Fixed blades

shinyedges said:
It's amazing how much better of a cutter even .2 hundred thou+ blades are when you thin em. Turns a zero into a hero lol good eye
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In my experience, it's the shoulders. I have blades that are nice and thin behind the edge from the factory and they cut like trash. The bevel is too short and the shoulders too prominent.

The moment I extend the bevel by blending the shoulders they cut like scalpels.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
In my experience, it's the shoulders. I have blades that are nice and thin behind the edge from the factory and they cut like trash. The bevel is too short and the shoulders too prominent.

The moment I extend the bevel by blending the shoulders they cut like scalpels.
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You aren't wrong, I use calipers and measure thickness at the shoulder. If a knife is .03 thou at the shoulder (immediately behind the bevel) and you push the bevels back, where it used to be .03 thou is now thinner. The trade off in concrete chopping durability is an easy choice for me. I like a stout blade thickness with a thinned edge, lets me pry heavily if need be and still glide through material or shave wood much better than one would think a thick knife would.
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This p&l is .210 thou thick, but makes curls like a mora (not identically but surprisingly close) except you could jam this knife in a car door and kick it to pry it open.
 
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shinyedges said:
Watching the evolution of what he carried and then made was awesome. Dude had good taste in fixed blades, he had a Keffeler I drooled over..

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Remember when he sold that one - around $300 if I remember correctly ( had “Dic_s out for Haramby” engraved on it ). CM had a sense of humor most people would run from , was exactly why I liked the guy.
 
luethge said:
Remember when he sold that one - around $300 if I remember correctly ( had “Dic_s out for Haramby” engraved on it ). CM had a sense of humor most people would run from , was exactly why I liked the guy.
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😂 he cracked me up. His humor resembled my own in some ways. Any guy who dremels their Rolex just to prove no safe queens is alright with me lol I'm a no safe queen kinda guy too, bought it? Use it.
 
shinyedges said:
😂 he cracked me up. His humor resembled my own in some ways. Any guy who dremels their Rolex just to prove no safe queens is alright with me lol I'm a no safe queen kinda guy too, bought it? Use it.
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I think I got my Jackmandu from CM... I tried the Teklok oriented on the pancake Kydex in CM Carry config... pretty cool. Carry a 6+ inch blade like that upside down open carry here in CA will get you some looks though (we can only carry fixed open carry). He was one of a kind.
 
crufflers said:
I think I got my Jackmandu from CM... I tried the Teklok oriented on the pancake Kydex in CM Carry config... pretty cool. Carry a 6+ inch blade like that upside down open carry here in CA will get you some looks though. He was one of a kind.
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I remember when he got the jackmandu, that's cool you picked it up off him. If I'm camping or spending time outside I'll CM carry, it is good for being seated in the car too. Agree he was one of a kind.
 
shinyedges said:
Watching the evolution of what he carried and then made was awesome. Dude had good taste in fixed blades, he had a Keffeler I drooled over..

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Lusted after this for a long time…
Speaking with Keffeler resulted in no set date of him making another. So I sought out a fantastic maker here on BF and had these made.
Couldn’t be more pleased.

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SwissHeritageCo said:
In my experience, it's the shoulders. I have blades that are nice and thin behind the edge from the factory and they cut like trash. The bevel is too short and the shoulders too prominent.

The moment I extend the bevel by blending the shoulders they cut like scalpels.
Click to expand...

shinyedges said:
You aren't wrong, I use calipers and measure thickness at the shoulder. If a knife is .03 thou at the shoulder (immediately behind the bevel) and you push the bevels back, where it used to be .03 thou is now thinner. The trade off in concrete chopping durability is an easy choice for me. I like a stout blade thickness with a thinned edge, lets me pry heavily if need be and still glide through material or shave wood much better than one would think a thick knife would.
View attachment 2666856

This p&l is .210 thou thick, but makes curls like a mora (not identically but surprisingly close) except you could jam this knife in a car door and kick it to pry it open.
Click to expand...


Chris, over at "Father and Son Traditional Sharpening", has been my go-to answer.


My TGULB was a hot mess when it came to sharpening. No matter what method I used, the shoulders were so pronounced that I could never actually hit the edge.

Likewise, my "GWOT" Ontario 499 PSK was a complete Charlie-Foxtrot. The "Marbles"-like fuller made for a "short" blade that was ground like a wood splitter.

Neither was a cutter.


Enter Chris and the "V" edge that he applied to both, and "Voila!", I now have two knives that will easily gut and skin a whitetail(!)...



20240921_210956 (BF).jpg
 
Alone said:
Chris, over at "Father and Son Traditional Sharpening", has been my go-to answer.


My TGULB was a hot mess when it came to sharpening. No matter what method I used, the shoulders were so pronounced that I could never actually hit the edge.

Likewise, my "GWOT" Ontario 499 PSK was a complete Charlie-Foxtrot. The "Marbles"-like fuller made for a "short" blade that was ground like a wood splitter.

Neither was a cutter.


Enter Chris and the "V" edge that he applied to both, and "Voila!", I now have two knives that will easily gut and skin a whitetail(!)...



View attachment 2667310
Click to expand...
Bro.. fall down the rabbit hole of sharpening. Get a kme if you want a guided system or dmt stones if you can freehand well. I use both, I also have an edge pro apex 4 but don't use it. For the blades that need a lot of steel removed I'll use the kme. I used to sharpen for mirror edges hence the name, but I use my knives way to much for that.
 
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