Fixing blade rub/centering?

Signalprick said:
No to the above! You'll snap your blade. Watch this video. This is a simple process. I dont have a mallet like he has so I put a piece of gorilla tape over the blade and use an 8 ounce peening hammer.
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Great topic!
I'm always dissappointed by off-centering on a new knife.
I wish that video was better produced and the guy talked through what he was doing.
I'll have to watch it a few more times to figure it out.
Thanks for posting it.
 
Signalprick said:
No to the above! You'll snap your blade. Watch this video. This is a simple process. I dont have a mallet like he has so I put a piece of gorilla tape over the blade and use an 8 ounce peening hammer.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting this!
I was able to use this technique to successfully fix two knives, just received, with off center blades. Worked perfectly and both are dead centered now.:thumbsup:
 
Signalprick Signalprick did you buy your crinking block or is that something you fabbed up yourself? I'm going to go the route if warranty work, but these things interest me to no end.
 
Pinemoon said:
Can you explain the technique for us ?
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Please read post #19 in the link I provided and then watch the video. The OP explains it perfectly and then the video makes sense. :thumbsup:

Wild Willie said:
Signalprick Signalprick did you buy your crinking block or is that something you fabbed up yourself? I'm going to go the route if warranty work, but these things interest me to no end.
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It's funny, as I go further down the modding slip joints rabbit hole just how technical I discover these techniques and tooling to be! :D I have a smooth 1x block of wood and a common piece of shim. A piece of gorilla tape and a hammer. The wood itself is soft so no worries marring up your knife but the possibilities are limitless on how or what you want to do it with.
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^^ Thanks for the clarification.
I rewatched the video after reading the explanation, and your above post helped.
So... Looks like if the blade favors the mark side, the fix is to strike the blade on the opposite side, and vise-versa?
 
Pinemoon said:
^^ Thanks for the clarification.
I rewatched the video after reading the explanation, and your above post helped.
So... Looks like if the blade favors the mark side, the fix is to strike the blade on the opposite side, and vise-versa?
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Nope. Opposite of that.
 
Guys just make sure you strike the blade as close to the shoulder as you can. Also do likewise with the placement of that resting pad. The tang is generally annealed to a softer state roughly 1/8" or so into the blade. Above that it morphs to full hardness, which equals full brittleness. You're trying to focus the force of the blow on that 1/8" area above the shoulder. The resting pad forces it to bend in that area as well. If you place the pad farther up the blade you stand a good chance of snapping it because you're exposing the harder more brittle area to this force as well. If your hammer's too big, you might try something like a blunted cold chisel, placing it on the tang and striking it with the hammer.

If your blade is only slightly off center I don't know if it's worth the risk for you to try this. I don't think it's worth wrecking a hundred dollar knife over a few millimeters. On trappers I actually prefer the blade slightly favoring the mark side as the longer blades sometimes give a bit when pressing against the nail notch.

Eric
 
ea42 said:
Guys just make sure you strike the blade as close to the shoulder as you can. Also do likewise with the placement of that resting pad. The tang is generally annealed to a softer state roughly 1/8" or so into the blade. Above that it morphs to full hardness, which equals full brittleness. You're trying to focus the force of the blow on that 1/8" area above the shoulder. The resting pad forces it to bend in that area as well. If you place the pad farther up the blade you stand a good chance of snapping it because you're exposing the harder more brittle area to this force as well. If your hammer's too big, you might try something like a blunted cold chisel, placing it on the tang and striking it with the hammer.

If your blade is only slightly off center I don't know if it's worth the risk for you to try this. I don't think it's worth wrecking a hundred dollar knife over a few millimeters. On trappers I actually prefer the blade slightly favoring the mark side as the longer blades sometimes give a bit when pressing against the nail notch.

Eric
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Thanks Eric. I found your old post a while back and it has helped me a bunch.
 
Signalprick said:
Please read post #19 in the link I provided and then watch the video. The OP explains it perfectly and then the video makes sense. :thumbsup:



It's funny, as I go further down the modding slip joints rabbit hole just how technical I discover these techniques and tooling to be! :D I have a smooth 1x block of wood and a common piece of shim. A piece of gorilla tape and a hammer. The wood itself is soft so no worries marring up your knife but the possibilities are limitless on how or what you want to do it with.
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That's exactly what I like to see, simple ingenuitive and effective. Definitely something I'm going to keep filed away for a possible project knife down the line. Thanks for sharing
 
Signalprick said:
Thanks Eric. I found your old post a while back and it has helped me a bunch.
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Glad to help out, at least you know what my hands look like lol. I filmed that at work so I had to do it somewhat stealthily. Jezebel was a pass around knife from Mike at Drop Point Hunter, I think somewhere around 2011 or 2012.

Eric
 
Hey guys,
I tried this just now on two knives, a Boker Barlow and a Rough Rider small cotton sampler.
Unfortunately, I can't get either to move one way or another o_O

I tried the blunted cold chisel ea42 ea42 with a small 7oz hammer, then got bold and tried just the hammer (wrapped the hammer face in duct tape).

Both are small knives, wondering if this is a bit more difficult on a small blade ??
Signalprick Signalprick
 
Pinemoon said:
Hey guys,
I tried this just now on two knives, a Boker Barlow and a Rough Rider small cotton sampler.
Unfortunately, I can't get either to move one way or another o_O

I tried the blunted cold chisel ea42 ea42 with a small 7oz hammer, then got bold and tried just the hammer (wrapped the hammer face in duct tape).

Both are small knives, wondering if this is a bit more difficult on a small blade ??
Signalprick Signalprick
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The big unknown about doing that on knives is are the tangs annealed? Every company does or did things differently. I'm sure some companies don't anneal them at all and skip the crinking completely, letting the blades fall where they may. Trying to crink one of these blades is a recipe for disaster. Sometimes you have to whack a blade pretty hard to get it to move, but not knowing the hardness of the tang is really taking a chance. That's why I say unless the blade is actually rubbing the liner you might be better off leaving it alone. Of course if it's a cheapo disposable then whack away.

You definitely don't need a chisel with a 7oz hammer, I only mentioned that for those folks who only have something like a big claw hammer or framing hammer. etc. Those are a bit on the large side :eek::)
The mallet I used in the video was one pound including the handle, the head was probably about twelve or 13 ounces by itself. I crinked everything from little whittler coping blades to big 'ol folding hunter blades with that hammer. The important thing is knowing how hard to hit the blade, and the only way to master that is through trial and error. Believe me I sent folks ducking for cover more than once!

Eric
 
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