First knife design/plan

To be honest, I liked the very first drawing of the knife you posted. The only thing I would have done with it is made the ricasso straight at the bottom, parallel to the spine. I'd have gotten rid of that nubby integral guard. Your original handle looked comfortable.

I do like the extended sharpening choil. Cut the nubby behind it off and make it square though.
 
I think I like the thinned down handle actually. Bringing it down to the centerline is a bit much, but I think the original handle design was probably too wide. I also like the nubby thing there. I had a drawing with it not there, and decided it looked better with it there.

Do you guys think I should go for the swedge? I think I have the capability, but I'm torn as to whether it would improve the design or not.
 
One thing to consider... you like the way the nubby thing looks, but have you considered how it will affect the usefulness of the knife? I dislike nubby things because they make knives harder to use thoroughly and effectively. To heck with what it looks like. If it doesn't work right its only function will be to decorate someone's drawer.
 
One thing that's important (if your making the knife for yourself), is to not give up what you like for what others think would work better, unless of course their ideas are better for practical purposes.
 
knifecollector73 said:
One thing that's important (if your making the knife for yourself), is to not give up what you like for what others think would work better, unless of course their ideas are better for practical purposes.
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On the other hand tryppyr has made a lot of knives and used them. He knows what works. I am much newer at this than tryppyr, but I too have worked at refining my designs. The OP asked for feedback, and was given information he hadn't considered. We grew up in a time when we got marks in school, everyone didn't get a ribbon in track and field, bullied kids were taught to stand up for themselves, and we weren't told everything we did was great. We take our time here to share what we have learned and pass it on. Sometimes I wonder why?
 
Masterjuggler said:
I think I like the thinned down handle actually. Bringing it down to the centerline is a bit much, but I think the original handle design was probably too wide. I also like the nubby thing there. I had a drawing with it not there, and decided it looked better with it there.

Do you guys think I should go for the swedge? I think I have the capability, but I'm torn as to whether it would improve the design or not.
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Go for the swedge! Take your time. It's a bit harder than the primary bevels, but you did a good job on those.
 
Willie71 said:
On the other hand tryppyr has made a lot of knives and used them. He knows what works. I am much newer at this than tryppyr, but I too have worked at refining my designs. The OP asked for feedback, and was given information he hadn't considered. We grew up in a time when we got marks in school, everyone didn't get a ribbon in track and field, bullied kids were taught to stand up for themselves, and we weren't told everything we did was great. We take our time here to share what we have learned and pass it on. Sometimes I wonder why?
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I wasn't saying shut out all advice. It is very good to listen to those with experience.

"unless of course their ideas are better for practical purposes"
 
Looks like you're coming along just fine. If you like the nub, leave it. You can always grind it off later if you feel it affects the knife negatively.

Looking forward to seeing more progress.
 
Listen guys, I am totally not going to dismiss anyone's ideas here, and I have no intention of disrespecting anyone who either makes knives for a living or professionally makes them as a hobby. I understand that you guys know more than I do on this subject, and that is exactly why I keep coming back for opinions and advice. I'm not entirely sure if any of the above posts were directed at me, but even if they weren't, that is what I believe.

I do not want any argument to start in this thread. I started this strictly for advice and to document my progress.

With that out of the way, Tryppr, I agree with you up to a point. I do go for functionality first, but in this case, since it is my first knife, I am also trying to make it look good. Chances are I will make new, better knives that will be used instead of this, and this one will go up on my wall as my first knife.

Why would the nubby guard take away from the usefulness of the knife? My thinking was it would stop something from jamming my hand if I was cutting into something and slipped.

I guess I'll go for the swedge then. Is my swerve design feasible or should I make it more like a traditional swedge, with a choil at the back of the swedge, like an unsharpened false edge?
 
