Grimalkins Projects Thread

Grimalkin · Apr 18, 2016

So I am looking at a new file, I am taking the advice here and going with a Simonds multi-kut. This one here seems to be an "older" serial number than the newer ones, but really, should it be good for removing material? It looks like it features the new chip breaking cut.

Any advice you can give me would be much appreciated. I just won a bunch of axe heads on ebay, so now I need a real file to help me out.

300Six · Apr 19, 2016

Bottom of the plastic sleeve of that Simonds says 'made in USA'. Is that still possible or is this NOS?

Square_peg · Apr 19, 2016

NOS Multi-Kut. Thats just what you want.

Put a guard on it. Put a handle on it. And keep it clean.

Grimalkin · Apr 19, 2016

thanks guys, I've bought this one. Now I'm ordering a few handles from Beaver-tooth. I have a another question for you all. They have a Hudsons Bay 24" handle that I want to hang the "national" pattern plumb head on. The eye of the head is 1/16 wider than the handle specs they have (eye length is okay). Is that a big deal? I figure I can just hug it up the shoulder and it will be okay. Any (further) advise on this would be great. Thanks a lot for helping me out guys.

RICKOFF · Apr 19, 2016

300Six said:
Bottom of the plastic sleeve of that Simonds says 'made in USA'. Is that still possible or is this NOS?

Yes, they still make these I was on their website not too long ago and are still for sale. I have one that I bought 30 years ago to file Formica edges and it works great but have never used on steel also Simonds has a lot of good file info on the site.

cityofthesouth · Apr 20, 2016

Grimalkin said:
thanks guys, I've bought this one. Now I'm ordering a few handles from Beaver-tooth. I have a another question for you all. They have a Hudsons Bay 24" handle that I want to hang the "national" pattern plumb head on. The eye of the head is 1/16 wider than the handle specs they have (eye length is okay). Is that a big deal? I figure I can just hug it up the shoulder and it will be okay. Any (further) advise on this would be great. Thanks a lot for helping me out guys.

Due to my own haste, short temper, stupidity, I sheered a sliver of wood off the back of the tongue of an axe handle once while removing it from the head. To repair it I sanded a nice flat spot on the rear of the tongue, then glued a new sliver in place. Of course then I cut the kerf in the new sliver and fit it back into the axe head as usual. It has worked out fine and I don't see why it wouldn't work as a method to purposefully increase the size of the tongue for a larger eye. For the side-to-side issue you might be able to do something similar or it may work out as is. Hard to say on that part.

ETA: I did that thing where I replied without having a totally relevant point. IF it turns out to be 1/16th, no problem. I wouldn't be shocked to find a boys axe handle is way too small, and so in that case, revert to what I was saying above.

Grimalkin · Apr 20, 2016

cityofthesouth said:
Due to my own haste, short temper, stupidity, I sheered a sliver of wood off the back of the tongue of an axe handle once while removing it from the head. To repair it I sanded a nice flat spot on the rear of the tongue, then glued a new sliver in place. Of course then I cut the kerf in the new sliver and fit it back into the axe head as usual. It has worked out fine and I don't see why it wouldn't work as a method to purposefully increase the size of the tongue for a larger eye. For the side-to-side issue you might be able to do something similar or it may work out as is. Hard to say on that part.

ETA: I did that thing where I replied without having a totally relevant point. IF it turns out to be 1/16th, no problem. I wouldn't be shocked to find a boys axe handle is way too small, and so in that case, revert to what I was saying above.

Thanks cot, so I've hung 3 axes now, and two of them have not been perfectly lined up with the handle, this is something I am concerned about. I ended up going with a full size eye so I can shave it down, but man, this really is an art hanging these heads. I really haven't gotten "the hang" of it yet

Hoping to tackle a couple more before I do my 24" handle, I want to get more experience first so I don't screw up that one.

Square_peg · Apr 20, 2016

Grimalkin said:
Thanks cot, so I've hung 3 axes now, and two of them have not been perfectly lined up with the handle, this is something I am concerned about. I ended up going with a full size eye so I can shave it down, but man, this really is an art hanging these heads. I really haven't gotten "the hang" of it yet Hoping to tackle a couple more before I do my 24" handle, I want to get more experience first so I don't screw up that one.

There really is a lot to hanging an axe well. No one appreciates the value of an excellent hang until they've learned it themselves by trial and error.

Grimalkin · Apr 21, 2016

do you guys feel that this edge was just too thin?

I have done a fair bit of work with this one, mostly small diameter stuff, splitting, etc. I have experienced a couple chips, and just yesterday this one came up, a medium size chunk which really surprised me! I am just working on maple mostly.

Good thing i am getting my new file and was planning to re-grind the edge on this one to make the heel more back than the toe. I think the chip will be taken out in the process, but I am really surprised by this, I am assuming I put too fine an edge on this, what do you guys think?

