First Knife WIP

I really don't know the pro's and con's around it, but I'm thinking of using either wrought iron or copper for the guard. Justin when I'm filing, do I just start at the plunge and draw the file towards the blade point or do I file in both directions?

thanks

Jeff
 
After about 3,000 strokes, this is the knife at this point. I will take a break for about 12 hours and get crackin' tomorrow.

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I wish to thank everyone who gave me advice and or support up to this point. Still a long way to go, so I hope I attract more interest as we go along. I'm not the only one who could benefit from a seasoned knifemakers advice.

Thanks Again,

Jeff
 
You will want to file across the blade at the plunge area to create the square shoulder. As you work away from the plunge toward the tip you will be moving the file somewhat diagonally to work the angle you have established out along the blade-you are pushing the file across the blade but sliding it sideways at the same time toward the tip. Once you have a decent plunge established and have a wide enough area you can draw file, which is basically jusy laying the file across the blade at about 90 degrees (the same as when you start your plunge) and pulling it lengthwise down the blade, so that you are "drawing" the file toward you sideways. IMO draw filing is of limited value for blades this short but if you learn the technique it can be very useful for showing you any high spots that need to be reduced.
You will gain a feel for how the file works and how it dosent, pay attention to the feedback it gives you. You can tell when it is biting, when it is slipping, and when it is chattering. With some practice you can also get a fine feel for when the file is sitting flat on the bevel or if it is digging at a corner. The main thing to avoid is dragging it backwards, it shortens the life of the file for no purpose.
 
I learned the correct use of the layout paint is to just put a thin layer on - like a dusting rather than a paint job. It will flake if you try to use it like regular spraypaint to put on a thick layer.
 
I think I have some better pics. Look at these:

This is a pic with the file guide on. The plunge line might look like it goes all the way to the top, but in fact it is only filed out half way up.

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This one shows the outline of the curve of the stick tang as well as the beginnings of the plunge line and bevel.

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Another pic:

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More to come today as I make progress!!!

Thanks Everyone.

Jeff
 
Nephew, put that elk antler that I gave you next to the knife. I am just wondering if it is to long??????:confused:
 
Those pictures are better and it looks like you are coming along fine. Make sure you don't file your plunge line any higher up the blade than you plan on filing your bevel.

I'm also not sure what purpose the choil area is going to serve since it looks like you are going to cut it off when you cut out your tang?

If you decide to leave the choil in and cut back a little further for the tang I would move the plunge line back to the half way point in the choil.

My .02 hope it helps.

Here is a link describing the anatomy of a knife to help you with the terms.

http://www.jayfisher.com/knife_anato...nife_Anatomy_1
 
Glad I talked you into making the WIP. I have a question about the tang. I see it being drawn as curved to match the antler. How do you plan on drilling it curved that way through the antler?
 
It's going to require me to make two separate entry points, one from each side and then file out the opening to match the approximate size of the tang, fit it and mix up some epoxy and go to town. Not as easy as I explained it, but I'll getter done!!!:D

Jeff
 
KB1SYV said:
It's going to require me to make two separate entry points, one from each side and then file out the opening to match the approximate size of the tang, fit it and mix up some epoxy and go to town. Not as easy as I explained it, but I'll getter done!!!:D

Jeff
Click to expand...

Why not make it straight and same some headaches? You'll likely want to put a pin through anyway, in addition to the epoxy.
 
cdhumiston said:
Those pictures are better and it looks like you are coming along fine. Make sure you don't file your plunge line any higher up the blade than you plan on filing your bevel.

I'm also not sure what purpose the choil area is going to serve since it looks like you are going to cut it off when you cut out your tang?

If you decide to leave the choil in and cut back a little further for the tang I would move the plunge line back to the half way point in the choil.

My .02 hope it helps.

Here is a link describing the anatomy of a knife to help you with the terms.

http://www.jayfisher.com/knife_anato...nife_Anatomy_1
Click to expand...

Thank you for that terminology page!!!
 
Mr. Bad Example said:
Why not make it straight and same some headaches? You'll likely want to put a pin through anyway, in addition to the epoxy.
Click to expand...

I am definitely not the authority with this, but I was going to have IG weld some threaded rod to the tang and put an end on the handle.

Thanks

Jeff
 
Hey Uncle, I should drill all the way through the antler ? Right, and make it a curved tang?
 
KB1SYV said:
Hey Uncle, I should drill all the way through the antler ? Right, and make it a curved tang?
Click to expand...

Wait till your next visit and we will do it. It will go all the way thru, the part that the tang going into we will have to elongate with the saw drill bit on the flexshaft.;)
 
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