Glue Wars - the battlefield is set

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Sando

Sando

Knife Maker
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
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It's been too long since I started planning this, but at least it's begun:

The contestants
glues.jpg


Here's the playing field:

#1 Loctite Extreme Repair (flexible category)
#2 JB Weld
#3 West System Epoxy (thanks to Fitzo!)
#4 Dev Con 2 ton slow cure
#5 Gorilla Glue
#6 GE Silicon II (flexible category)
#7 Loctite e-120HP epoxy
#8 Acraglas Gel
#9 Loctite u-o5Fl Urethane adhesive (flexible category)
#10 Loctite 406 (super glue entry)



The battlefield

A single bar of ATS-34 at 60 HRC. I prepared the bar as follows:

Sand to 100 microns
Scrub with Simple Green and a tooth brush until water sheets
Boil in water with a teaspoon of TSP for 15 minutes
(left a residue, so)
Scrub with simple green and a tooth brush
Dry with cotton towel
Spray with tetrachloroethylene
Air dry

The wood:

Stabilized walnut.
Drilled with 2 1/4 by 1/4 divots
Sanded to 220 grit
wiped with brake cleaner
(One piece soaked in water as per Gorilla Glue instructions)

cleaners.jpg



The Battle field in all it's glory

clamps.jpg


Everything was clamped down tight! Why? because I don't like to see a glue line. I want the internal pockets to hold on and the thin glue line to seal it up.

The assembly was left in a 100 degree oven for 16 hours


First Casualty: GE Silicon II

fail1.jpg


I don't know why but the silicon just didn't set up?

Take a look at the Gorilla Glue. It expands and makes a mess. But we'll see if it's worth it.


First Test

After it has another 24 hours, I'm going to grind the wood flush with the steel. Just like you do in knife making.

Steve
 
I bet on J.B. Weld, say 10$ :)

Mr Steve, It's very suprising that you spend your precious time to share your experience and that neat. It is not supposed to suprise me as I visited this forum for 2 1/2 months and shared my experience and some silly experiments, but it does... Thanks for sharing...
 
My money's on JB Weld.

But ...placing the test pieces in a 100 degree oven for 16 hours isn't exactly following each manufacturer's instructions for drying their particular product. (For example, JB Weld requires that the glue set up for a period of time before subjecting it to heat, I believe.)

To do it accurately you would have to cut the steel in separate pieces and follow the product instructions for adhearing and curing each sample. Then, when they have all cured per their specifications, you test them.
 
I should have mentioned my winner criteria!

I'm looking for something that holds (not necessarily the strongest) after it's been subjected to various 'environment' chambers:

Dishwasher for a week
Bolted into the engine compartment of my car
???

I'll run impact tests in between to see if the glue has broken down and lost it's hold.

The flexible adhesives are on there, because I'd prefer to use one of those if it holds up. Why? Less chance of cracking wood, irovy and stuff when attached to steel.


Steve

BTW Tj I didn't know about that one! FWIW The one with the strongest hold is E-120HP it's rated at 5,000 psi!? It's also the most expensive and hardest to get.
 
I agree with jiminy. If you don't fully follow the instructions for each product the test is invalid.

Also might want to add Speed Bonder 326 for the next round. Priced like Liquid Gold but worth it.
 
Jiminy,

I don't think 100 degrees is a problem for any of them. All the epoxy data sheet I studied say they like to cure in a warm temp 75 is a general minimum. Besides some people live in 100 degree weather!

Yes I tried to follow the directions for all of them.

We should check, but I think the heat they are talking about is more in the 200+ range.

hehhehehee and that's to come!

Steve
 
Sando said:
Dishwasher for a week
Bolted into the engine compartment of my car
???
Click to expand...


Clothes dryer on "High" overnight! :D ;)

Then the freezer, then the dryer, then the freezer, then give them to Cliff... :eek: ;)
 
then give them to Cliff
Click to expand...

He'll just blow torch the wood then complain that the glue didn't protect it from getting burned. All the while stating that Busse and Swamp Rats handles don't burn. :D :rolleyes:

OH, and then he will want replacement test samples. :D
 
I'm watching this and taking notes Steve. I still haven't received all of my materials and will be testing myself when they get here. I'll post it all here also and then we can compare.
 
Kiwi303 said:
How do I do that? Can't find a button neatly labeled "Subscribe" on the page... is it done through the preferences page?
Click to expand...
Click on the "Thread Tools" button near the top of the page; it will give you the option of subscribing to a thread.
Regards,
Greg
 
Very cool project Steve. It must be alot warmer in CA right now. I'd need a blowtorch just to get the various containers open right now. ;) I'm looking forward to the results. I'm betting on old JB, too.
 
The West System 105/205 will be my pick as the ultimate winner.
The RTV failed already because it cannot cure when clamped tight.
It cures by evaporation, and when you clamped it tight, it was like putting it back in the tube, and putting the cap back on... :rolleyes:
It would have worked better on an unstabilized wood, and even better on something real porus, such as red oak. Even then, the cure time would be days, if not a week..
 
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