocket clip mandatory. That is the way knives are most commonly lost in my experience is through the clips falling off and then the knife dropping out of your pocket.
 
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
I don't think most folding knives are made to baton. Depending on the knife you could probably do it a few times. But I would imagine you would probably loosen the pivot screws and tolerances. If I had to, I would do my best to only hit the blade not the handle.

In my opinion though battening is vastly overrated! If you need dry wood you can usually find some of you look around. And you can always just carve the stick down to your size you need if you can't find anything. Then you don't risk your knife that way. Also depending on the natural make up of the area, I have used Chert rocks or hard wood wedges to baton or split things if I wanted it split.

If you want a tough knife, My recommendation goes to the Spyderco Manix 2 XL. Its built like a tank! But its only made in S30V.

Also if you want a tough knife, I would make having 3 screws on the pocket clip mandatory. That is the way knives are most commonly lost in my experience is through the clips falling off and then the knife dropping out of your pocket.
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That's good advice there. I knew I was going to get "beaten on" for suggesting such a thing but that the kind of suggestion I was hopping for.

Now, do you use the hard wood wedge straight on the start? I guess you take green wood to make it? Do you use paracord too?

Now, I know I miss knowledge in folder, but it they were both fixed blade, I would say the amalgam is stronger than the manix 2 xl. About the same everything, but thicker and a more blunt profile. Am I missing something there? Is it the ball bearing lock that make a difference?
 
Its a fairly frequently asked question honestly. I think it stems from the idea that if a knife can't baton its no good. And I think the idea of needing to baton tons of things is over rated in my experience so far.

I have only used hard wood wedges on old dry wood that already had some cracking and I just followed the crack. I have used rocks on green wood though. With a good wedge I bet it would work fine on softer woods but I will have to give that a test sometime. I have mostly used dead wood for the wedge, but green wood would work fine I think. Most wedges are disposable in my opinion, so after awhile you may need to make a new one. I think the issue is, in your scenario with your pocket knife being your only blade you would have a really hard time cutting a green hard wood chunk out. (or a dry one for that matter out of a larger fallen stick) I do use paracord for many tasks. I have never used it to split something or to strengthen the wedge if that's what you are asking.

I have found very few needs to split wood though so far in bushcraft tasks.:) Usually the only thing I split wood for anymore is if I want to make a very large fire bow hearth. Most other things I just carve down to what I want. Are you usually just splitting dead wood to get something dry?

I would bet the amalgam would break at or bend at the spyder hole first between the 2 in batoning. But that's hard to say with out seeing them both in person. I recommended the Manix 2 XL because I have experience with it. I don't think there is anything wrong with the amalgam though, it looks like a good knife too and I like that the blade shape better than the manix personally. There are other great knives out there to. I am not sure which lock is stronger, Maybe someone else has an answer there. Its looks like a really nice knife, and I think there is almost always a way to achieve your aims with out needing to baton the blade.😉 My encouragement would be to get a good solid pocket knife, but don't make batoning the only criteria to go by between the 2. :)
 
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
Its a fairly frequently asked question honestly. I think it stems from the idea that if a knife can't baton its no good. And I think the idea of needing to baton tons of things is over rated in my experience so far.
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I don't think it's over rated, but I don't think it should be as hardcore as some tries. I find it safer than an hatchet for 1-1,5" wood when making starter wood, but anything bigger than that is over rated. Especially with your advice.
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
I have only used hard wood wedges on old dry wood that already had some cracking and I just followed the crack. I have used rocks on green wood though. With a good wedge I bet it would work fine on softer woods but I will have to give that a test sometime. I have mostly used dead wood for the wedge, but green wood would work fine I think. Most wedges are disposable in my opinion, so after awhile you may need to make a new one. I think the issue is, in your scenario with your pocket knife being your only blade you would have a really hard time cutting a green hard wood chunk out. (or a dry one for that matter out of a larger fallen stick) I do use paracord for many tasks. I have never used it to split something or to strengthen the wedge if that's what you are asking.
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I read some people did that but I never made or even used a wood wedge before. I sure will try that the next time I go in the wood. Rock for hard and wood for easy. I know some people use paracord to prevent the wedge from splitting, but I guess if you go with your head, there's no need for it.
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
I have found very few needs to split wood though so far in bushcraft tasks.:) Usually the only thing I split wood for anymore is if I want to make a very large fire bow hearth. Most other things I just carve down to what I want. Are you usually just splitting dead wood to get something dry?
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Not to get something dry but just to get pass the bark.
Black Oak Bladeworks said:
I would bet the amalgam would break at or bend at the spyder hole first between the 2 in batoning. But that's hard to say with out seeing them both in person. I recommended the Manix 2 XL because I have experience with it. I don't think there is anything wrong with the amalgam though, it looks like a good knife too and I like that the blade shape better than the manix personally. There are other great knives out there to. I am not sure which lock is stronger, Maybe someone else has an answer there. Its looks like a really nice knife, and I think there is almost always a way to achieve your aims with out needing to baton the blade.😉 My encouragement would be to get a good solid pocket knife, but don't make batoning the only criteria to go by between the 2. :)
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I think I'll go with it then. It fit my need perfectly and since I don't plan to baton with it, it will handle anything I trow at it. I have a hard time abusing any 250+$ tool anyway.
 
