Folding Bushcraft Knife that is usable/comfortable - by Daniel Koster

Can a folding bushcraft knife compete with the fixed blade version?

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Yes - it is a done deal. Pre-Order link is in the first post. :thumbup:

I'll probably make another prototype or two first. It's still a little ways down the road. I tend to be way too patient with things. I like to let them bake...kick around in my head for a while...see if I can't anticipate every eventuality. Which is why I really appreciate threads like this one where I get a wide variety of input and suggestions. Helps me make sense of my thoughts and narrows my direction.

Dan
 
untamed - I think you'll find that this bushcraft folder will be capable of doing the work of 2 of your other knives (1 fixed, 1 folding). ;)

Dan
 
Still taking suggestions? IMO the bushcrafter you make has one flaw, it's too thick. If you're just using it on wood it's fine but when you push the knife to do other things, like cut an onion, it suffers from the 1/8" thickness. Really, 3/32" thick is PLENTY strong on a scandi grind knife where it carries it's stock thickness farther down the blade. There's more steel there then on a comparable flat ground knife of the same width and therefore stronger. By stepping down just 1/32" in thickness the knife becomes much easier to use on material where the blade has to pass through it. On a folder where batoning is taken out of the equation, you shouldn't be using 1/8" stock. It should be 3/32" thick or thinner. That would open the knife up to being an all arounder. Really if you can get the lock to engage right, 1/16" thick would be a great knife. Also, I see no real benefit to using 3V. For something used to just cut as a pocket knife is used, a high end stainless seems a better choice. Just my opinion.
 
Points well made, Shotgun.

I still have to consider economics on this. I'm listening...just have a balancing act to perform.

The 3V comes 0.145" thick more-or-less. I have to take it down to 0.125 as it is to fit everything else in the process. I do like the idea of going with 0.100" thick 12c27 or similar (maybe CPM154). All of the above I can get in large quantities to keep costs down. When I'm ready to roll on this, it's all or nothing...no turning back...10-20 at a time. So, I want everything running smoothly ahead of time...using processes I'm already familiar with, have access to, etc. as much as possible.

Dan
 
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I'm impressed by the concept of a folding version of Dan's Bushcraft knife, so I'd like the design to stay focused on that.
I already have a folding Santoku in VG10 that slices onions like a dream, but this is the first "heavy duty" folding knife that has caught my imagination.
 
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Don't know how I missed this until now, but I want one bad. I have been on the lookout forever for a folding bushcrafter, this look looks simply amazing in every way.
 
Thanks, guys. :thumbup:

Just a reminder that the pre-order link in the first post is just to let me know you want to be notified when I open up the list. Just a name and an email. :thumbup:


That group gets first dibs.
:thumbup:

Dan
 
double post
 
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Hi Dan.

I really love this concept but can't commit because the likelihood is that customs would deem this as a one handed opener and would confiscate it.

Would you consider doing it without the hole and the old style blade indent??

I understand if you can't but that's the only reason I haven't JUMPED on this :)
 
I too question if 3V is right, I love 3V but isnt it more of a chopper steel? CPM 154 is a good choice I think or S90V if you wanted to keep it high end. I dont have any D2 knives but this seems like a good place to try it, sorry I know Im all over the map here. I vote stainless!
 
There are some folding knives with 3V steel - it won't be alone in the market. Even more so, there are folders with 1095 and O1. ;)

CPM154 is a still that I do like and will definitely consider it once I get this up and running.

It really is hard to beat 3V....it does so much. Most folks that buy custom folding knives will take care of it...plus it will be etched and stone-tumbled for a durable finish. Holds an edge well, push-cuts well, doesn't rust/tarnish as much as other carbon-steels, isn't too hard to sharpen (esp. if using diamond hones = easy).

D2 or S90v on a scandi grind is not much fun to sharpen.


I'm not out there to compete with other frame-lock folders. They can do their high-end, one-of-a-kind materials. The knives look great. ;)

I want performance, performance, performance...with as few compromises as possible. 3V does this the best. It really does. If I went with any of the above steels instead...it would be a compromise. I'd be losing ____________, or ____________, or ____________, and so on.


pap11y - you bring up a good point. It all depends on how I end up machining the slot. Right now I am leaning toward milling it myself. If that is the case, then yes it will be optional and I might replace it with a hollowed-out area as has been suggested previously. I have quite a few international buyers and definitely want to take care of you guys if I can. :thumbup:

Dan
 
yet another double post....how I love bladeforums on chrome...*groan*
 
^tell me about it Daniel

Anyways, fantastic idea, other businessmen should look up to you!
 
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Points well made, Shotgun.
(...)
I do like the idea of going with 0.100" thick 12c27 or similar (maybe CPM154)

I agree with Shotgun, from my personal experience I would also prefer something thinner than 1/8". I have found (by using your 1095 woodlore in 0.100") that a thinner blade doesn't mean less performance for bushcrafting if you use the knife properly. Instead it means more flexibility for a list of other (also non-bushcraft related) tasks, for example in camping / edc use. So, for me a blade thickness < 1/8" would be a plus as well.
 
OMG... Dan.. can you provide a nail nick version for us that live in nanny states like Australia? The import laws on folders here are draconic... but I'm absolutely sold on this..

Heck if it is too much trouble, don't put any hold or stud even...
 
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