First knife designs using 1084 (Slow but lots of pics)

M

mjderstine

Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Messages
149
Hey fellow (i hope to be a fellow) knife makers.

well i am just starting getting into this and have read and watched a ton. it doesnt seem too hard, but i just wanted to post a couple ideas of mine. i am not a slouch when it comes to working things by hand. i have been brazing and soldering my hole life, and building custom remote control scale trucks for years. so most metal work is easy to me when it comes to a grinder, file, and hacksaw. just havent had much experience heat treating and such.

I am planning to make a knife file out of an old file i found in my poppop's tool box. it says "gold Medal USA" stamped into the handle. and i am not sure of what type of metal it is. but it will at least give me a solid practice knife for my first go around. its around 12" useable surface area. and about 1 3/16" in width. it should make a really good base. i have been drawing some designs tonight. but wanted some opinions on my designs.

so actually gonna be using some 1084 now.

let me know what you guys think on them. personally i like #1 the most. but am open to you opinions. you can also notice the change from finger grooves from one pic to the next. let me know what you think. and just cuz i'm new to this forum, please dont think i am a newbie. been around the interwebs for a long time and just looking for some good ole good guy advice here.



 
Last edited:
#3....but you will be FAR better off buying a piece of 1084. That file can be used to file the knife to shape.

#1 and #2 are not good shapes.

I would suggest you round off the butt of #3, as there is no good reason to have the sharp corners. They won't be hand friendly.

How did you plan on doing the HT?
 
bladsmth said:
#3....but you will be FAR better off buying a piece of 1084. That file can be used to file the knife to shape.

#1 and #2 are not good shapes.

I would suggest you round off the butt of #3, as there is no good reason to have the sharp corners. They won't be hand friendly.

How did you plan on doing the HT?
Click to expand...


thanks for the pointers.

ok, so blade three would is the best design. the corners can easily be rounded on the pommel as well.

i think the file is kinda dull anyway. i tried to file with it and it just scratched, so it probably wouldnt have made a good knife anyway. I have been looking online for some 1084, and have found som 1095. seems like they are basically the same minus a few small additives.

i plan to HT via a homemade blast furnace via some charcoal, and forced air. if that is too difficult i may look for a local shop that does heat treating and ask them what they would charge. Or i could even contact some guys on here and see if they wouldnt mind throwing my raw blade in with there stuff.
 
I think knife #1 will look good, too, if you turn the handle down into a curve like knife 3. Maybe pull the edge down near the ricasso, or make it a recurve so it lines up visually with the handle once it's curved.
 
Schleifstein said:
I think knife #1 will look good, too, if you turn the handle down into a curve like knife 3. Maybe pull the edge down near the ricasso, or make it a recurve so it lines up visually with the handle once it's curved.
Click to expand...

thanks man. i was thinking the same thing. i could get rid of that unsightly hard corner, and just fillet the blade edge to the ricasso. i think with that being the case #1 would have the strength of #3, but just have a slightly better drop point. i just kinda dig the leaf/spear tip shape of #1

Hengelo_77 said:
nr. 3 as well.
Personaly I like file knives to have a hidden tang
Click to expand...

turns out i am gonna go with some steel stock.

found some 1095 online. but havent been able to find any 1084. seems to be out of stock almost everywhere. also found some 1075... but not sure what the difference is between 75 and 95.
link to the metals
http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/288.htm
 
I just ordered some 1084 from Aldo ( New Jersey Steel Baron ). I recommend it over 1095, given your heat treating equipment....it is more forgiving than 1095
 
i already have some one order from him! thanks guys.

so just assuming here, but am i right in thinking that i dont need to anneal this stuff before i work it right?

cant wait to go at this stuff with my hacksaw and files. i have a bench grinder, but have read that using a grinder can heat the metal too quickly, and those blue heat spots are not so bueno.
 
If you ordered from Aldo, there's no need to anneal. Just get to work on it. You can't beat the amount of steel for the price.
 
Hesparus said:
Bench grinders are not a good option for making knives. If you want a suitable grinder, get a belt grinder in the range of 1x36 to 2x72 (see: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1089521-What-is-a-good-belt-grinder)

- Chris
Click to expand...

thanks man. thats what i thought. ill take a look on craigslist to see what i can find.

i know it would take longer, but what about filing by hand?

Sgt John said:
If you ordered from Aldo, there's no need to anneal. Just get to work on it. You can't beat the amount of steel for the price.
Click to expand...

i know man. i can make all three of my designs of just change them a lot and make some smaller ones too.
 
That 1" delta will work (I used to use one just like it) but it will be very slow since those are insanely under-powered. It will be faster than filing. The other ones are no good — they are designed for wood not metal. Most people will tell you that the minimum is 1hp or 1.5hp (I'm using a 1hp grizzly right now and it's got plenty of power) but you can do less in a pinch. That delta is 1/3hp and you will know it. Doing the whole thing by hand is a perfectly viable option and most people do their first few blades that way. But unless you're really strapped for cash, that delta is probably worth the $40.

- Chris

ETA: There's no reason to try to make an grinder like the delta variable speed. It doesn't go very fast in the first place, and it's so under-powered that it would end up being completely useless at lower speeds.
 
Hesparus said:
That 1" delta will work (I used to use one just like it) but it will be very slow since those are insanely under-powered. It will be faster than filing. The other ones are no good — they are designed for wood not metal. Most people will tell you that the minimum is 1hp or 1.5hp (I'm using a 1hp grizzly right now and it's got plenty of power) but you can do less in a pinch. That delta is 1/3hp and you will know it. Doing the whole thing by hand is a perfectly viable option and most people do their first few blades that way. But unless you're really strapped for cash, that delta is probably worth the $40.

- Chris

ETA: There's no reason to try to make an grinder like the delta variable speed. It doesn't go very fast in the first place, and it's so under-powered that it would end up being completely useless at lower speeds.
Click to expand...


perfect. thanks. i emailed the guy to check to see if its still around.

next task would be getting the right belts for it.
 
got my 1084 ordered. got some 1/4 x 2 x 48. should be able to make one of two knives outta that!

and also got a line on a nice delta 1" sander. should be picking that up this weekend for around $40.


does anyone on here offer HT services? just curious.
 
I'd skip that grinder if I were you. Its not the 1/3HP 1x42, its a 1/5HP and I think its 1x30. You can find belts for it, but that money is probably best spent on some good files. It may take a little longer, but you will have much better control and produce a better knife with files than a cheap grinder that may be too fast/underpowered, with limited belt selection.

Also, 1/4" stock is going to be a real pain for a beginner, and generally overkill. 1/8" is much better to start and still makes a solid knife that will actually cut well.
 
Last edited:
aarongb said:
I'd skip that grinder if I were you. Its not the 1/3HP 1x42, its a 1/5HP and I think its 1x30. You can find belts for it, but that money is probably best spent on some good files. It may take a little longer, but you will have much better control and produce a better knife with files than a cheap grinder that may be too fast/underpowered, with limited belt selection.

Also, 1/4" stock is going to be a real pain for a beginner, and generally overkill. 1/8" is much better to start and still makes a solid knife that will actually cut well.
Click to expand...

hey dude. i'm in arlington...

thanks for the heads up man. so good files would be nicholson brand right?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top