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WeekSecret said:
I don't think it's over rated, but I don't think it should be as hardcore as some tries. I find it safer than an hatchet for 1-1,5" wood when making starter wood, but anything bigger than that is over rated. Especially with your advice.

I read some people did that but I never made or even used a wood wedge before. I sure will try that the next time I go in the wood. Rock for hard and wood for easy. I know some people use paracord to prevent the wedge from splitting, but I guess if you go with your head, there's no need for it.

Not to get something dry but just to get pass the bark.

I think I'll go with it then. It fit my need perfectly and since I don't plan to baton with it, it will handle anything I trow at it. I have a hard time abusing any 250+$ tool anyway.
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Also to be clear, I am not opposed to batoning! If its a fixed blade go for it. And I also agree if you need to split something small it is safer than a hatchet most of the time.

That is good choice! My Manix 2 Xl does baton short 2x6s and 2x4s fine a few times... It will loosen the pivot screws though.;) I see now reason the Amalgum wouldn't do it to if you had to.:cool: But in the context of it being my only knife, I would never do it unless my life somehow depended on it which I dont see how it would. I would do my very best to find other ways to accomplish something because they are not built to baton and I would not want to risk my only tool. If you only had a pocket knife, The easiest way is to just carve bark off. If its dead you can also take the stick and beat it off or use a rock to do the trick sometimes too. Or just burn it with the bark on. :)

Enjoy your new blade! That looks like a great choice!
 
Your initial instinct was good looking at getting the bugout. I’d suggest sticking with the basic s30v as their 20cv is hardly any better since their heat treating is softer than it should be.

As far as zero tolerance, great knives but their heat treat on their 20cv is soft as well, and my civivi in 9cr18mov (budget steel) holds and edge longer which is surprising!

Bottom line is we’re in the golden age of folding knives, so it’s kind of hard to make a bad decision.

Welcome and I hope your here to stay :)
 
Consider a mini Presidio ii.
I’m planning one in the longer term as a slightly more robust, but similarly sized brother for my Bugout.
 
Zookie said:
Your initial instinct was good looking at getting the bugout. I’d suggest sticking with the basic s30v as their 20cv is hardly any better since their heat treating is softer than it should be.

As far as zero tolerance, great knives but their heat treat on their 20cv is soft as well, and my civivi in 9cr18mov (budget steel) holds and edge longer which is surprising!

Bottom line is we’re in the golden age of folding knives, so it’s kind of hard to make a bad decision.

Welcome and I hope your here to stay :)
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Thinking about it overall, I became confused. If "all" folder ain't made for beating and are able to do featherstick, is there any real advange to have a better knife beside edge retention? I mean, if I can do all I need with the blade from a surge, I do I benefit from a benchmade or spyderco?
 
WeekSecret said:
Thinking about it overall, I became confused. If "all" folder ain't made for beating and are able to do featherstick, is there any real advange to have a better knife beside edge retention? I mean, if I can do all I need with the blade from a surge, I do I benefit from a benchmade or spyderco?
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It depends. If you don't use your knives hard all the time, there is no financial need to spend that much on it. I used to use $30-40 Kershaws for work, and they would last about 6-8 months and worked fine. They had a fantastic warranty to, but I usually felt I got my moneys worth. My Spyderco is going on 2-3 years now. So for me it was worth it or at least a wash so far. I figure if its a wash for me I would rather carry the Spyderco though and I prefer USA made blades just because I can. The Kershaw Blur was a good budget knife, used to be made in the USA and had a D2 or sandvic blade options. The Ontario Rat is made in taiwan I think, its very budget friendlyand is agreat hard use folder form what I have heard. It runs around 40$ I think.

The biggest advantage I see with price is mostly lots of little stuff and much better quality control. (with Spyderco any way.) Edge retention is slightly better but not a huge difference in my experience so far. I find most advantages I gain from it holding an edge I just loose in it taking longer to resharpen the next time. The lock is nicer, the blade centers and opens perfectly and very smoothly. The clip is built thicker with better retention and I liked the style of my Manix and how it fits my hand better than little knives.:)
 
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