Glue Wars - the battlefield is set

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One thing I can think of, a sample on the end of a bar recieves more shock compared to the one in the middle as it sits on the resonance generating part of the bar. I dont know where the impact casualities were but that might be a problem.
 
galadduin,

Very good point! I thought of that and tried to minimize that by having a long bar (big arc).

Here's a picture of our casualties:


deathrow.jpg


Given their placement I don't think that was a cause.

Steve
 
BTW on the casualties.

I've done a post mortem.

The west systems has good coverage on the wood and adhered pretty well. The dimples appear to have an air bubble in them, but I don't think that was a cause. It just pulled away from the steel.

The acraglass looks more solid. But again it favored the wood.

Now if everything came off, or all on one side, or all on one end, we might deduce a problem in the testing or application or something. However, the remaining adhesives all like the steel just fine. And the survivors are randomly arranged.

Now it's off to the dishwasher for a week.

Steve
 
I might be wrong on the West System...
Whichever of the epoxies has the highest shrinkage or expansion on curing may just come off with little coaxing.
The samples in the middle of the bar are going to exposed to more flexure of the bar, as opposed to the end ones, which will have essentially none.
Question: Are all the epoxies waxless? Some resins contain waxes, especially the ones used in making parts in molds.


One thing on the Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane glue) is the amount of water required to activate it is fairly small.
Just spritzing a bit of water on the wood and letting most of it disappear is sufficient.
Another thing on them is storage.
Store the bottle with the cap down, as any air in the bottle will have a small amount of humidity in it and wil induce a slow cure.
Better to have it harden in hte bottom of the bottle than have it clog the nozzle...

I'm doing another kind of glue test myself. I'm seeing which ones go bad from not ever using them... Got to make something.
 
Great information Howie! BTW the Gorilla Glue block was soaked in water and wiped dry. The fact that it foamed told me it worked.

The acraglass & west systems were under the same clamp. Maybe its a mistake? But they had the same epoxy divit as everything else.

I checked the remaining ones with a 60X microscope.

JBWeld has a visible glue line
Gorilla glue has a slight line
Xtreme is barely visible

But DEVCON, E-120HP, and U-05FL have no glue lines at all, Completely squeezed. And yet they held. Also they are mid point in the bar. I'm impressed.

Steve
 
Sando said:
The Visual Test
JB Weld tho fails this test (in my opinion because it'll be really hard to make it seamless - the stuff is thick and has fillers.) I can't explain why only one side showed a seam. The wood was flat. Maybe it tilted a bit, 'cause it just doesn't thin out.
Click to expand...
fillers making it rock in the divot pneumatic pressure plays a part also in the divot. I'd say..

Dan Gray said:
one of the problems when over claming is when the two parts are not flat
you cause it to be it's own spring forcing it self off.
flexing type will be the best if used right I think because of expansion
do you know that aluminum expands almost at twice the rate as cast iron
I can only guess on other materials..mechanical is the way
but I see your point
but not sure what the point is if mechanical is best and the other is for sealing only.. :)
Click to expand...

Sando said:
No kidding, I've suffered from that too! That's the reason this test only has one clamping point for each block. See I've thought of many things for this test.
Click to expand...
other than, if the steel is cupped ( crown out from the wood) this will spring it still with one contact point on the clamp..

I'm glad to see the DEVCON holding up I didn't see is it the 5min or 30 min stuff?
 
Sando said:
BTW I'd appreciate questions about why, rather than "you should have". For example, "Why are their two holes in the bar?" Or "why are they all on the same bar?" Or, "what the heck is U-05FL?"
Click to expand...

OK, what the heck is U-05FL???

Craig
 
Loctite U-05FL Metal Bonder
Hysol® Two-Part Urethane Adhesives
Have High Impact Resistance and Highly Flexible Bonds

These two-part urethane adhesives cure at room temperature. They feature large gap fill, low temperature performance, long term UV resistance, and high oil and solvent resistance. Easily dispensed using the hand-held meter mix dispensing gun (415-260).

More stuff to read from Loctite:
Adhesive Sourcebook BIG download 4.8MB.
Design Guide for bonding metals. Another large file...
 
I love this test! Im on the edge of my seat! I have always liked JB Weld but that gray color turns me off. I add black powder to it. It does tend to be too thick and show the seams but sticks to steel great.

This is magazine quality material. Be sure to submit the test and results.

Thanks for all your trouble and expense and for sharing.
 
howiesatwork said:
Loctite U-05FL Metal Bonder
Hysol® Two-Part Urethane Adhesives
Have High Impact Resistance and Highly Flexible Bonds

These two-part urethane adhesives cure at room temperature. They feature large gap fill, low temperature performance, long term UV resistance, and high oil and solvent resistance. Easily dispensed using the hand-held meter mix dispensing gun (415-260).

Expensive.
Click to expand...


I like Dan's answer better! :)

Craig
 
Bruce Bump said:
I have always liked JB Weld but ..... I add black powder to it.
Click to expand...
You mean like potassium nitrate plus sulphur plus charcoal powder? Now THAT is a toture test!:eek:
 
RW I love it when we make educated guesses. I'm guessing you have knowledge and experience behind you <grin>.

Here's something I learned looking over the Loctite data sheets for E-120HP. (I don't know how universal the principles are and I'm sure it varies wildly....) When epoxy is hot it loses it's strength, but when it cools back down it's stronger? For example, when it's at 100c it looses half its strength. But if you leave it at 120c for 750 hours and then you cool it to 22c it tests at 130% strength. http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/HYSAE-120HP-EN.pdf

Is that weird or what. The other companies don't have this level of detail that I could find. That's why the 2 comercial products are both loctite.

Steve
 
Well, its an educated guesstimate. I really liked the Devcon stuff and used it for years but stopped for a couple reasons. One of the reasons is that it breaks down pretty easy when compared to some of the newer stuff. I found that heat (not just high oven high heat but desert/jungle heat) and moisture tended to loosen it up.

You can also pull handle scaled right off a knife by putting them in boiling water to break down the epoxy.

Based on that I think the washer with break down the Devcon.

I could be wrong though. :footinmou Should be interesting to see.
 
a resource for glue'rs:

"Because people have a need to glue things to other things"

www.thistothat.com

Home - has quick reference for best glues for various material combos
Links - other glue spots
Glue o'Month archive


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Oh here is just a little info just because. None of the products listed here are glues.

Glues are protein (sp?) based. All of the products used in this test are adhesives. Glues are almost never used anymore. Although I did make my own rice glue once, held pretty well.

Took a construction tech course in college. We spend an entire week on glues and adhesives. More than I ever wanted to know.
 
Hyper-Flex Anaerobic, Mid strenght Pipe Sealant test, primary results: (I couldnt buy camera this week, I wish I had and share :( )

There are many Anaerobic sealants around, like Loctite, Devcon etc. But this is the only available kind for me (made in England).

As its hardening time, 1 hour passed I de-clamped the samples. The samples were one corian, one ordinary pine wood, one D2 piece on a Carbon steel bar. All have sanded 80 grit, degreased with degreaser and green and cleaned with acetone and dried.

The adhesive had no visible glue-line on any sample. But the corian piece was loose after de-clamped.

Than I sanded them to see if it can resist the heat from grinding process. As I guessed after the bar was hot the wood sample dropped. But D2 stays there. Now I plan to test it in dish-washer.

As this product was designed to seal metal to metal these results were expected. Though the strenght of the bond at D2 sample and non-visible glue line suprises me. I guess this particular product is very useful for bolster and guard attachments, especially for kitchen knives as it is supposed to be waterproof.

Test for this "pipe sealant" continues.
 
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