Front Flipper Button Lock Design

Me too. If this comes out with high tolerances and works well...im in all the way for 2.
Ill be second in line after lapedog...he can have the proto. Ill take 2 with the kinks worked out. ;) seriously tho...looks awesome. Im serious about 2.
Great design!
 
Me too. If this comes out with high tolerances and works well...im in all the way for 2.
Ill be second in line after lapedog...he can have the proto. Ill take 2 with the kinks worked out. ;) seriously tho...looks awesome. Im serious about 2.
Great design!

Glad you like it! (And tight tolerances is what I'm going for. I'm a mechanical engineer at an aerospace company and have been designing and building flight hardware for 7 years. So anything less than tight is unacceptable!)
 
Excellent. If there is a passaround before production...ill definitely be in on that and give feedback.
Just saying. :D
 
Question...will there be a detent to make it FF well? Or is the button lock acting as the detent?
Sorry if someone already asked.
 
Also, just my 2 cents...id rather a sculpted ti clip. Not a wire one.
And definitely titanium scales. Also, what steel will be in the blade? And who is heat treating the blades? Sorry, i know...so many questions!!
 
Oh and 3.25"-3.35" blade length...:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Excellent. If there is a passaround before production...ill definitely be in on that and give feedback.
Just saying. :D

I would definitely like to get 1 early to do a passaround before the bulk order is produced. I'll let you guys know .

Question...will there be a detent to make it FF well? Or is the button lock acting as the detent?
Sorry if someone already asked.

The button lock will be the detent. That's the biggest thing I'll be prototyping. Making sure the detent is strong enough that the flipping action is good.

Also, just my 2 cents...id rather a sculpted ti clip. Not a wire one.
And definitely titanium scales. Also, what steel will be in the blade? And who is heat treating the blades? Sorry, i know...so many questions!!

Definitely going with a 3d machined clip, not a wire one. As much as I like the wire clips it just doesn't look right on this knife. The steel will be s35vn. As far as the heat treat, if I partner with a knife company they will be doing the heat treatment. If I go with a local machine shop I'm going to use one of the two well-known heat treaters on this forum.
 
Oh and 3.25"-3.35" blade length...:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I think he is trying a version where the button lock is the detent a’la Hogue knives and one with a detent ball. The Hogue knives actually flick out very well considering there is no detent but I believe for their flipper button locks like thr Ex05 they put some detent system.
 
I would definitely like to get 1 early to do a passaround before the bulk order is produced. I'll let you guys know .



The button lock will be the detent. That's the biggest thing I'll be prototyping. Making sure the detent is strong enough that the flipping action is good.



Definitely going with a 3d machined clip, not a wire one. As much as I like the wire clips it just doesn't look right on this knife. The steel will be s35vn. As far as the heat treat, if I partner with a knife company they will be doing the heat treatment. If I go with a local machine shop I'm going to use one of the two well-known heat treaters on this forum.

I’m using my Jewish magic to make sure that this flipper and your business is a great success.
 
I think he is trying a version where the button lock is the detent a’la Hogue knives and one with a detent ball. The Hogue knives actually flick out very well considering there is no detent but I believe for their flipper button locks like thr Ex05 they put some detent system.

the plan is to not need a detent ball. I think I'll be able to dial in the detent through the button lock by changing the angle of the chamfer the button lock falls into in the closed position. It'll take a few iterations but I think the action will be very very good. Plus having the button lock you'll get a free swinging blade when the lock is fully depressed.

I’m using my Jewish magic to make sure that this flipper and your business is a great success.

Perfect! I'll take any help I can get
 
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Anybody remember the Tekna Hidden Edge?

That's what this guy's design reminds me of. Kind of like that. Ball or button lock, hmm?








Hey look, it's kind of a flipper too.. Except with no flipper. More of a flicker. It used to flick open buttery smooth like way back then. It's still locks up good and still holds up surprisingly.

Yeah, I still have it. 2d knife I owned after a SAK being the 1st.
 
Anybody remember the Tekna Hidden Edge?

That's what this guy's design reminds me of. Kind of like that. Ball or button lock, hmm?








Hey look, it's kind of a flipper too.. Except with no flipper. More of a flicker. It used to flick open buttery smooth like way back then. It's still locks up good and still holds up surprisingly.

Yeah, I still have it. 2d knife I owned after a SAK being the 1st.

Haha i remember tekna. They had some really innovative knives. Great company. I remember this hidden edge, though I don’t really see the similarity to the front flipper being discussed here.

Btw it will be a button lock. The op misspoke when he said ball lock.
 
Anybody remember the Tekna Hidden Edge?

That's what this guy's design reminds me of. Kind of like that. Ball or button lock, hmm?








Hey look, it's kind of a flipper too.. Except with no flipper. More of a flicker. It used to flick open buttery smooth like way back then. It's still locks up good and still holds up surprisingly.

Yeah, I still have it. 2d knife I owned after a SAK being the 1st.
Can't find any info on this thing but it looks like a Paul Axial Lock. Are you familiar with those?

I don’t really see the similarity to the front flipper being discussed here.
Nor I.
 
I've been watching this, and I have a few more suggestions, and a few questions.

First, I'd love to see a lefty clip option on this. Button locks are more or less ambidextrous by nature, easily actuated by thumb or index/middle finger. If the clip is recessed there should be a filler tab, though, so people don't whine.

Second, I think I can explain the flipper orientation a bit better with what I suggested earlier. G&G Hawk do a lot of flippers with a bottom rounded front flipper (parallel to the edge) instead of top mounted. As far as I'm aware, the top mounted flipper is specifically because of laws in South Africa that ban a bottom mounted flipper, like traditional flipper tabs or front mounted ones that disappear into scales when open. A button lock doesn't get in the way of a bottom mounted flipper like a liner or frame lock does, so it's really nice to bring something different to the market.

Third, what steel were you looking at doing? There's a lot of high performance cheap steels out there, from stuff like AEB-L to BD1N (if you can find it, I looked and couldn't), if you don't want to go with super steels.

Lastly, I know it's going to sound silly, but you are going to use hardened Torx or hex fasteners, right? Philips and flat heads are a little cheaper, but they are so prone to stripping.
 
I've been watching this, and I have a few more suggestions, and a few questions.

First, I'd love to see a lefty clip option on this. Button locks are more or less ambidextrous by nature, easily actuated by thumb or index/middle finger. If the clip is recessed there should be a filler tab, though, so people don't whine.

Second, I think I can explain the flipper orientation a bit better with what I suggested earlier. G&G Hawk do a lot of flippers with a bottom rounded front flipper (parallel to the edge) instead of top mounted. As far as I'm aware, the top mounted flipper is specifically because of laws in South Africa that ban a bottom mounted flipper, like traditional flipper tabs or front mounted ones that disappear into scales when open. A button lock doesn't get in the way of a bottom mounted flipper like a liner or frame lock does, so it's really nice to bring something different to the market.

Third, what steel were you looking at doing? There's a lot of high performance cheap steels out there, from stuff like AEB-L to BD1N (if you can find it, I looked and couldn't), if you don't want to go with super steels.

Lastly, I know it's going to sound silly, but you are going to use hardened Torx or hex fasteners, right? Philips and flat heads are a little cheaper, but they are so prone to stripping.

The Spyderco smock has what I consider to be the ideal edge side flipper.

C CO_EDC any idea on steel choice? Atleast consider Cpm154 please!
 
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