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I might be hated for this but... Is there any possibility of steel liners? Personally I'm not too worried about weight and it would help in the cost department also.
Folding Bushcraft Knife that is usable/comfortable - by Daniel Koster
- Thread starter Daniel Koster
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I think you may be onto something here Dan! I will definitely have to come check it out once you get her put together.
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DD - I will have to think about it more.
Tripwire895 - I did think it over. I originally designed it with skeletonized SS liners - so that the weight would match that of the same thing in Ti. But looking at the market right now, you can't sell in this price range without titanium. The lock-up is better too.
Remember, I'm doing these in larger quantities and the cost of Ti is easily absorbed. It would actually not result in any cost saving. I would have to spend more on the skeletonizing that I'd save on the Ti. I did price it out and that was the result. If I went with a thinner liner I could...but not on this knife. It needs a thicker liner/frame.
Dan
Tripwire895 - I did think it over. I originally designed it with skeletonized SS liners - so that the weight would match that of the same thing in Ti. But looking at the market right now, you can't sell in this price range without titanium. The lock-up is better too.
Remember, I'm doing these in larger quantities and the cost of Ti is easily absorbed. It would actually not result in any cost saving. I would have to spend more on the skeletonizing that I'd save on the Ti. I did price it out and that was the result. If I went with a thinner liner I could...but not on this knife. It needs a thicker liner/frame.
Dan
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I think your really on to something unique Dan!!! I want one Fo Show....
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You have hit the nail on the head. All of the functions, and none of the nonsense, and a serious knife without the thumbstuds! Good job!
When I started reading the description I was thinking that it is a $350 knife, so your not to exceed $400 makes sense to me.
I'm pleased with natural micarta as a handle material, but will you offer the same variety of handles that you do on your other knives?
You've specified the blade hardness a bit lower than is typical for your knives, and I assume that is because of the extra machining required for the lock.
If so, how much more would it cost to make it as hard as your regular Bushcrafter?
When I started reading the description I was thinking that it is a $350 knife, so your not to exceed $400 makes sense to me.
I'm pleased with natural micarta as a handle material, but will you offer the same variety of handles that you do on your other knives?
You've specified the blade hardness a bit lower than is typical for your knives, and I assume that is because of the extra machining required for the lock.
If so, how much more would it cost to make it as hard as your regular Bushcrafter?
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Fair enough, thanks for responding.
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Fancier - yes, same materials as available on my fixed blades. Same hardness I always do for 3V: 59-60 HRc
:thumbup:
Dan
:thumbup:
Dan
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Thanks for the information Dan. It might be time to update your Bushcrafter description on your webpage. Here is what it says:
4″ of 3V steel, hardened to 60-61 HRc, 01.40″ thick, “Scandi” grind, Brushed finish on flats, satin-finish on grind, small guard, thumbgrooves, spine rounded at handle front
http://kosterknives.com/knives/bushcraft/
Thanks again for everything you do.
4″ of 3V steel, hardened to 60-61 HRc, 01.40″ thick, “Scandi” grind, Brushed finish on flats, satin-finish on grind, small guard, thumbgrooves, spine rounded at handle front
http://kosterknives.com/knives/bushcraft/
Thanks again for everything you do.
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I'm curious to see how a folding knife will hold up under hard bushcrafting use. Do you intend for it to be able to baton? Do you plan on doing something with regards to the TI lock face (carbodize/carburize/steel insert)?
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Fancier - thanks, I updated it.
BellatorCordis - yes, I will be carbidizing the lock face. I do intend for the knife to be able to withstand proper batoning, but anybody who hits the junction between the blade and handle with a rock/hammer/etc. while batoning is going to get what they deserve.
BellatorCordis - yes, I will be carbidizing the lock face. I do intend for the knife to be able to withstand proper batoning, but anybody who hits the junction between the blade and handle with a rock/hammer/etc. while batoning is going to get what they deserve.
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I think that brings up one possible reason why there aren't more bushcrafter folders. Lock damage seems to be a real issue for folders sold as suitable for heavy service. Some buyers seem to take that concept as a challenge. When I get mine I'm not going to beat it with a stick.
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Oh - beating it with a stick will definitely be ok with me. I plan on doing that myself.
Here's an example of what I consider proper batoning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rQHAdBxOSSE
If you strike over the center of the blade you don't have any problems. The problem arises when you are using it to split wood like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jvlhXuweBj4
...and once the spine is fully buried in the wood you start beating on the blade/handle junction or the tip - which causes a lot of vibration and tends to wiggle things apart.
It's just like baseball - if it vibrates painfully, you're not doing it right.
