Gaps between liner and spring?

AR fan

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I just bought a Custom Made slippie,(I won't mention the maker).
Tha problem is that on the back of the knife, between the spring and liner/frame there is a gap in one spot. The rest of the knife is seamless. If you hold the knife up to the light you can see through the gap, it's between the blade pivot and the spring pivot.
Is there normally gaps like this on customs?
I need to know, I don't want to ask the maker if this is common. I don't want to offend him.
Is there any way to fix something like this?
 
It shouldn't be a gapeing hole, but there needs to be some clearance in the area between those two pins to give the spring room to move. If you can easily see light, it may be too much.

Fran
 
A lot of knives would show light if there was no buffing compound stuck between the spring and liners.

The question I have - Is there any sideplay in the blade that would indicate the front pivot is too loose?

With removeable scales getting rid of the gap isn't tough as the fix is tightenting the pivot pins at the middle and blade..... The maker should not be offended if you ask them to tighten the gaps.
 
No knife, custom or production, is perfect though most reputable makers take pains to do the very best job they can.

If the gap is very noticeable and troubling (as it would appear to be from your posting here) then the best course would be to contact the maker and bring the issue to his attention. If you can send him an image of the trouble spot it would be helpful so that he'll have a good idea of the problem before any expense is incurred for shipping/insurance etc.

I'm willing to allow a certain amount of leeway when it comes to knives. The fact is that you can find something amiss on any knife. The best barometer is whether or not it's something you can live with. The more custom knives you have to use as comparisons, (even if only viewed at shows or a friend's collection), the easier it is to determine a reasonable course of action.
 
here's a pic, craftsmanship you can expect from LES VOORHIES
1.jpg
 
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Show us an image (close-up or macro) of the backspring area without it being backlit so we can see what the alignment looks like under normal conditions.
 
AR fan, you wouldn't be out of line to contact the maker, share the images and discuss the matter with him. I'm sure one way or another he'll make it right for you.

Keep us posted.
 
AR fan, I was remiss in not adding another thought I had in my previous post.

Since I don't know the history of this knife nor the maker, my comments were predicated upon the assumption that you are the original owner/purchaser of the knife.

If this is not the case, then I would take the issue up with the individual or purveyor that I purchased the knife from, or, alternatively if you don't wish to return the knife for a refund, contact the maker and ask him whether the knife is still covered by him. It may be covered under the maker's original warranty (implied or expressed) or you may have to pony up for any work needed to bring it back to its original condition.
 
I just received an e-mail from the maker, he says that's the way the knife was made and couldn't fit it any better cause he doesn't have a surface grinder. He also said he won't do anything about it.
 
I've been looking at this thread for a couple minutes now trying to decide if i should post something and give up the fact that I am the maker.

well I try to always own up to whats mine and this knife is my work. This was the 3rd slip joint i ever made and I recall discussing them with people here and talking about the gaps and pins showing in the bolsters. I talked to a couple other makers about the gap and was told that yes there is a gap but it was not excessive (at least not for an early attempt) I priced the knife accordingly ($250) and by the time i finished #9 i had decided to stop making them until i could address the problems i was having.

As for fixing the problem, I would not have sold it like that if I had had the ability to correct it (sorry, I'm starting to sound a little defensive) but as it stands, i don't have a surface grinder and therefore I can't make it better than it is now (unless I buff the crap out of it and fill up the gap with buffing compound) The original owner never complained about it, and the knife works properly from what I've heard from the new owner so I'm not sure what I can do about this.

AR fan, I hope you understand my position on this, most of the knives I make are covered by me but that really covers the operation and usability of the knife. I know you did not want to "out" me on this one but I hope I have nothing to hide.
 
But Elliott is right on the money though,and if it was purchased direct from a reputable maker Most often they want you to be happy,so honestly,talking with them first is moreso the way to go .
I know it can be a hassle or frustrating even,sometimes,especially if it was a long wait for delivery
Most knifemakers want thier customers satisfied though & the ones I've dealt with stopped making any other knives until they corrected the delivered /unsatisfactory one,with real good turn around time

I go by pricerange though,good luck on it,hope I helped your thinking it out
-Vince
 
Here is a quote from my original for sale ad:

This one didn't come out too bad, it has a few of the same newbie problems that #2 has, a little gap between the liners and spring up near the blade, I have an idea how i might stop this on the next one and the outline of the pivot pin is still visible but it's a little better this time.

EDIT: Yes, now I'm getting defensive :(
 
My last post was enterd before I saw these & it seems Les was crystal clear in his description
Vince
 
AR fan would not have seen that post, thats what the original buyer would have seen. AR bought it from someone else so this is not really his fault.
 
I wish you would have mentioned that ad when I called you to authenticate that you were the maker.
 
I just received an e-mail from the maker, he says that's the way the knife was made and couldn't fit it any better cause he doesn't have a surface grinder. He also said he won't do anything about it.

AR fan, I hope you will end up keeping and enjoying what seems to be in all other respects a very nice knife.

I just wanted to address your last comment that "he won't do anything about it".

I'm hoping that it was just a hastily written sentence and not intended to disparage or otherwise imply that the maker has blown you off.

The fact that the maker "can't" fix it is world's different from saying that he "won't".

Given that we now know that you were not the original purchaser, your remedy would be with the person you purchased (or traded) the knife from if you find the issue unacceptable.

I will move this thread over to the "Feedback" area now as we are crossing into territory not germane to the Traditional Forum.
 
I wish you would have mentioned that ad when I called you to authenticate that you were the maker.

Thats the 1st thing that came to mind when I saw your e-mail, but that knife was sold almost a year ago and you ask only if i was in fact the maker. Keep the knife if you can't get the seller to take it back and I will offer you or the seller credit of $250 towards another knife. Thats all i can think to do do. If i could fix it I would.
 
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