The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
It’d be my pleasure, brother. Same for your neck of the woods. I spent some time around that big ole country of yours as well, and found it to be lovely. Though I was a good distance from you, up around Mackay. Pics will be forthcoming.Thank you my friend.
I'm glad to see you like your A. Wright Lambsfoot. I'd be very interested to see some more pics of your Lambsfoot knife out in Taipei, and the Taiwanese countryside, if you should get a chance.
Great to see this thread so active, there's been some excellent discussion points brought up too - seems I have a bit of catching up to do.
Stag antlers and cattle and sheep horn actually have some interesting differences, Duncan.
Antlers are exclusive to cervids - the deer family. They grow and are cast off annually. The antlers are initially covered with living tissue - the 'velvet' - which transports blood and nutrients to the bony core. The blood vessels are so loaded with calcium, that they eventually narrow and close, as the antlers grow and harden. This causes the itching and discomfort that stags relieve by thrashing and scraping the remnant threads of velvet off on saplings and small trees. All other things being equal, the stags' antlers will increase in size each year, until they reach a peak - which for Sambar occurs around 10-12 years of age - and then they will 'go back', the antlers becoming smaller or misshapen and malformed in subsequent years.
Some interesting things, not commonly known about deer antler:
As well as reflecting the age and genetics of the animal, the antlers reflect the quality of feed (or lack of it) from two years earlier, not the previous season. This was very evident after the devastating Black Saturday bushfires here in Victoria. Although many Sambar deer and other wild animals died in the fires, two years later, there were many superb antlered Sambar being seen and taken by hunters, due to the minerals deposited in the soil and new plant growth.
If a stag receives an injury or has a malady on one side of it's body, the antler on the opposite side of it's head will be misshapen, the next time it grows. Antlers do not contain keratin.
It has recently been found that antlers - specifically moose antlers - may also act as parabolic antennae of a sort, cupping and capturing sound waves.
Horn on the other hand, is a permanent structure of keratin and proteins over a bony core. They are not shed like deer antlers, and true horns are generally found on cattle, sheep, goats and antelope. I understand the translucent horn that is prized for knife scales is the young material, near the base of the horn.
Horn, like tortoiseshell, is slightly thermoplastic - it can be shaped while warm, although it can apparently display a tendency to 'want' to return to it's previous curved shape over time. For this reason, I didn't wash my Guardians knife in warm, soapy water as I usually do with new traditional knives. I've been looking over various internet tips on maintaining horn, given it's been used for many years for knife handles, walking stick handles and ferrules, ornaments etc. I can't really add anything to the good advice already given, so in summary, this seems to be the consensus:
Like wood, remember this was an active, living material, and will continue to act in that way in response to environmental conditions. So don't leave it in direct sunlight for long periods, check it fairly regularly, if you are not intending to carry or use it, and periodically remoisturise it. I've used mineral oil fairly freely on mine, then later a couple of coats of a beeswax and hard carnauba oil mix to lock in the moisture. I'll probably repeat this process every month or so, for a while. Interestingly, considering we have discussed Ren wax for horn before, it is apparently not recommended for this material, as it also contains a solvent, which supposedly can hasten drying. I think I will look for some Lanox, or Hooflex to use eventually, instead of mineral oil. Jojoba oil, is apparently also recommended as it does not go rancid, like some other vegetable oils. Also, as r8shell said, it's actually a good thing for the longevity of the horn covers to be continually handled and used, and absorb warmth and moisture from your hand.
Regarding sheep horn, I think there's a big difference between domestic sheep horn, which is probably not used much as a premium handle material for a reason, and wild sheep horn. I understand that in the US, when 'sheep' horn is referred to as a handle material on custom knives, it is probably from one of the four American wild sheep species. Considering the tremendous impacts taken by this horn when you see these sheep sparring, I wouldn't be surprised if it is in another order of strength and toughness, compared to domestic rams' horn, as a handle material. I once asked the owner of Blade Gallery and Epicurean Edge in Seattle, what he would recommend for a super tough hunting knife handle, and he said 'sheep horn', without skipping a beat. I was surprised at this choice, and questioned him further - and he said that the interlocking growth layers formed a supremely tough material.
Personally, I'm a big fan of the ebony handled Lambsfoot knives, as you all probably guessed - it's an extremely durable and attractive material, to me. I'd love to see some of that intensely marbled ebony, similar to those superb examples Lambertiana showed, in a Lambsfoot some day…
(I should also say that given the long, hot summers and occasionally damp winters here in southern Australia, my Ox horn Lambsfoot has been fine, as long as I've continued moisturising it.)
Great pics too my friend 
Great stuff Chin and a lot of sense too.
