First knife build need help

L

LeaderofthePack

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
101
Getting ready for the summers outdoor adventures and after going through all of my knifes realized I don't have a solid go to knife. Looking to make something small with about a 7 inch blade length. My question is what's a good steel for a beginner looking at doing the stock removal method. I plan on having it professionally heat treated unless there's a fool proof steel that a newbie can't mess up. Thank you in advance.
 
If you won't be heat treating it yourself then there isn't much to screw up after ht, unless you overheat it during final grinding which can happen with any steel.
That said, good. Beginner steels for farmed out ht include 1084, 1095, 440c, 52100, 154cm just to name a few.

Chris
 
Since its being heat treated professionally 1095, 1084 for carbon, or 154cm for stainless. 1/8 stock
 
Kinda figured 1084 would be my best bet and 1/8 stock would be able to be battoned without breaking? Only reason I ask is I've broken a few knives that weren't up to the challenge over the years
 
1/8" will be just fine. Also, how about a slightly smaller knife for a first go? It's not quite as easy as it looks. Maybe a 3" blade? It would be much,much easier.
 
If you're planning on using files a 7" blade is going to be taxing for a first time knife. The last knife I did with just files had a blade just over 5" and 1.25" wide. I did a full flat grind and used 3/16" stock. I think I spent around 3hrs per side just filing the bevels.
 
It's going to make a big difference in how you are going to be removing stock. Will you be using files or an intro belt grinder like the Craftsman 2x42?

I'd say get some Aldo 1084 or 1095.. get a piece in .15625 (5/32) and a piece in .125 (1/8). I think you'll like the 4mm better than the 1/8 as a durable field knife. For the minimal cost and the opportunity to make a second knife if you bugger up the first one since you are already paying shipping.

I did my first knife in 1/8 with files then moved to .1875 (3/16) for my second. Using files it took quite a bit of time, but gave me room for error. It forced me to slow down and work on my file technique and gain some muscle memory.

So I say get a few pieces in different thicknesses (width of choice) as I'm sure once you do one, you'll want to make more.

Also, have a professional do your heat treat. Peters is a great company.

Best of luck
 
The amount of time really isn't an issue for me. I'll be working on it on my days off so it shouldn't be to bad. Also I find filing steel by hand slight therapeutic lol just throw on some music and start grinding away. Thank you all for the advice and I'll definitely check out that heat treat place and order a spare piece of steel. If I manage to not screw up both I'll probably just give my least favorite to one of the people going. On a side note any preferences on profile for the blade I was thinking keeping it simple like a small straight tanto minus the taper.
 
Last edited:
From what I've gathered on how the edge should be before heat treat us roughly butter knife sharp where I want it? Honed down but no final edge.
 
Well it's going to be a minute on Aldo and after looking at their sizes another question came to mind. Is it possible and has any one made a machete/ axe blade? I know I'd have to step up the thickness to probably 1/4 and get a belt sander but I'm thinking more like the japanese hatchets in design. Just a thought
 
Make a simple knife first. Focus on fit and finish and making a simple, high quality knife. Seriously. I don't think you quite understand how much steel is in a 1/4" thick bar.
 
It was just a thought. And yeah the first two utility camp knives will be done before I try anything else. Was just curious if it was possible. Always wants a beast of a knife since I was young just one of those bucket list items I guess.
 
my 2c:
If you outsource the HT might as well go for stainless
I made my first from RLW34 wich is 154CM all by hand. Very do-able
 
Only other question I can think of for now until I get the steel and finish is there a difference in the ability to bring different steels to a mirror polish?
 
Mostly patience, but steelkind makes a difference. 154CM takes a decent mirror polish by hand
Nick wheeler has a WIP on hand finishing a blade. Look it up, it's full of good info
 
Starting to sound like 154 cm us my best bet. I'm a little OCD with my blades so anything works for me but if I make them as gifts I can't say the same for other peoples use. Any recommendation on how wide it should be and after looking at Aldo's website I noticed there were two different 154cm steels but both seemed about the same price just seemed like one was a little less unrefined than the other. Thank you all so much once again for being patient with me and answering all my newbie questions. Can't wait till they get it in stock so I can begin grinding away.
 
Time for another newbie question. I've noticed a lot of people talking about blade geometry and was curious if that was referring to the over all shape if the blade or the grind angle. And what the advantages and dis advantages would be to a narrow grind versus a wider grind and a blade being angled down, straight, and up? Thank you all again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top