First knife design/plan

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Dec 22, 2013
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Besides the heat treatment (which I have another thread going with questions about it), I pretty much have my plan figured out for my first knife.

- 1/8" 1084 steel so I can heat treat it myself.
- I'll use the rhynowet redline sandpaper to take the blade up to 800 grit.
- Stabilized wood, corby bolts, and g/flex epoxy for the handle.
- Will rough cut with an angle grinder, then hack saw, then just filing. I don't have a belt sander, so I'll be hand grinding everything.

Here is my design on 1/4" graph paper. It's a little much for a first knife, but I'm confident I can make this knife well because I'm not new to making things in general.

eb783aef-b714-4a83-91b7-5731eb9bdd64_zps4a59ba5a.jpg


I'll also be documenting my build as I work on it, and hopefully I won't take month breaks in between steps like I usually do when I make something lol.

Let me know what you guys think.
 
Looks like a nice design. The only thing I would change is the sweep of the blade from the tip to make it more of a continous curve.
 
Should I have the front of the curve be more bulgey (to make it rounder) or move the back of the curve farther back to make the whole curve shallower?
 
I would add a little sharpening choil before you heat treat. I didn't add one till afterwards and was kicking myself at how hard it was to remove a very small bit of material.
 
Tryppyr's suggestions mirror mine. It will be a nice knife with some minor tweaks.
 
I can easily make the handle less bulgey and the edge rounder (or make the sweep/curve transition of the edge longer), but how should I go about making the spine less straight?
 
You could make the riccaso(sp?) area a just a little bit wider on the spine and the follow a very shallow curve from tip to butt...
 
I would go 1/4" higher at the front of the handle. The line from tip to centre if the but will cross with the index finger then, making the knife transfer power well.
 
I like it, reminds me a bit of my favorite fixed blade design (WWII GI model Ka-Bar) just a bit though, i'm sure it will come out beautifully. I'll be standing by to see the results.
 
I'd also like to add that your first handle design seemed much better and ergonomic. The blade did have a bit of an extreme angle, making it seem almost like a tanto. I'd suggest....

Add a slight thumb ramp or something of the sort on the spine of the blade, keep your first blade design with the straight edge but just make it sweep up more evenly so it's not tanto-esque. AND KEEP YOUR ORIGINAL HANDLE DESIGN.

just suggestions. All in all, i'd like to see you make it the way you want it made. (it is YOUR first knife afterall)
 
You could make the riccaso(sp?) area a just a little bit wider on the spine and the follow a very shallow curve from tip to butt...

I'm honestly not quite sure what you mean by that (the sp part).

How wide is your steel?

I'm going to get 1.5" (haven't gotten it yet) in a few days, or at least as soon as I can drive up to Aldo. I could get a larger size if I need to, but I don't think I'll be going over 1.5".

I would go 1/4" higher at the front of the handle. The line from tip to centre if the but will cross with the index finger then, making the knife transfer power well.

You mean like what John did on my design? I dunno, it just doesn't seem right to me. I can make a drawing with that handle curve incorporated later though just to see what it would look like.

I'd also like to add that your first handle design seemed much better and ergonomic. The blade did have a bit of an extreme angle, making it seem almost like a tanto. I'd suggest....

Add a slight thumb ramp or something of the sort on the spine of the blade, keep your first blade design with the straight edge but just make it sweep up more evenly so it's not tanto-esque. AND KEEP YOUR ORIGINAL HANDLE DESIGN.

just suggestions. All in all, i'd like to see you make it the way you want it made. (it is YOUR first knife afterall)

I'm going to be keeping the handle pretty much the way it was in my pics. I can lessen the bump if that will make it more ergonomic, but I won't get rid of it completely. I'll see what I can do about a thumb ramp.

Trust me, this knife will be MINE lol. I'll be making it completely by myself, even going so far as to heat treat it myself. A little input from more experienced people on my design to make my knife design better so I'll be happier with it at the end is fine with me.
 
Here is what I mean.
13895435818_d0529018f5_z.jpg
[/url]bf knife ammended by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

Notice where your index finger ends up related to the green center line. This gives you a very efficient knife. You can contour the palm swell anyway you like, but that index finger position is quite important! Stacy showed me this almost a year ago, and people rave about how great my knives feel in hand and cut since using this design. Thanx Stacy!!!

Using your straighter original design, this is what it would look like:

14078941781_513766ecca_z.jpg
[/url]scan0002_zps95de2e93 ammended by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

I would personally make the top knife, but would use 1/8" less swell in the belly of the blade for edc, and use it as is as a skinner.

Here's the original for comparison:

scan0002_zps95de2e93.jpg


Notice the EDC and skinners in this this crappy pic:

11390464725_745967dc1a_z.jpg
[/url]100_2281 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

The owners love the feel of these knives.
 
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I'm going to get 1.5" (haven't gotten it yet) in a few days, or at least as soon as I can drive up to Aldo. I could get a larger size if I need to, but I don't think I'll be going over 1.5".

I only asked because when I was tweaking your design I didn't want to draw something outside of the materials you had bought, to get any sort of real drop in the handle area you would need 2" material

Your drawing feels more like a tactical/fighter which is a design worthy of your pursuit ;0)
 
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