GSO 20 request thread

It would be nice to see it with a bit less of a curve, closer to a 2" blade width, and some fullers to keep the weight down. Could get some really deep bites having that wider blade to taper the edge thickness down.
 
It would be nice to see it with a bit less of a curve, closer to a 2" blade width, and some fullers to keep the weight down. Could get some really deep bites having that wider blade to taper the edge thickness down.

I was thinking the same thing about dropping the sweep and deleting the end taper. I beefed the blade height up to 1.75" and it is parallel with the spine until the tip taper. The handle is around 1" in height and about 0.75" in width. I didn't make the second scale do to laziness..

 
I was thinking the same thing about dropping the sweep and deleting the end taper. I beefed the blade height up to 1.75" and it is parallel with the spine until the tip taper. The handle is around 1" in height and about 0.75" in width. I didn't make the second scale do to laziness..


WOW... talk about a very nice design !
Maybe a slight guard as well ?
 
WOW... talk about a very nice design !
Maybe a slight guard as well ?

Thanks!

The reason I didn't add fullers and guards has to do with costs. Ideally this would be a sword that could be made with relatively few steps/pieces. The "Steel weight" right now comes in at 2.34 lbs, @ .25" stock, for what is a pretty beefy blade, and more weight could be dropped if the thickness or grind lines changed. Additionally I felt like since this was mostly for chopping, that a guard while cool looking would be superfluous to the purpose, IE its most likely to fly out of your hand!!! :) :)

I figured for now I'd keep it simple to maybe pique Guy's interest, and maybe down the road a deluxe model could be made too?

One thing I thought about was to flare the base of the handle to prevent slipping...but i think aesthetically I'd rather just texture the handle. But like the other tweaks it would inevitably come down to personal preference.
 
I was thinking the same thing about dropping the sweep and deleting the end taper. I beefed the blade height up to 1.75" and it is parallel with the spine until the tip taper. The handle is around 1" in height and about 0.75" in width. I didn't make the second scale do to laziness..


I'll say it again. You really are talented.

That looks great! And is exactly what this thread needed.
 
I'll say it again. You really are talented.

That looks great! And is exactly what this thread needed.

Thanks! I'd love to tinker one day at making a few, but at this point the best I can do is offer to provide all the solidworks guy would need, all he'd have to do is sharpen them!! ;) ;) I even added in his hidden lanyard hole :D. I should add that the blade is 20" and the handle is 10" as per the original sketch, just a deeper blade with less upsweep. I wanted to keep the handles generally rounded to allow for a multitude of hold positions, both one and two hands.
 
Thanks! I'd love to tinker one day at making a few, but at this point the best I can do is offer to provide all the solidworks guy would need, all he'd have to do is sharpen them!! ;) ;) I even added in his hidden lanyard hole :D. I should add that the blade is 20" and the handle is 10" as per the original sketch, just a deeper blade with less upsweep. I wanted to keep the handles generally rounded to allow for a multitude of hold positions, both one and two hands.

I noticed the hidden lanyard hole. Nice touch.

Very cool that you're able to estimate weight based off the design. I know you mentioned the fuller was left out to keep the design simpler and keep costs down, but do you have a rough idea what the weight savings would be? I'm guessing may be equal to a 3/8-1/2" dia x 8-12" rod.

Are you involved with mechanical engineering professionally or where does the Solidworks experience come from? Just curious if you don't mind.
 
I may have calculated wrong, but it looks like a fuller that would remove the volume of a 3/8" diameter by 10" long rod would remove ~0.313 lbs.
 
I added a .25 tall by .1 deep full length fuller to both sides and it dropped the weight to 2.1 lbs (its using plain carbon steel @ 0.28179 pounds per cubic inch, instead of cpm 3v which is .279). I think adding some holes in the handle would drop more weight, ill mess around with balance points a bit too (had to look up micarta density) as it is without the fuller the COG is in a pretty good spot. If we wanted it more tip forward, we could mill out the tang


the fuller actually doesn't move the COG a ton, but does look cool... I rendered it a little to give better shading:


And to answer your question yup, Mech-E that does a lot of design work. I actually applied to a few knife companies a while back, but lacking "knife design" experience I think held me back.
 
