Fixing blade rub/centering?

B brownshoe No question about that, but I would've thought D2 is likely more brittle than softer carbon steels? Also, people were talking about bending a blade with a vice, which I think takes some nerve, and luck ;):eek:
 
Will Power said:
B brownshoe No question about that, but I would've thought D2 is likely more brittle than softer carbon steels? Also, people were talking about bending a blade with a vice, which I think takes some nerve, and luck ;):eek:
Click to expand...

Well I don't know squat, but others have had blades snap in batoning. I don't know the hardness of Queen D2, but some run D2 softer than others.
 
Well battening is a punishment yes...I thought Queen D2 was around 61 ? Could be wrong though.
 
Lansky1 said:
So, is the consensus that the crinking or vice bending techniques are better left to carbon steel (I have been hoping for a response from anyone who may have been successful with Case TruSharp or similar stainless steel ... is that a Case barlow in the vice pics above ?) I'm going to try it weds on a TruSharp Case Jack & will report back... unless somebody talks me down
Click to expand...
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the knife in that pic is one of the new GEC 86s that the owner customized into a Barlow. If so, it's 1095 steel.
 
So I tried it on a Case 62087 jack tonight with SS Trusharp blades - worked like a charm ! Started with a light tap & went on to more firm tap & was able to move it just enough. The clip blade was rubbing on the brass liner at first, got it centered perfectly. Thx guys - wouldn't have tried this without the intel in this thread.

NWwxn4m.jpg


PSpkJTa.jpg
 
Last edited:
Lansky1 said:
So I tried it on a Case 62087 jack tonight with SS Trusharp blades - worked like a charm ! Started with a light tap & went on to more firm tap & was able to move it just enough. The clip blade was rubbing on the brass liner at first, got it centered perfectly. Thx guys - wouldn't have tried this without the intel in this thread.

NWwxn4m.jpg


PSpkJTa.jpg
Click to expand...
Hey, way to go!
Great news :thumbsup:
I've got a Case stainless that I'll have to try this on.
 
I have extremely limited experience with this whole crinking thing, but I'm thinking this technique is safer with smaller/slimmer blades ... meaning, seems a lot more force would be required to move a larger/wider blade such as a full size stockman or trapper. I'm a bit leary to try it on a larger blade ... although if the bolster was clamped to prevent torquing of the pins & loosening of the blade, I will probably try it (I have a trapper that is way off center & would be a prime candidate).
 
I tried it again tonight, this time on a Case mini-trapper with SS steel blades. Put some duct tape on the face of a hammer & laid the blade against a 3/8" thick wood spacer block ... slowly worked up the force until I was able to just move the blade. Struck it maybe 8-10 times, each time I checked it & then tried it a bit harder until it moved. Worked out fine ... I think the key to this is not overdoing it - just gradually finding the right force to just move it without going too hard. I did both blades & it didn't stress the bolster pins at all.
 
Last edited:
I successfully used the above crinking method (just a hammer with duct tape on the face & 3/8" thick wooden spacer block, without the big screwdriver in the picture above - thats unnecessary) on a Case SS full sized trapper, Case SS single blade (6175), a Case SS single blade slimline trapper, and a Case SS single blade sowbelly (6139) ... I take my time and gradually increase the force of the hammer strike until the blade moves. So far I have not seen any evidence of stretching pins. I imagine sooner or later one of them is going to snap, but to me centering the blade on a SINGLE blade knife is worth the risk & taking my time to not use too much force...
 
On my 8th try (first 7 were Case SS blades), I finally have a failure to report.

I have a minty '79 Case 2 blade jack (6207 pattern) with the main clip blade way off center that rubs the brass liner. Thought the older carbon steel would be easier to move that the newer SS steel. I gave it hell - gradually increased the force of the hammer blows - couldn't get it to move. Finally really leaned on it & went too far ... didn't break the blade, but loosened up the hinge pin to the point where the blade wobbled pretty significantly. So at that point I gave up ... chucked it up in a vice and squeezed it back together & peened the pins back in place and went through all the grits & restored the bolsters. Knife looks & works fine again, just a tad better than it was when I started - not centered, but might be able to get a credit card between the blade & liner now. It was a project to bring it back, but lesson learned ... there's a point where you can go too far and do more damage than it's worth in an attempt to get a perfectly centered blade.
 
Last edited:
Lansky1 said:
On my 8th try (first 7 were Case SS blades), I finally have a failure to report. I have a minty '79 Case 2 blade jack (6207 pattern) with the main clip blade way off center that rubs the brass liner. Thought the older carbon steel would be easier to move that the newer SS steel. I gave it hell - gradually increased the force of the hammer blows - couldn't get it to move. Finally really leaned on it & went too far ... didn't break the blade, but loosened up the hinge pin to the point where the blade wobbled pretty significantly. So at that point I gave up ... chucked it up in a vice and squeezed it back together & peened the pins back in place and went through all the grits & restored the bolsters. Knife looks & works fine again, just a tad better than it was when I started - not centered, but might be able to get a credit card between the blade & liner now. It was a project to bring it back, but lesson learned ... there's a point where you can go too far and do more damage than it's worth in an attempt to get a perfectly centered blade.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say it was a total failure though, at least you were able to resolve the rubbing
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top