Glue Wars - the battlefield is set

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Steve,
Thank you for all the work involved and great info passed along. The summary is a nice touch and has been added to my tome of knifemaking.
Regards,
Greg
 
Well done Steve. You've done something that most of us (including and especially me) can't be bothered with. Pre-conceived notions are killers when they're not backed up with cold, hard facts. I've used Devcon all these years but I've always used rivets with piened heads as well on scales. And I've used Devcon for most all of my hidden/stick tang knives as well.

I'm thinking the test was worth your time and you should be happy with your results because you know how thoroughly you applied the tests. Well done.
 
Sando said:
Wow, that stuff sounds great! I'm gonna have to see where I can find it.

Steve

Steve,
I think I found a similar product, though this is more advanced I guess. I has too much advantages, like vibration, chemical and high temp resistance, excellent gap filling etc.. I think this is very similar to Hyper-Flex:
Permabond:
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/31272

also here is another
Surlock Teflon.
http://www.surlok.com/tds/1567.htm

Or try another anaerobic pipe sealant which is most available for you.
 
I goofed. I thought I had reviewed the thread well enough but find now I had not. What I said in my last post Steve had already said before in the thread.

RL
 
galadduin said:
Steve,
I think I found a similar product, though this is more advanced I guess. I has too much advantages, like vibration, chemical and high temp resistance, excellent gap filling etc.. I think this is very similar to Hyper-Flex:
Permabond:
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/31272

also here is another
Surlock Teflon.
http://www.surlok.com/tds/1567.htm

Or try another anaerobic pipe sealant which is most available for you.

but both need to be Mechanically attached because..
they both say


Pipe Sealant produces full torque strength for pipe joints.

March 8, 2004 08:23 - PERMABOND® LH050 PURE Anaerobic Pipe Sealant fills up entire space between male and female metal components and instantly seals connection. Cured product typically exceeds burst rating of pipe and locks pipes, plugs, or fittings against vibration loosening. Single-component paste will seal even when direction in which pipe must face does not allow complete seating of threads. Disassembly of fittings for maintenance is still possible using normal tools.

and
Stable in the presence of air, these products cure when placed between two mating metal parts, forming a resilient, vibration-proof, polymer shim. SUR-LOK adhesive/sealants provide the user with additional performance characteristics, including resistance to corrosion or galvanic attack, as well as solvent resistance; while allowing disassembly with normal tools.
 
Dan Gray said:
but both need to be Mechanically attached because..
they both say ...

Ok, it is what they say, but my test still hangs on in dish washer and impact test. It is only two clamped flat steels, no pin, no hole. May be clamping is mechanical enough :D ..


Edit:
Also it is an advantage IMHO for it is anaerobic, It stays liquid outside, when clamped it is too easy to clean the sides, no visible traces of the adhesive left, no sanding is required, just rub it with a piece of cloth, voila...
 
galadduin said:
Ok, it is what they say, but my test still hangs on in dish washer and impact test. It is only two clamped flat steels, no pin, no hole. May be clamping is mechanical enough :D ..


Edit:
Also it is an advantage IMHO for it is anaerobic, It stays liquid outside, when clamped it is too easy to clean the sides, no visible traces of the adhesive left, no sanding is required, just rub it with a piece of cloth, voila...

It is only two clamped flat steels
let me understand
it's in the washer with the clamps (ON) :confused:
 
galadduin,

Keep the test going! I'm all ears.

You know I was really discouraged I my test didn't really reveal anything I wanted to about these 'glues'. So much so I wasn't going to try again.

But, it's been a couple of days. I think I'll start over....


Steve
 
NOT clamped in the dish washer for sure! The clamps were off after cure time was over (my sealant has 1 hour curing time). Unlike the expoxies the clamping is required to make a good bond (this is another advantage I think). Also I ordered a camera (Sony DSC-W1), I may post some pics after as soon as it arrives if you interested. The test piece is survived with no problem after all. I may also replay the test with photos..
 
Sando said:
galadduin,

Keep the test going! I'm all ears.

You know I was really discouraged I my test didn't really reveal anything I wanted to about these 'glues'. So much so I wasn't going to try again.

But, it's been a couple of days. I think I'll start over....


Steve

If you retest these adhesives try a metal-metal test for bolsters & guards (as the bolsters' water resistance is important because they are on front and recieve more vibration from the flexible blade, they tend to loose) and add a pipe sealant to he competitors. I will be interested to see a comparision.

Best wishes
EMRE KIPMEN
 
galadduin said:
NOT clamped in the dish washer for sure! The clamps were off after cure time was over


I was hoping so :)

I'm wondering why you can use reg tools
On this stuff other than with tools you can apply a lot of pressure..

I'm thinking the dissimilar materials (shrinkage rate ) have a lot to do with most of this..and if the sealer/adhesive doesn't soak into and bind
the materials on the moister side.. IE: wood.. it ends up a prob..
 
Sealing bolster is a big problem (in my book).

Sure peen them on, but if you aren't soldering how do you keep water out? Even stainless can corrode.

I'm not worried about a peened bolster coming loose, so even if you could break the adhesive bond by hand it isn't a problem. But like Emre notes all that blade flexing is tough on the seal. You need something that will give and withstand kitchen temps and never get brittle.

In other words, plain old pipe sealant doesn't hold the pipes together, it keeps the water out. I think bolsters need the same kinda treatment.

Steve
 
Hello all, thank you for all your work and comments about this subject matter...it's been very helpful to a newbie like me. I have a quick question about E-120HP. I found a place to purchase this in my city but i don't want to pay the $60+ for the dispenser gun and tips. Are these really required to get the same great results? I remember seeing a post about a home-made dispenser, but I can't see the pictures, nor can I find the original post
Thanks in advance.
 
Moderators,

This thread is one of the classics and I'm glad to see it drug back to life. Rather than lock it, perhaps it's better left open in case someone needs to add to it again in the future?
 
Byard, welcome to Bladeforums. Filling out your profile helps people know where you are and a bit about you.

Please look at the date when you pull up a thread in searching........this is an EIGHT year old thread. Thread Closed.

Nathan, I can''t think of much a person could add after eight years that would not be more useful in a new thread. If a new subject needs this info, just link it in the new tghread.
 
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