Forum Knife Updates and comments

I have not cleaned or lubed them, yet
The blades on mine were also a bit stiff and tight, the clip more so than the sheepsfoot. I have had similar issues on a few Case and even GEC knives before, so I learned how to handle it. Hot soapy water flush of the pivots, work them open and closed submerged in the water, rinse out thoroughly, dry, squirt a little WD-40 just in the joint, continue to work back and forth, wipe off any excess WD-40, then a drop of mineral oil in the joints and continue to work them.

This fixed the sheepsfoot blade quickly. The main clip is getting better with use, and is developing an audible snap when opening. Closing snap is fine. I expect after a week of use and carry it'll be fully broken in.
 
The blades on mine were also a bit stiff and tight, the clip more so than the sheepsfoot. I have had similar issues on a few Case and even GEC knives before, so I learned how to handle it. Hot soapy water flush of the pivots, work them open and closed submerged in the water, rinse out thoroughly, dry, squirt a little WD-40 just in the joint, continue to work back and forth, wipe off any excess WD-40, then a drop of mineral oil in the joints and continue to work them.

This fixed the sheepsfoot blade quickly. The main clip is getting better with use, and is developing an audible snap when opening. Closing snap is fine. I expect after a week of use and carry it'll be fully broken in.
This is also the methodology that I have used.
 
I was scratching my head also wondering why everyone wanted the same blade arrangement on another serpentine frame as the CS knife myself but I feel this current package is much more enticing and attractive. Plus with the upgraded steel and elk covers, it’s a huge improvement. To me the CS knife was very bland and cheep feeling.

I wasn't disappointed with the CS knife, but I've never really bonded with it. I have seldom carried it. On the other hand, I "bonded" with the this year's knife almost immediately.

And yes my wife is quite sick, seeing a doctor but no relief yet, not good
G2

Gary, I'm so sorry to hear that. Smoke raised.

@Gary W. Graley - I never considered the thickness of the blades because it is a stockman (Buck 301) minus the spey blade and this particular knife is 4". Most stockman this size are meant to be a work knife thereby requiring a stout, robust, thickish, blade meant for work around say a ranch, farm, etc..

I fully agree with this. I measured a few of my 4" stockman knives with full flat ground blades from various manufacturers and a fair number were roughly 0.035" behind the edge.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/forum-knife-updates-and-comments.1597329/page-67#post-18603089

I understand your point, but I don't think this is a durability issue. The grind on some of these forum knives is even thicker than a standard Buck 301, which is almost legendary in terms of toughness. The spine thickness is the same as a standard 301, but not the thickness behind the edge. Caleb from Buck knows of the issue with my particular knife's thick grind, and has determined this to be a manufacturing aberration. The intended thickness was the same as a normal Buck 301, but there seems to have been some accidental variation in the run.

My knife went back to Buck yesterday. I'm sure that Buck will make things right. They've always done right for me in the past.

I have a full flat ground 301 from the mid 90's. It has the same behind the edge thickness as my Forum knife, ~0.035". My "post edge 2000" Bucks all are obviously much thinner with their super hollow ground profile. But I'm sure that Buck will fix you up.
 
The blades on mine were also a bit stiff and tight, the clip more so than the sheepsfoot. I have had similar issues on a few Case and even GEC knives before, so I learned how to handle it. Hot soapy water flush of the pivots, work them open and closed submerged in the water, rinse out thoroughly, dry, squirt a little WD-40 just in the joint, continue to work back and forth, wipe off any excess WD-40, then a drop of mineral oil in the joints and continue to work them.

This fixed the sheepsfoot blade quickly. The main clip is getting better with use, and is developing an audible snap when opening. Closing snap is fine. I expect after a week of use and carry it'll be fully broken in.
Thanks for the instructions on how to flush these. I kept reading about it, but wasn't sure how to do it.
 
Thanks for the instructions on how to flush these. I kept reading about it, but wasn't sure how to do it.
You may want to wrap the blade in that blue painters tape a few times so you can work the blade without worry about cutting yourself. The real trick is to use HOT water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands in. It will cause the metal to expand a little and help loosen up any polishing grit that got into the pivot so that it can wash out.
 
All,
Thank you for all the feedback good and bad on this offering. Please contact me if you have any issues and we will get them fixed up for you. you can contact me here or jhubbard@buckknives.com or warranty@buckknives.com and we will take care of you.
Each piece of elk starts as a full rack and then the pieces are cut out of that. The 'bow' (concave or convex pieces) you see in some photos is due to the curve of the elk. We make each set out of the same piece of elk, so one side can be concave while the matching piece is convex.


Gaps are making me cringe on some of those.
Walk and talk should break in.

All in all, it seems like this was a good run with minimal issues.





Send it into us. That looks like we snaked the rivet when it got pressed




That black crusty stuff would be the epoxy we used to glue on the scales.



Please keep all the feedback coming. We can't better unless we know where we fail. There are some comments/questions embedded in Gunstockjacks quote, so pop it open..