I remember soon after joining here, a discussion with Bernard Levine about horn. From what I recall, he showed an English knife from the 1820s in excellent shape, displaying no shrink or warp. I noted that modern day horn knives seem unable to emulate this. He too was puzzled by it and suspected that there may well have been techiques in curing horn that have now unfortunately been lost. Rather along the lines of Walrus hides on wheels for crocus finish. Another possibility, it seems to me, may be extinct breeds of cattle-very different from our modern day herds, which yielded superior horn, or even the amount of drugs&hormones given to latter day cattle impacting on horn quality?
Nevertheless, my limited experience shows me that relative humidity is an absolute key-factor. If certain branches can detect water as in divining, then horn can quickly detect lack of moisture in the air. Stag and bone don't fancy dry air much either but they tolerate it much better than horn which is intolerant. Here in the Arctic (Finland) the air becomes extremely dry outdoors as the temperature drops into the big minuses, meanwhile indoors is usually about 22c in homes and workplaces, shirtsleeves or less and that too is dry under 10%. it's no use turning the heat down or opening the window as more cold dry air enters. Much like in desert climes. The type of building can impact too, an old wooden house like I have in the country breathes more and is damper naturally so I keep the horns out there in winter-time as the relative humidity is higher. Modern houses or blocks of flats are always drier, bad news for horn!
I use a humidifier at home and in the office at work, so quite a lot of litres of water get pumped out a day. I find I seldom have sore throats or colds, less dry eyes and the natural knives and furniture appreciate it. An old Laguiole I have which was bought nearly 30 years ago and I think had been in the shop a good 10 is horn and this too dislikes dry, you can feel the liners appear when it's dry. It swells back if you get 25% or more humidity. I've found Coconut Oil a good moisturizer for knives and it makes the handles look great too. Of course, CARRYING a horn knife helps keep it hydrated as your sweat does it a treat
In Sheffield (and I would think in other cutlery centres), there were once scores of firms which specialised in providing horn for the cutlery trade, so I imagine they knew their onions, so to speak 
Great to see this thread so active, there's been some excellent discussion points brought up too - seems I have a bit of catching up to do.
Stag antlers and cattle and sheep horn actually have some interesting differences, Duncan.
Antlers are exclusive to cervids - the deer family. They grow and are cast off annually. The antlers are initially covered with living tissue - the 'velvet' - which transports blood and nutrients to the bony core. The blood vessels are so loaded with calcium, that they eventually narrow and close, as the antlers grow and harden. This causes the itching and discomfort that stags relieve by thrashing and scraping the remnant threads of velvet off on saplings and small trees. All other things being equal, the stags' antlers will increase in size each year, until they reach a peak - which for Sambar occurs around 10-12 years of age - and then they will 'go back', the antlers becoming smaller or misshapen and malformed in subsequent years.
Some interesting things, not commonly known about deer antler:
As well as reflecting the age and genetics of the animal, the antlers reflect the quality of feed (or lack of it) from two years earlier, not the previous season. This was very evident after the devastating Black Saturday bushfires here in Victoria. Although many Sambar deer and other wild animals died in the fires, two years later, there were many superb antlered Sambar being seen and taken by hunters, due to the minerals deposited in the soil and new plant growth.
If a stag receives an injury or has a malady on one side of it's body, the antler on the opposite side of it's head will be misshapen, the next time it grows. Antlers do not contain keratin.
It has recently been found that antlers - specifically moose antlers - may also act as parabolic antennae of a sort, cupping and capturing sound waves.
Horn on the other hand, is a permanent structure of keratin and proteins over a bony core. They are not shed like deer antlers, and true horns are generally found on cattle, sheep, goats and antelope. I understand the translucent horn that is prized for knife scales is the young material, near the base of the horn.
Horn, like tortoiseshell, is slightly thermoplastic - it can be shaped while warm, although it can apparently display a tendency to 'want' to return to it's previous curved shape over time. For this reason, I didn't wash my Guardians knife in warm, soapy water as I usually do with new traditional knives. I've been looking over various internet tips on maintaining horn, given it's been used for many years for knife handles, walking stick handles and ferrules, ornaments etc. I can't really add anything to the good advice already given, so in summary, this seems to be the consensus:
Like wood, remember this was an active, living material, and will continue to act in that way in response to environmental conditions. So don't leave it in direct sunlight for long periods, check it fairly regularly, if you are not intending to carry or use it, and periodically remoisturise it. I've used mineral oil fairly freely on mine, then later a couple of coats of a beeswax and hard carnauba oil mix to lock in the moisture. I'll probably repeat this process every month or so, for a while. Interestingly, considering we have discussed Ren wax for horn before, it is apparently not recommended for this material, as it also contains a solvent, which supposedly can hasten drying. I think I will look for some Lanox, or Hooflex to use eventually, instead of mineral oil. Jojoba oil, is apparently also recommended as it does not go rancid, like some other vegetable oils. Also, as r8shell said, it's actually a good thing for the longevity of the horn covers to be continually handled and used, and absorb warmth and moisture from your hand.