Square_peg · Apr 21, 2016

Maybe a little thin at the very tip but generally it looks very good. A hard dry knot can put a chip in an axe. A softer axe will roll instead of chipping. Pick your poison.

Grimalkin · Apr 27, 2016

First of all, thanks for all the input from you seasoned axe vets so far on all my questions, I appreciate it very much!

300Six said:
Grimalkin, don't 'go right to town' on this cosmetically unless you're praying for it to sell for big bucks on flea bay and/or are merely wishing to impress your friends. Whether it ever gets used or not, a light misting with WD-40 every now and again will keep this looking like the day you bought it, and 'shining it all up' to look like a mirror, or a brand new head, isn't going to make it chop any better.
Whoever had it before you (novice chopper or a naive seller?) used a grinder to make a thorough mess of the blade.

Ya that edge is a mess, no big deal for the Simonds

I don't plan to re-sell this ever, but I do want it to look decent, I hope to pass this onto my kids or grand kids some day (it will be a user, probably my pack axe). I took a hand sander to it today, and I wanted to get some opinions on what you guys think. The small little micro pits are more annoying than the bigger ones... and I am a little concerned about rust forming in those pits over time.

Original condition when it arrived:

hand power sander with 40 grit for about 60 minutes total.

A part of me really does want a nice smooth head, it wouldn't take that much work with the 40 grit I don't think. But I do want to keep that strike looking good. Would be okay to sand around it? The bit needs much more sanding than the post, if I just sanded the bit would that be an issue with taking off too much steel up front? I wouldn't think so, but I want to get advice on that before I do it. Thanks.

Also, I would like to know more info on how this axe was made, the steel is folded over on the bottom, something I haven't seen before, is this normal? I assume this is how they made them back then, and the finish was sort of rough.

Square_peg · Apr 28, 2016

I would leave that just as it is. It looks great. Just put an edge on it and hang it.

If you feel ambitious then shorten the center and heel of the axe to match the toe. It'll look nice and chop a little better.

Old Axeman · Apr 30, 2016

Grimalkin- I would not try to sand out all the pits. What I do is use a hard pigmented paste wax like Briwax, or Trewax on the axe head. The wax protects the pits from rust. The pigmented wax, I like ebony, dries to a dark color and does not leave little white wax spots. Many years ago, when I was a competitive chopper, I had a wounderful conversation with Arden Cogar Sr and Ron Hartell, two of the all time greats, about what wax should be put on what grind pattern for what wood. Ron not only carried a case of different axes but also a large variety of different waxes. Pigmented paste wax also is a great finish for wood for the same reason.

Grimalkin · Apr 30, 2016

Thanks guys, I think I'll leave it with pits. I still have yet to get all the rust from the pits, need to get a wire wheel. Funny you mention the wax, I had an idea to melt beeswax onto the pits, let it harden, then buff the excess off. Would that be the same? Thanks guys.

I reshaped my Kelly works edge with the new simonds, wow, that thing cuts 10x better than my Nicholson. I tried it on that little Plumb hatchet, and still, I could barely cut into it. I am starting to think that hatchet can't be sharpened to its full.potential, the simonds glides off the steel.

Old Axeman · Apr 30, 2016

The beeswax will work fine. The waxes I mentioned are a combo of beeswax and carnauba. Carnauba is a verk hard wax, so I like the combo.

Square_peg · May 1, 2016

The difficulty you' re having with the Plumb is probably just the oxidation layer. Getthrough it in one small area and then work out from there.

Grimalkin · May 1, 2016

Square_peg said:
The difficulty you' re having with the Plumb is probably just the oxidation layer. Getthrough it in one small area and then work out from there.

I tried to file it for at least 20 minutes, it made very small shavings, nothing compared to my Kelly. The shavings were more like dust. My Nicholson couldn't even get any shavings.

How long does it take to get through oxidation?

Square_peg · May 1, 2016

Should be able to get through it in a minute or two. Try varying the speed and/or pressure. How is your axe secured when you're filing it?

Square_peg · May 1, 2016

And are you keeping your file clean? Taking the file card to it every minute or so?

rjdankert · May 3, 2016

Old Axeman said:
. . . The waxes I mentioned are a combo of beeswax and carnauba. Carnauba is a verk hard wax, so I like the combo.

Interesting. I've never thought of using carnauba wax on tools. Even though I've used paste versions and pure carnauba for quite awhile. I think it would be a lot better than your garden variety paste wax.

Note: readers who are familiar with pure carnauba wax - scroll on.

Carnauba is indeed a very hard wax. Pure carnauba wax is typically applied with a buffing wheel because of this. First charge the wheel. Then apply:

I don't know the effect of pure carnauba on an axe in a competition, but it seems like it's worth a try just for protection.

Bob