Thanks,

Jeff

This kind of on forum presence and the willingness to admit the problems and repair said problems is very heart warming. One vote here for using Buck again for a forum annual knife. We'll ask them to grind thinner next time. :)
 
We sand and blend the backs of these while blades are open, so it is common for the springs to not match when closed to varying degrees. There are many things that can lead to the low spring in the closed position. If it is mis-matched in the open and closed position both, that is something different.
What was wrong with the Elk?

Thank you, Jeff. I really appreciate the opportunity to ask whether this is considered an issue or not. The spring mis-match is only in the closed position. (Photo below)

I am over my initial reaction to the Elk. As predicted, I am loving it is different than most of the examples shown in this thread. Sorry about the picture quality. Hopefully, the porch note background will show off the Elk coloring.

1dKfDt1.jpg


IbeVK73.jpg


JnSU42E.jpg


Thanks, Brian
 
This kind of on forum presence and the willingness to admit the problems and repair said problems is very heart warming. One vote here for using Buck again for a forum annual knife. We'll ask them to grind thinner next time. :)

Next time I vote we all get the Buck semi hollow grind that made them 110's famous back in the day! Wouldn't that be nice for those folks who like convex sharpening...little less room for wear and error though.
Been carrying and using mine some. Kicked all others out of my mind and pocket...at least until my dixie stockman arrives. Noticed some quick loss of hair popping sharpness....hoping putting my own edge on it will maybe improve things.
Sure it will as I have faith Buck does knife steel right! Glad I've got some diamond hones because I expect the heat treat made the blades tough!
 
Next time I vote we all get the Buck semi hollow grind that made them 110's famous back in the day! Wouldn't that be nice for those folks who like convex sharpening...little less room for wear and error though.
Been carrying and using mine some. Kicked all others out of my mind and pocket...at least until my dixie stockman arrives. Noticed some quick loss of hair popping sharpness....hoping putting my own edge on it will maybe improve things.
Sure it will as I have faith Buck does knife steel right! Glad I've got some diamond hones because I expect the heat treat made the blades tough!
Hollow grind is the tool of the devil. In purgatory the only knives I'll have will be hollow grind.

Not that I'm opinionated on the subject.... :D:D:D
 
Anyone else has side to side play on theirs? Or am I the only one?

Who do I contact to get it fixed or replaced?

I don't think it's smart to ship before the holidays because of all the packages getting lost.. best to wait until Jan.
 
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Anyone else has side to side play on theirs? Or am I the only one?

Who do I contact to get it fixed or replaced?

I don't think it's smart to ship before the holidays because of all the packages getting lost.. best to wait until Jan.
Quoted on this very page.
All,
Thank you for all the feedback good and bad on this offering. Please contact me if you have any issues and we will get them fixed up for you. you can contact me here or jhubbard@buckknives.com or warranty@buckknives.com and we will take care of you.
Each piece of elk starts as a full rack and then the pieces are cut out of that. The 'bow' (concave or convex pieces) you see in some photos is due to the curve of the elk. We make each set out of the same piece of elk, so one side can be concave while the matching piece is convex.


Gaps are making me cringe on some of those.
Walk and talk should break in.

All in all, it seems like this was a good run with minimal issues.





Send it into us. That looks like we snaked the rivet when it got pressed




That black crusty stuff would be the epoxy we used to glue on the scales.



Please keep all the feedback coming. We can't better unless we know where we fail. There are some comments/questions embedded in Gunstockjacks quote, so pop it open..

Thanks,

Jeff
 
My general thoughts on the 2018 traditional forum knife: I have had some time to fondle and generally take a measured look at this knife. Generally speaking, I'm not real picky in terms of most things, even blade centering as long as it doesn't rub significantly. I like a nice snap, but it is not extremely necessary overall unless it makes the knife almost unsafe to use. I have gotten used to the fit & finish of GEC made knives and honestly have come to expect that with all of my knives since I started buying GEC slippies. But that is probably an unreasonable standard.

I initially assumed that this knife would be handled by Buck much like they might ones done in their custom shop or low production stuff. With the numbers that were made, this is a regular production grade knife overall. That's okay. But that also suggests that this knife is consistent in terms of fit & finish with regular production knives with some special extra's like the elk scales, CPM-154 blade steel, long pull, and two blade versus three blade. It will be used as a standard for future purchases of Buck slip joint knives for me.

Not going to bother measuring the blade thickness like some here even though I have a micrometer that I use for measuring group size when target shooting (22's mostly).

I have mentioned that my scales could be better matched. But honestly, they aren't bad overall and I'm comfortable with what Buck has done. My knife's scales are nicer than some I have seen pictures of here. The texture of the elk is about as good as I could have hoped for from Buck.

I think my forum knife is pretty nice overall.
 
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Shot with standard Winchester Lever Action iron sights (hooded post front - Blade rear).

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The knife I was carrying that day. I always carry it when at the range - Range Box..

Buck 055
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Here's a thought. The 2018 BF knife would make a great Range Box knife. The sheepfoot blade would made a great patch knife.

JDeTFpy.jpg
 
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