Regarding sheep horn, I think there's a big difference between domestic sheep horn, which is probably not used much as a premium handle material for a reason, and wild sheep horn. I understand that in the US, when 'sheep' horn is referred to as a handle material on custom knives, it is probably from one of the four American wild sheep species. Considering the tremendous impacts taken by this horn when you see these sheep sparring, I wouldn't be surprised if it is in another order of strength and toughness, compared to domestic rams' horn, as a handle material. I once asked the owner of Blade Gallery and Epicurean Edge in Seattle, what he would recommend for a super tough hunting knife handle, and he said 'sheep horn', without skipping a beat. I was surprised at this choice, and questioned him further - and he said that the interlocking growth layers formed a supremely tough material.
Personally, I'm a big fan of the ebony handled Lambsfoot knives, as you all probably guessed - it's an extremely durable and attractive material, to me. I'd love to see some of that intensely marbled ebony, similar to those superb examples Lambertiana showed, in a Lambsfoot some day…
(I should also say that given the long, hot summers and occasionally damp winters here in southern Australia, my Ox horn Lambsfoot has been fine, as long as I've continued moisturising it.)
Nevertheless, my limited experience shows me that relative humidity is an absolute key-factor. If certain branches can detect water as in divining, then horn can quickly detect lack of moisture in the air. Stag and bone don't fancy dry air much either but they tolerate it much better than horn which is intolerant. Here in the Arctic (Finland) the air becomes extremely dry outdoors as the temperature drops into the big minuses, meanwhile indoors is usually about 22c in homes and workplaces, shirtsleeves or less and that too is dry under 10%. it's no use turning the heat down or opening the window as more cold dry air enters. Much like in desert climes. The type of building can impact too, an old wooden house like I have in the country breathes more and is damper naturally so I keep the horns out there in winter-time as the relative humidity is higher. Modern houses or blocks of flats are always drier, bad news for horn!
I use a humidifier at home and in the office at work, so quite a lot of litres of water get pumped out a day. I find I seldom have sore throats or colds, less dry eyes and the natural knives and furniture appreciate it. An old Laguiole I have which was bought nearly 30 years ago and I think had been in the shop a good 10 is horn and this too dislikes dry, you can feel the liners appear when it's dry. It swells back if you get 25% or more humidity. I've found Coconut Oil a good moisturizer for knives and it makes the handles look great too. Of course, CARRYING a horn knife helps keep it hydrated as your sweat does it a treat
So, it was a nice day to receive some kindness in the form of a special care package from our friend Cambertree, full of wonderful and wonderfully useful items Thanks mate 
I hope you are feeling better, Jack!!
A platypus can raise one's spirit, No??
Is that a strop under the critter?
Yes, for sure! It is indeed Charlie, a really nice one. Chin's package contained some great stuff Great episode of 'Flog It' today from Sheffield's Cutler's Hall, featuring the famed Joseph Rogers 'Norfolk' knife, a Georgian cutlery case with beautiful pistol handled (Dutch Slipper) knives and silver spoons, lovely paintings featuring scenes of industrial Sheffield and a lot of interesting Sheffield folders. Gets no better than that!
.....If you haven't already seen it Jack I'm sure it will cheer you up. All the best mate.
I remember going in the Cutler's Hall many times when I was a kid, in those days it was used for all manner of events, and you could just walk into the Reception to see the Norfolk Knife and some of the other treasures. Today, the place is strictly 'invitation only' Very nice Platypus that
Sorry to hear of your troubles, Jack. Hopefully your work load will lighten up and your nerves will give you some respite!
I took Rosie out for a glamour shot today.
Beautiful pic of Rosie my friend 
I'm going to have this 'un in my pocket again 
Thanks for the good wishes too 
Coffee time and a snack chicken breast with bacon And mozzarella. Enjoy your day everyone.
All of my Lambfoots
Top 2 are A. Wrights /// Bottom 2 are Taylors Eye Witness
Harry
Those old 'uns take some beating don't they?
That's an impressive flock of lambs, Jack!!
That one was a gift from Brother Bonzodog A very stylish A.Wright Lambsfoot with walnut covers and a file-worked back-spring. Here with me in Sheffield 
All of my Lambfoots
Top 2 are A. Wrights /// Bottom 2 are Taylors Eye Witness
Harry