Thanks guys for the kind words. I stayed a little late to grab a few more fancy views and added the second scale. As if Guy and Ellie don't have enough to worry about with us lot...







This design is def more of a "chopper" and the hand sketch the more "elegant sword" I think for 20" long a chopper style just has a nice "bull dog" style look.

This was just a quick draft design as well, I think the radius transition between the handle and blade could be tighter and a few other tweeks...if ever this goes any where I could put some more effort into it...
 
Maybe the ricasso could extend into a slight guard ?
Just an idea.

On another note: when is the pre-order :D
 
Maybe the ricasso could extend into a slight guard ?
Just an idea.

On another note: when is the pre-order :D

part of me wants to price out blanks from a local machine shop(maybe i have sent an email already...)just to see what a low volume order would be...but then i'd still be in for heat treat, grinding(i have no equipment), sharpening and any type of "finish" work... or! maybe Guy will release the beast as a new years surprise!!
 
redwood! You've been holding out on us :)

You have some serious creative, design and computer skills. Those pics changed my life a little. I absolutely love it. When I was rambling earlier in this thread, your design is exactly what I was trying to describe. I absolutely love it.
 
redwood! You've been holding out on us :)

You have some serious creative, design and computer skills. Those pics changed my life a little. I absolutely love it. When I was rambling earlier in this thread, your design is exactly what I was trying to describe. I absolutely love it.

Thanks silver! I really enjoy designing, and knives are clearly a passion of sorts. I will try and pop in early tomorrow and see if i cant clean a few things up. I wish i was better at applying a 3-d texture to compound surfaces so i could make the handle more grippy/dynamic, but it might skew it in the wrong design direction from what a GSO should be. I will also try and add an aesthetically pleasing sharpening choil and clean up the transition area...I wish i could make it a spear point to fit the survive theme, but i think it would turn out forced.... i figure until we get a definitive HELL NO!! its fun to dream up :)

I have the blade thickness on this at 0.25" but the thickest gso is the 12 @ 0.215" I wonder if it would help the odds of it getting made if we switch to a standard survive sheet thickness?
 
Either way is probably okay for today's needs.

When this takes hold, the final design will be adjusted and fine tuned by Guy based on all of his knowledge and experience as to what will perform the best and also be economical for him to be able to manufacture. I wouldn't complain at all personally if it was .215" thick or maybe even .187" thick.
 
Thanks silver! I really enjoy designing, and knives are clearly a passion of sorts. I will try and pop in early tomorrow and see if i cant clean a few things up. I wish i was better at applying a 3-d texture to compound surfaces so i could make the handle more grippy/dynamic, but it might skew it in the wrong design direction from what a GSO should be. I will also try and add an aesthetically pleasing sharpening choil and clean up the transition area...I wish i could make it a spear point to fit the survive theme, but i think it would turn out forced.... i figure until we get a definitive HELL NO!! its fun to dream up :)

I have the blade thickness on this at 0.25" but the thickest gso is the 12 @ 0.215" I wonder if it would help the odds of it getting made if we switch to a standard survive sheet thickness?

Either way is probably okay for today's needs.

When this takes hold, the final design will be adjusted and fine tuned by Guy based on all of his knowledge and experience as to what will perform the best and also be economical for him to be able to manufacture. I wouldn't complain at all personally if it was .215" thick or maybe even .187" thick.

I'd be totally satisfies with anything close to your design, redwood. If course any changes that make it more feasible are especially fine with me. I love the spear point idea!
 
Yea, unfortunately making things more feasible also means less aggressive looking...so i decided to cool my heals for a bit. for those interested though, dropping the thickness to 0.215 drops the weight by ~0.3 lbs. I changed the plunge line to make it less angled and didn't care for the look personally, despite it being more practical both to make and also use.. If I modded it to be a spear point, I think I would also want to flatten the spine upslift a bit as well, otherwise its just going to look weird...
 
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