I would be super careful with that swedge, looks like you're getting mighty thin out there on the tip, you can get a good effect making the swedge a little less deep than what you have drawn

The nubby thing on the bottom is fine, the only way it would affect the performance of the knife is if you were trying to use it as a chef's slicer, clearly the style you have chosen is a hunter/fighter, and if your hands are covered with blood that nub might be an asset
 
Is there really anything you can do if you have ground your tip too thin? I may have done that very thing on one of my knives.
 
send it off for heat treat and then shorten it up a little when you get it back

I have seen this saying repeated numerous ways, There are plenty of ten inch knives out there that are only 9 inches long ;0)
 
I keep hearing people say "send it off for heat treat" but i'm nit actually sure quite what that is. Is there a company that will simply heat treat your knives for you?
 
knifecollector73 said:
Is there really anything you can do if you have ground your tip too thin? I may have done that very thing on one of my knives.
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Shorten the tip 1/8" at first, then another 1/8" until you are where you want to be.

Masterjuggler: I was not directing any comments toward you. :) I do think if you made two knives identical, but one with the index at the centerline for comparison you will feel the difference in hand. That's what I did, and really liked it. It comes down to the physics of how the energy is transferred from your hand through the knife to the cutting edge. Production knives are made to look cool for sales. handmade customs are for users who want the best tool possible (not talking about the show pieces here.) You have to make what makes sense to you though, which is why I didn't comment on it further previously. The curve at the spine, the shape of the belly, and the drop of the point all affect the centerline and work together :). After you make a few, you will probably graduate that direction as you refine your process. Stacy pointed it out in a thread a while back and it has been something I comment on repeatedly when people post designs. The hunters point out the knives made this way are effortless to use, like an extension of their hand. Its the subtleties that separate a good knife from a great knife.
 
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@knifecollector- there are lots of threads that list various companies for heat treat. Google something like "heat treat companies site:bladeforums.com" or something.

@Willie- I think I made the spine a little too straight then. On my next knife I'll curve the spine/drop the point more so the center line is lower, to get a thicker handle. As it is right now, the handle feels too thin at the center line.

@John- when you say "less deep" for the swedge, you mean I should make the curve shallower?

On the topic of the swedge, should I make it a taper starting at the back of the swedge, tapering down to the tip, to make the grind line a curve like in my drawing? I'll take a pic later to show you guys what I mean, because there is no good way to word that.
 
Follow the curve on the swedge. It won't work out if you try to make it straight. Regarding the handle, don't just try to hold it in hand. Hold it like you are cutting something. Remember the scales add volume in your hand as well.

On the other hand, Loveless knives don't follow this design and they are well liked. There isn't only one way to do things. Most loveless blades are not wider than 1" though. That limits the options.
 
I would make Willie71's modification of your straighter original design first and his modification second then see which one you like best. Good luck.

Tim
 
The tip of my knife is actually not too thin. In fact. I left a little bit too much so nothing happens to it during heat treat, and I'll file it down a little bit post-HT. Assuming we are talking about thickness of the steel here.

This question should make what I was saying before (about he swedge taper) more clear. When I grind the swedge to fit the curve, and taper it toward the tip, will the grind be flat? Maybe I'm missing something, but I just can't see how I would get a flat grind when following that curve. Maybe if I made the curve much more continuous, so it would taper evenly. I found explanations for making swedges, but they are all for cut swedges, not a drawn swedge like I'm doing (yup, just looked up those terms, I'm proud lol).

@tim- What modification are you talking about?
 
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Use a half round file and slowly remove material. If you try to make it a flat swedge, like a raised clip, it will throw off the flow of the knife. You don't have to make it sharp, but filing some material there will lighten the tip, and add to the flow visually. It will be time consuming to make it even, and I have to admit I have a few testers out there with raised clips that are a little "off." Its a great learning experience, and this knife design calls for it. :) :thumbup:

Looking at the tip from the front, it will look like a diamond. Another option is look at the tanto grind tip, it widens slightly then narrows again at the tip. I would start filing at 45deg, and adjust as needed. The angle will probably compound.
 
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