There's a way to do it with a folding knife. You just have to make sure the diameter of the pieces you are splitting are less than half the length of the blade. I've found that when you only baton for kindling, and not try to split large logs, you don't have to hit it as much before it splits and even if it doesn't split, you can flip it around and go from the other side.
I do plan on making a video showing what is considered proper batoning technique that won't void the warranty.
Here's an example of what I consider proper batoning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rQHAdBxOSSE
If you strike over the center of the blade you don't have any problems. The problem arises when you are using it to split wood like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jvlhXuweBj4
...and once the spine is fully buried in the wood you start beating on the blade/handle junction or the tip - which causes a lot of vibration and tends to wiggle things apart.
It's just like baseball - if it vibrates painfully, you're not doing it right.
There's a way to do it with a folding knife. You just have to make sure the diameter of the pieces you are splitting are less than half the length of the blade. I've found that when you only baton for kindling, and not try to split large logs, you don't have to hit it as much before it splits and even if it doesn't split, you can flip it around and go from the other side.
I do plan on making a video showing what is considered proper batoning technique that won't void the warranty.
Well, thats a thing I never understood... why is it so difficult to make a scandy bushcraft folder?
Use a decent steel like in a fixed blade, make a contured handle from a highly resistant material like in a fixed blade, no pocket clip like in a ...., use a strong lock... which there are plenty examples out there... and then you just need to be a genius like Dan, and thats it already...
No honestly! Great Idea Dan!
there are scandis from Enzo (Scandi but handle will give you pain like crazy), spyderco (so filigrane you wood never want to use it), benchmade landslide(No real scandi and not the best steel and handle) and there is a custom from bernie garland thats has a recurve blade im not fond of... thats it!
My suggestion if I could give my humble opinion: Blade a little pointier, Palm swell a little more towards the blade, and some kind of coke bottle shape which is the most comfy handle shape in the world!
You seem to have some Eureka moments recently and you are really make wishes come true for us with your Midtech idea and your scandy folder!
I wanna point out that the Whittling friendly, one hand opening option is absolutely genius!
I can see one in dark curly maple or aged osage orange, green micarta with orange liners... or,....or,.....!
Whats the price point you are aming for... just so I know if I´m able to be in or not!
Please let me know Dan!
Hows the Mid Tech project going? Any pix of prototype yet!
Cheers and thank you for your innovative ideas, we all have been waiting for!
Cheers, Max
Use a decent steel like in a fixed blade, make a contured handle from a highly resistant material like in a fixed blade, no pocket clip like in a ...., use a strong lock... which there are plenty examples out there... and then you just need to be a genius like Dan, and thats it already...
No honestly! Great Idea Dan!
there are scandis from Enzo (Scandi but handle will give you pain like crazy), spyderco (so filigrane you wood never want to use it), benchmade landslide(No real scandi and not the best steel and handle) and there is a custom from bernie garland thats has a recurve blade im not fond of... thats it!
My suggestion if I could give my humble opinion: Blade a little pointier, Palm swell a little more towards the blade, and some kind of coke bottle shape which is the most comfy handle shape in the world!
You seem to have some Eureka moments recently and you are really make wishes come true for us with your Midtech idea and your scandy folder!
I wanna point out that the Whittling friendly, one hand opening option is absolutely genius!
I can see one in dark curly maple or aged osage orange, green micarta with orange liners... or,....or,.....!
Whats the price point you are aming for... just so I know if I´m able to be in or not!
Please let me know Dan!
Hows the Mid Tech project going? Any pix of prototype yet!
Cheers and thank you for your innovative ideas, we all have been waiting for!
Cheers, Max
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Thanks, Max. I think when I made it taller I forgot to go back and enlarge the radius out to the tip. I fixed the drawing.
And the prototype is still "oversized" in the pics. When it's finally finished it will indeed be more pointy...as I go by what's in my head and what I see, rather than the CAD files.
And the prototype is still "oversized" in the pics. When it's finally finished it will indeed be more pointy...as I go by what's in my head and what I see, rather than the CAD files.
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Here's a drawing showing the contouring from above. I forgot to include it earlier. Like I said - I've done tons of CAD modeling on this to check balance, function, shape, etc. So far, the prototype has been confirmation that the CAD modeling was correct. :thumbup:
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I really like the Spyderco Nilakka but it is a Liner lock and not scandi so I hope you go thru with it:
While I like the Spyderco handle contour I think yours would be even better.
While I like the Spyderco handle contour I think yours would be even better.
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That's awesome! With the Skandi grind, I might have to pick one up for camping...
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This is obvious, but the lock being the weak point on any folder, how about a lock to lock the lock? Something to make the knife as close to fixed blade strength as possible>>
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